Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Had a idea that I got from an autospeed article not long ago.

I have noticed my intercooler piping is 2.5" and I have a FMIC, so the piping runs back across the front of the radiator, then back over the engine. I have touched the piping three times after going for good drives, in coolish weather, and noticed that once the piping gets into the engine bay, it turn HOT, so hot that you can't leave your hand on it for more than 5 seconds, which is bad for performance.

I have also noticed a beer/stubbie cooler would fit almost perfectly over 2.5" piping.

I'm thinking of buying approx. 10-12 of these and shoving them over the cooler pipes, total cost ~20-25 bucks.

Thoughts everyone???

Fixxxer

Edited by Fixxxer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215367-insulating-intercooler-pipes/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I'd be interested to see the amount of heat that the air actually takes on.

After cooler (take temp), Before Throttle body (take temp)

Think about how fast its moving through there when your on the song. I cant imagine it taking on a massive amount of heat.

This has come up before a few times I think, no real results as yet though

Make sure they don't get minced by the radiator fan blades, some peoples intercooler setups that pipe is pretty close. I have had to help a mate dremel the corners of his fan blades off to clear the intercooler piping before, i have read something on autospeed about putting rubber over mits over intercooler piping too. That wouldn't be as cost effective as your stubbie cooler cooler.

The oven mits is autospeed's idea, except theirs looked even dodgier, and cost them $75 for 2 oven mits which was only enough to cover 40cm of pipe. I expect beer coolers to give similar results for way less $$.

Ohh and R31Nismoid - On the autospeed article, the guy got a 7-10 C drop in temps from insulating approx. 40cm of pipe. I'm expecting about 1.0 - 1.2m. I agree that at full throttle the air speed is massive, and temp increase may be smaller, but it can't hurt right?

I'm really looking to improve the on throttle response and pickup throughout the rev range, when air speed is reduced, part throttle, etc...

Fixxxer

should make some difference, I think.

if intercooler water spray is a good idea, then probably so is this.

would look pretty rangi but for the price you pay, you can't go wrong eh.

actually hot intercooler piping is a main reason im going front facing plenum. only a meter or so of the pipes will be in the engine bay.

Edited by sonoramicommando
The oven mits is autospeed's idea, except theirs looked even dodgier, and cost them $75 for 2 oven mits which was only enough to cover 40cm of pipe. I expect beer coolers to give similar results for way less $$.

Ohh and R31Nismoid - On the autospeed article, the guy got a 7-10 C drop in temps from insulating approx. 40cm of pipe. I'm expecting about 1.0 - 1.2m. I agree that at full throttle the air speed is massive, and temp increase may be smaller, but it can't hurt right?

I'm really looking to improve the on throttle response and pickup throughout the rev range, when air speed is reduced, part throttle, etc...

Fixxxer

Ah ok cool, they had some numbers, great stuff!

What car/setup was it?

Where were the readings taken? (like, off idle, cruising, full throttle etc)

Sounds interesting :banana:

i wonder how heat/fire proof a stubbie holder is.

last thing you want is for it to catch fire.

if it is stable under hot temps, it sounds like a pretty good idea. and considering you could likely get a snug fit passing it over the cooler piping, it wouldnt look too bad either.

Edited by Munkyb0y

this is an interesting concept i also would like to see some results, however i am going to the road of changing my piping from the radiator/hypbrid style to suit my greddy intake plenum (not currently on car) cheers.

i just did a small test. i got a stubbie holder, and placed an open flame directly under it, with my finger firmly against the other side. it insulated the heat perfectly. i couldnt feel the flame at all.

unfortunately it caught fire. so then i tried it again with the flame about 1 inch away, and it caught fire again in about 20 seconds. this might pose a problem. it seems this stubbie holder is basically foam inside, and this starts to melt like rubber and then catches fire.

are there different types of stubbie holders?

Edited by Munkyb0y

yeah thats obvious. but extended periods exposed to heat wasnt a test option :blink: . so open flame is a worst case scenario, and may also simulate to a degree what long periods of heat might do. ie. cause the material to become brittle, hard, melt, crack etc.

