Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I am bored at work today, so I figured I will show you all what I have been up to. Its a locost (lotus 7 replica) with an sr20de (one day it will be +T) with the silvia rear end welded up to it. Next will be front suspension and steering, then I get the engineer to take a look and make sure it wont fall apart at 100kph :D

Rear1.jpg

IMG_0672.jpg

IMG_0648.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215277-messing-about-with-a-welder/
Share on other sites

im curious about the use of the RHS - how does tyhis material go in the view of engineering? i whould have thought that a seamless material would be required.

Look great and im sure you have checked that out, im just curious for more info if you can pass it along.

Thanks guy's, there will be some more bracing in the front once I have figure out the front suspension - the book I am using is the haynes roadster, which uses ford sierra parts, so I have opted for nissan - like a sane person. The engineers dont generally have a problem with rhs, the clubman chassis usually pass torsion tests easily (forget that you are the crumple zone for a minute tho) there would be somewhere in the region of 200+ hours work so far (Im a bit of a noob) so I am glad its relitivly easy to work with :D

Oh, and that close to the ground 100kph should feel like warp speed - I'll be needing some of Clarksons special brave pills (and hopefully scaring the crap out of passengers)

if done properly can these things be road registered?

yes. i've seen a few of these things driving around on the road, although they arent very common, you can get them registered. theres a company down here that builds them with LS1's up front. they want like $120k for one though....

FFS i cant remember what company it is though, someone jog my memory for me

Thanks for the comments guys :)

Its elfin who build the V8 ones, which is owned by Walkinshaw now I think.

I am hoping to register the car, its a lot of extra mucking around, but will be worth it. You need to fill out the appropriate paperwork for transport (Individually Constructor Vehicle), and get an engineer to check it out at various points during the build.

Stephen, you can get plans for an extra wide chassis, the McSorley 442 plans are popular in america (4" wider, 4" longer and 2" taller) you can always just make them bigger to suit yourself, but you wont be able to register it with a CA18 engine, they need to be reasonably recent to satisfy ADR's, and which years depend on which state you are in, but the earliest is 97, is why I am using an sr20. Also you might want to consider what category of racing you want to compete in (which you will :) ), with the 1.8 turbo, you will be in with 3l 6's and the like - which is why the 4age is popular, puts you down with the 1.6l categories - they are cheap, and there is a lot of knowledge about them www.ozclubbies.com is a good place to start.

That and the other advice I can offer is dont underestimate how immense the project is, it will consume nearly all of your spare time (make sure the significant other is ok with the project) and you will loose motivation at different points, so catching up with other builders is handy

Hey all, I am bored at work today, so I figured I will show you all what I have been up to. Its a locost (lotus 7 replica) with an sr20de (one day it will be +T) with the silvia rear end welded up to it. Next will be front suspension and steering, then I get the engineer to take a look and make sure it wont fall apart at 100kph :P

Rear1.jpg

Well this may appear to be a random question, but is perhaps relevant:

What is the mechanical ratio for the suspension, ie how many millimetres or wheel articulation equals how many millimetres of spring travel?

It is easy to test get a fat bastard (or dog) to sit on the diff. Measure the change in ride height & the change in spring height. Divide one by the other. If you get alot of wheel movement for a small amount of spring travel the car can be a bastard of a thing to set up.

Hey Tom - I didnt know I could do it either untill I tried! Seriously, I had never used a welder before. I practiced all saturday morning and started building in the afternoon. (I did an adult ed course tho, so it wasnt completely blind)

and in regards to suspension travel, my calculations are 2.5:1 wheel to shock, and from memory, I measured that to be pretty close... Sounds like I will be having some fun then (always stay positive) at least the shocks are double adjustable (twice as much for me to stuff up) - Why I chose to do it this way is because the shocks were dirt cheap - around $60 a piece from america, or the propper ones run around $1200'ish per set - works on my beer & pizza budget

They work quite nicely when I jump up and down on them, as far as I can figure out they are rising rate (I am happy to be shown otherwise, the whole project is a learning experience for me) they are quite compliant to start with, but as hard as I jump on it, I cant get to more than about half way of travel on the shock. I have never been in a clubman, and I have no idea how his will actually handle, so I am as curious as hell to find out - hopefully one day soon I will be able to let you all know, and with any luck it will be good news :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don’t really have any ideas how to set the timing on the CAS 😂, sounds like the top, sounds like it maybe misfiring as well as ticking,  got the box sorted 😌, must of been a air bubble on the clutch side
    • Use a 2' length of hose (that's 2 foot, not 2 inches) as a stethoscope to localise the source of the ticking. From cam covers? From exhaust or turbo manifold gasket? From injectors? From lower down in the engine? Etc. Use a timing light to set the timing. Put Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the box. It's not the very best thing for the box, but it will take a box that refuses to engage a gear with other oil, and make it engage a gear. I had to put it in when I installed the R33 box I have in my car. It would not select ANY gear when running. Smurf jizz made it work. That was >10 years ago and I still use it. I'm stuck with it now. Failing that - rebuild the box.
    • Well done Duncan. The fuel tank bulkhead lid is also in great condition (some of mine were stuffed). These are now out of production and good ones like that are becoming hard to come by.
    • Wow that's a steal, you've done well there. 
    • Exterior LEDs R34 2Dr R34 4Dr Position Lamp T10 T10 Winker front T20S T20S side T10 T10 rear T20S S25S150 Anti-hyfla relay TYPE3 TYPE3 tail T10 T20W Stop Lamps T20W T20W High Mount T16 T16 back T16 T20S number T10 T10 trunk T10 T10 Interior LED Item No.     Map Lamp BA9S single-sided     Room Lamps T10×31     Trunk Lamp T10     meter Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     Liquid crystal section T6.5 pedestal     Winker T6.5 pedestal     High Beam T6.5 pedestal     3 SERIES METER Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     air conditioner Early Liquid Crystal T3     Late LCD T4.2 Short     button T4.2 Middle     Hazard SW T3 Pedestal Short     Keyring T5     Cigar Socket T5
×
×
  • Create New...