Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

someone else brought up this point before - without the figures.

does it mean intercooler heatsoak is not an issue either?

Intercoolers are heat transfer devices, pipework isn't. Intercoolers have far more surface area, inside and out, so the air is in contact for much longer. Hence it has time to transfer heat.

Cheers

Gary

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

but whats sandwiched in the middle?

coz the one i used looks like wetsuit too.

Nothing?

If its the proper stuff it'll be pure material, some are think (4mm) and some are thicker.

Some stubbies have the foam and a layer either side.

Its like how many ways to skin a cat, many ways to make a stubbie holder :thumbsup:

Interesting.

To throw into the mixing pot, GTR factory rubber pipes into the IC and out of the IC... are insulated with a layer of some fibrous mat, then another layer of thin rubber sheet.

NVH reduction

Cheers

Gary

There are two different issues.

1: Heat soak at idle

2: Heat transfer on the move.

1. Heat soak for piping can be an issue at idle. Far less of an issue that that for uncovered pod filters however & not really worth worrying about.. The area the Gt-R has insulated is basically where the hot air exits the radiator.

Question - there is a temp read out available on the Power fc for the air inlet. Where is the sensor located?

2: Not an issue because the volume of air running through the inlet pipes is far, far larger than the transference of heat through it.

Question: If heat transference is minimal between piping and compressed air after the intercooler , why do we see intake pipes and manifolds being sprayed with nitrogen gas (or whatever it is) during dyno runs, i.e. at AutoSalon?

Edited by R338OY

I understand the flow characteristics of an engine.

Ohh, and this is on an RB20, 0.8bar.

I'm not so much interested in peak figures, ie.., wide open throttle, but also what it may do at other part openings of the throttle, or response, etc...

It cost me $16.50, and I think it's more than enough, worth a try no doubt?

Fixxxer

hmm, i'm very interested....

My cooler (GReddy type M) is really efficient. Qualify: the inlet side of the cooler is damn hot, can't hold hand on it for long after spirited driving, and the outlet side is quite cool, just like metal thats been out of the sun...

On the other hand, the pipework that runs behind the radiator is damn hot... I would be very interested in something that reduced the pipe's heat and also made it look less aftermarket when the coppers open the lid....

(I believe they wont be able to see the fridge door cooler at the front, they'll look straight past it)

According to Hot4's Which we all know is a great basis for tuning cars* supposedly the change in air heat during the movement through the intercooler pipes is about 0.02 so I say make up with that with a bigger turbo

Oh and if u insulate it, it also keeps heat IN

* Not entirely true and could be total misrepresentation of Hot4's

Oh and if u insulate it, it also keeps heat IN [/quote

Good point. I'd like to know what difference the ambient air passing over the IC piping behind the radiator makes to pipe temps. Maybe you're reducing possible cooling by covering the pipe up? Let's not forget all the air swallowed into the engine bay while you're driving. Again, can't assert much without some testing.

*lightglobe moment* what about an official SAU Laboratory which tests forum claims using empirical analysis. Good way to silence the noobs :D

Edited by R338OY
Intercoolers are heat transfer devices, pipework isn't. Intercoolers have far more surface area, inside and out, so the air is in contact for much longer. Hence it has time to transfer heat.

I'd go along with that in theory - amount heat transferred via pipework is negligible compared to that via intercooler.

But didn't the autospeed article state that there was 7-10°C drop? I can't ignore the empirical results.

Yes, quite rightly the insulation will keep heat in, but essentially the only thing heating things up is the radiator and underbonet temps. There is only a small amount of heat getting in from the connections (rubber/silicone) to the metal components (intake manifold). This small amount of heat when driving is negligible, and would be totally supressed by nice cold air out from the intercooler (which it currently does).

I will post back when I do the mod, including telling you guys if this stuff does work (cooler pipes remain cold), and any changes I notice by my bum dyno on response, part throttle and full throttle.

Fixxxer

Question: If heat transference is minimal between piping and compressed air after the intercooler , why do we see intake pipes and manifolds being sprayed with nitrogen gas (or whatever it is) during dyno runs, i.e. at AutoSalon?

To cool the air below ambient by making the I/C itself colder than the ambient which is what most I/C's are only even going to achieve, a few deg above ambient.

The gas super cools the I/C and thus brings intake charge down markedly

Similar in purpose to a dry ice cooler.

Sydney kid made a few good points..

has anybody thought a little out side of this box though?

What i mean is that the intake manifold is heated and so is the throttle body. So, wrapping the pipe probably wont do a lot for you..

If you live in tropical Queensland (like me), I bypassed the the throttle heater(not advisable if u live in snow, cos the throttle MAY stick!). That made a HUGE difference. the cruise intake temps went from around 78 degrees down to 45ish. Now to do the manifold is a different story. My point is this, IF you are really concerned about dropping more temp, then wrapping the IC pipping is way down on the list.

I wrapped my intake pipe ages ago in beer coolers, after i turned them inside out! I had it originally covered in fibreglass wrap which drove me made EVERYTIME my arm went into the engine bay.. so i swapped them. The pipe is cooler, looks ok in black and has shown zero signs of heat damage of any kind! That said, I only noticed the smallest of improvement, and that was from cruise onto boost.

I put this down to slower moving air that got heat soaked.. but that still doesnt really add up.

If your pipe looks crappy, then dont use beer coolers, go the wet suit option.

but try it out, i already had 20 or so beer coolers.. didnt cost me a single $ to find out!

That help anybody?

Ok, got some prelim results.

Used about 11 coolers, plus about 30cm of heat shield material from Clark Rubber (around over-engine pipe), about 95% coverage all up.

Today was a cool morning driving to work (city). Lots of idle time/stop start traffic.

Pipes = much cooler

Result = Fair improvement to response (from stop to building boost). Didn't have much time to explore on-boost due to traffic, but didn't see much if any improvement (too much airflow), not on my bum dyno anyways.

*Noted air intake pipe was a lot hotter than usual, this was due to longer idle times (more traffic). I have lots of heat shield material left, so will make a proper airbox for the filter.

Fixxxer

Ok, got some prelim results...

How ever much i might/might not, respect your "feel frmda ass" real numbers are important.... :D

*lightglobe moment* what about an official SAU Laboratory which tests forum claims using empirical analysis. Good way to silence the noobs :)

L0L

Edited by GeeTR

Yeah, sorry guys, this was never going to be a rigorous analysis of the results, I do not own a temp guage/thermocouple, it was more of a do it, see if it drives better analysis.

Result was much cooler pipes (hand test), on a drive more prone to heat soak (as verified by the hotter air filter intake pipe not insulated).

I don't know how much dyno testing has proved this (but dyno days with Cryo sprays/water spray on intercoolers has), but it's widely suggested that a temp drop of 4 to 5C yields approx. 1% more power.

Either way, the effect of cooler pipes can only be a good thing for power and/or efficiency.

Fixxxer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...