Edited by Munkyb0y

Yes, I've thought about the whole catch on fire thing. Looking at where they will be positioned on the cooler piping, I would guess that underbonnet temp, and the actual temps of the intercooler piping to be less than 100C, which I wouldn't imagine to be anywhere near enough heat to make these things smoke, let alone catch fire.... I was going to trial a few first though, maybe chuck em in the oven at 100C? See if they dry out..... etc....

I'm going to go ahead and buy them anyways, if it fails for whatever reason, I have many coolers to keep my beers cold :blink:

Fixxxer.

excellent :thumbsup: will be watching for your results.

if they survive the 100c test, maybe bump it up to 150c or so. just for peace of mind :)

i can vouch for one thing, it certainly insulates well from heat.

Edited by Munkyb0y

Let's do some numbers on say an R33GTST running 1 bar of boost at 2,000 rpm

2.5 litres x 2 bar (1 bar atmo + 1 bar boost) x 2,000 rpm /2 (it's a 4 stroke) = 5,000 litres per minute or 83 litres per second

The average intercooler pipework (after the intercooler) holds around 6 litres.

So the air spends around 0.07 of second going though the pipework.

Now touch the pipework with your finger for 0.07 of a second and see how much heat transfer there is.

Nothing, zero, zip, diddly squat ....... because the contact time isn't enough to transfer any heat.

But wait there's more.....not all of the air is touching the inside of the pipework, some goes down the middle (boundary layer not withstanding).....so its even less than nothing, zero, zip and diddly squat.

That's at 2,000 rpm, at 5,000 rpm it's all of 0.03 of second.

So make your own judgement as to whether or not your time (and money) would be better spent elsewhere.

Cheers

Gary

Hmmm, Sydney Kid poses an interesting case. Numbers speak.

If this mod can be tested and yield some actual numbers saying it's worth it, then you win. I'd say heatsoak would definitely be reduced with this mod, in the way there's a small amount of foam glued to the back of a SMIC.

If you test this and it works, i'll be buying a dozen stubbie holders with my next case :thumbsup:

The average intercooler pipework (after the intercooler) holds around 6 litres.

So the air spends around 0.07 of second going though the pipework.

Now touch the pipework with your finger for 0.07 of a second and see how much heat transfer there is.

Nothing, zero, zip, diddly squat ....... because the contact time isn't enough to transfer any heat.

someone else brought up this point before - without the figures.

