Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I recently purchased my second R33 GTS-t. The previous owner had done some nice work and it came with an Apexi boost control kit (with PFC). When i put it on the dyno we discovered that the vacuum lines had been cut and plugged, no doubt because the BC had shit itself and the alleged tuner took the easy way and just relied on the spring from the ext wastegate (progate 48mm). I have ordered a new BC (Blitz spec R).

My question is how much difference will it make to the car's performance eg. coming on boost etc when compared to the current setup?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215196-new-boost-controller/
Share on other sites

should be no different if you buy a decent BC and tune it the same way the previous owner had it. most boost controllers only hold boost, alter the maximum boost you want, and the duty cycle (which is what you want to control when your boost comes on).

point is, if you buy a good boost controller then you should have the same performance when set up right.

ofcourse, because a boost controller will let you achieve your desired boost level when ever you want and will hold it at that level throughout your rev range. if you did not have a boost controller (i will use stock ecu and stock solenoid) then your boost graph (once you get a dyno) will be wavy say - it goes up to 10psi, then slowly dips off to say 8psi and goes back up n down. with a boost controller you should get a much flatter line so it will read 10psi and maybe up and down a little by say 0.3psi.

stock ecu builds up your boost slower to achieve a more fuel efficient drive i.e normal driving between 2k rpm and 4k rpm and will have a low boost setting say 7psi for that little bit of extra kick say when you accelerating out of a corner or up a hill. when you flat foot your car, the stock ecu knows you want more power at higher revs and boosts your car up to 10psi (i believe by grounding your solenoid to open up the actuator i could be wrong i do not quite remember).

hope that helps. at the end of the day - get a boost controller.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See my post here If you put the Haltech in, you won't have to worry about any of that. And, in case you're worrying about my lack of credentials in doing your exact swap, I put a Neo in an R32. There has never been a stock boost solenoid near my car and the Neo's ECU has never cared. Nor should it, because it is electronically impossible for it to care.
    • That's 100% wrong. Did you wire in the boost sensor? If you did not, then that is 101% your answer. Neo ECUs do suck a bit.
    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
×
×
  • Create New...