does it mean intercooler heatsoak is not an issue either?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PRICE  : $1400 LOCATION   : NSW Central Coast FIT  :  All Nissan 350Z type Z33 and Infinity G35 Coupe. See delivery note. Hi, brand new, unused, still in the box.  ($1850.00 is what i paid ) My bad luck !!! I thought my right front  Bilstein was cactus so i bought the ST 's to replace all.  Turns out the right front is fine ( loose mounting after service  by a well known importer of Bilsteins ) So im selling the ST's. They are made by KW ( no intro needed ) . Iam on the Central Coast and im willing to meet up in Sydney metro, within reason and Newcastle.
    • Yep, yeah would need to do the flywheel although the 6 bolt NA clutch can handle a 20de if just wants to replace the stocker.
    • No it's fine. Heat sleeve is a thing. With oil running through it it is unlikely. Engine off heat soak can be a thing though. There is no way that you have a leak through the hose. That has pressure behind it and any small hole will turn into a large one in very short order. It is so much more likely to be leaking from the connection.
    • Really? That's piss weak. I didn't know they hobbled the shitboxen that badly. OK. So probs need to buy a flywheel too. But that's not too bad.
    • Hi all. I already posted some newbie-ish questions here and there but this will be my first "big" post. Last summer I went and fulfilled a kind of childhood wish, because I just thought I needed this experience in my life no matter what. The car I bought is a mildly modded 1995 BCNR33 Vspec. It was repainted to a metallic orange color all around and it had all windows reseated. Not so well done black respray in the trunk and a metallic black in the engine bay. From outside it looks very nice except for a minor paint error on the roof and the rear spats needing new adhesive tape. The inside is pretty clean and no broken plastics, missing or faded buttons. Even the adjustable mirrors and trunk antenna work like a charm. Despite a moderately long list of issues I don't (yet) regret buying this car. Most mechanical problems are just due to age, like worn rubbers here and there. The underside sadly has lots of corrosion, especially to the back. It looks like it either has been driven in the winter for a while or it lived near the saltwater in Japan, the rust is nothing terrible but it'll require to be looked after. Mostly panel gaps and all the mounted components underneath are a bit crusty, but I don't think anywhere has progressed so badly that there's going to be holes. Front right jacking rail is crushed and needs some care so it doesn't develop into a rust crater at some point. Worst part is definitely the strut towers. I thought they looked fine but after taking off the strut bar I noticed that it actually started bulging up on the passenger side. Probably would have passed on the car or negotiated down by some thousand Euros more if I had noticed this before buying, but here we are. Trunk area also has signs that there was a water leak to the interior once but nothing too crazy, I guess lots of Skylines had this at some point. As for the list of (known) issues, I'll try to make this compact. I hope the coloring is self explanatory. Mechanical: -Various busted or soon-to-be busted rubber bushings and ball joints. Will replace ball joints with OEM or better and bushings with polyurethane where possible. -Shaking steering wheel at above 80kph -downshift from 5th to 4th is a bit crunchy unless I rev-match, might just try to renew the shifter assembly, but it's not a priority issue -tailshaft centre bearing could use a replacement, is it worth going 1-piece tailshaft as it doesn't look too fresh all around? Chassis: -underbody corrosion on many spots and in hollow spaces, needs to be treated -corrosion on many bolts, hoses, lines, suspension components, subframes, will be treated when replacing of the bushings is needed as time goes on -strut tower top panels and some of the surrounding panels are rusty, so needs fixing. Will look into doing this with a buddy in the winter, otherwise bite the bullet and pay a professional -driver side door is misaligned to the body and needs to go a slight bit more inwards -both door windows are misaligned and have an airgap where the window meets the door at the B pillar -The Aerocatch latches for the bonnet have locks but no keys, need new keys. -driver side door window is kind of gritty and could use a polish -damaged jacking rails and front frame rails, from people lifting the car the wrong way, might have this fixed by a bodyshop Electrical: -Nismo tachometer is just bouncing and displaying nonsense, supposedly worked fine when the stock ECU was still in the car -An old Greddy boost controller sits on the dash which will be removed as it servers no purpose anymore. -a led segment rpm gauge is on the steering column, will probably also be (re-)moved once the Nismo tacho is working correctly -there was an attempt to make the sound system better by the previous owner but it was just inducing noise all the time, ripped out the amp and filters in the back, no music for now -trunk antenna goes up as long as the radio is on regardless of the mode, I want it to only rise if I choose Radio specifically or per switch -3rd brake light is a bit dimmer than the taillights but everything was converted to LEDs so mabye now it just seems dimmer? -reverse light flickers, have to test if that behavior changes when I fiddle with the gear stick. Hope I can get around changing the switch. -Left side taillight, blinker section has minor water intake and is humid after washing. Other side has a hole in it, probably for that exact reason. I'll probably reseal them entirely and plug the holes. Engine: -minor coolant drips on one or the other hose -rear turbo leaks oil onto the exhaust making the car essentially undriveable due to fire hazard -Oil filter relocation kit has an oil drip at the Dash lines, will probably make a new connection there and tighten real good and pray -throttle body assembly is slightly stuck for the first throttle pedal input after sitting for a while I'm always open to suggestions and advice from more experienced people, I'm sure half of this list is easily dealt with and just requires some time and effort to sort out properly. Once I have some proper pictures of the car I will post some in this thread, I just have to remember to take some more once I get the chance to. Will post updates when I have news on anything, I want to try to keep this thread as kind of a logbook as well. Ultimately my goal for this car is to just enjoy it. An engine rebuild is probably going to happen sometime as well, because it is old after all. It will never be fully new again, I am just not that rich. But I want it to look good, work well and not rot away while I drive it. I'm probably gonna spend a lot of money on this journey, hopefully not an unreasonable amount.
×
×
  • Create New...