Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Stroker's Using A Block Spacer... ?how?

GTRNUR

By GTRNUR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Im investigating stroker engine recipie's. How does the spacer block get attached to the top of the rb26 block?

I presume there is some drilling and bolting down of additional studs to locate the plate while it and the bores's are bored out for the sleve's?

Last question... How is the spacer sealed to the top of the block so there is no water or oil leaks? is the spacer block o-ring'd around ther water galleries and perhaps using a copper gasket around the oil galleries... or do they block oil all together and run external oil lines?

Or perhaps part or all of the above?

Just curious..

Cheers,

Ian

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

You'd think gasket each side of spacer.

Extra long head bolts etc that go through the spacer to the block to hold it in place

different belt and all that to go with it of course.

Oil/water etc would meet, just makes it longer travel, although with oil mods probably some blanked off or restricted still

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I thought the spacer would have been bored to the same size as the cylinder bores, and then the sleaves would be pressed into the spacer AND the block, holding the two together?

I guess the sleaves would have to be decked to the same height as the spacer block while the spacer is torqued to the same spec it would be with a head on it, when there is a gasket under it.

just get an RB30 block and build it

save the f**k around

There are a lot of good reasons to consider going down spaced block path which i sure we dont need to debate here.

STR8E180 Proficient

STR8E180

Posted
Posted
just get an RB30 block and build it

save the f**k around

the OS giken RB30 stroke kit is alot less f**king around compared to using a RB30 block

my is under going a RB30 + RB26 cylinder head in his R32 GTR and nothing fits

he regrets not going with the OS giken 3L stroker kit now

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That the reason right there. Its not as big a deal in a 2wd skyline (althoough it does take some effort), a gtr is a whole diferent situation.

It makes looking at short rod stroker engines like the Tomei 2.8 kit and what Mark99 did with a 2.9lt in an RB26 block worth investigating.

Dahtone Racing Grand Master

Dahtone Racing

Posted
Posted (edited)

the only thing a OS kit will help with fitting is the sump because you wont need an adapter plate

your still gonna have issues with the height using an OS motor or an RB30 block

personally i just dnt like the idea of spacer plates and extra gaskets etc

i like to keep things simple

i had no problems fitting my RB30 but then again it wasn't in a GTR

Edited by Dahtone_Racing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • zique
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By zique · Posted

      Been so long since I have been here,seeing SDU is dead. I had that problem on my gtr in 2006 but luckily there was no engine damage,it was inspected by Hytech Engines,race bearings and extended crank collar put in and that was about it. Hopefully yours is sorted now.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      NC MX5

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Would it not be cheaper to just spray nitrous?
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I've got cash, it's the NA LOLS I'm after now Plus, I've had a few boosted cars, and it is soooo easy to turn a reliable car into a unreliable drivetrain eating money pit monster by just paging up and chasing more My power goal for the NC is to try for a reliable naturally aspirated 150kw or 200hp atw (I'm old, and the old naturally aspirated cherry of 100hp per litre is a goal that I would like to hit), no more is really needed for what I use the car for,  so a additional 5kw is what I'm chasing now,  that 5kw is about $3k away, I think....
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I dunno. I just go off what I know works. On RB20, the idle switch meant something to the ECU and the potentiometer was ignored. In Nistune, with the switch unplugged, you could bridge the terminals in the loom connector and see IDLE come on and off. Not so by moving the pot. The R32 RB20 ECU and the 26 ECU both look like this. Sure there is the "throttle sensor" (pot) on pin 38, and also sure, the idle switch is also directly wired to the TCU, whereas the pot is only directly conected to the ECU. But I am sure that the throttle position from the pot is passed to the TCU across the data bus on pins 21, 22 & 31. Maybe the ECU likes to know throttle position, but it sure as hell doesn't use it to determine the idle condition. Meanwhile, on the later engines, like the 33 25DET and my Neo, you remove the TPS and move the pot to-from the 0.45V position, and IDLE comes and goes in Nistune. No throttle switch on the ECU diagram. Just the pot.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So, good news and bad news Bad news first: The intake plenum is lost in the mail apparently, I haven't paid for it yet, and MX5 Mania are still chasing it up, farking 'Merica postal service  Good news: Any retune will be free if and when it turns up,  I'm still keen for them to throw it on The car goes noticeably better, with only the typical initial take off thingie from a choppy cam and manual transmission, but giving it just a little more RPM than before gives it a smooth take off (and hour or so of peak hour traffic sorted that little skill out) Car made around 145kwatw & 225Nm (Intake may get me to 150kw, maybe....🤣) Weirdly, 145kwatw is the same max power that my standard 2015 WRX STI made a few years ago The cam really comes alive from around 3.5k and keeps making power and holds it flatish all the way to 7k, whereas before torque would drop hard around at 4.5k Drive home was sadly in peak hour, although I did get a little clean air here and there to wind out 1st and 2nd a little bit, and whilst the gains aren't anything for the "boosted boys" to be impressed at, the thing is a blast to drive The sound in the vid is poor, as it is in a undercover yard at work, but, outside, in the wild, it sounds awesomeballs to my ears with all the choppyness I consider it money very well spent for the outcome  Cam specs for reference (Basically the biggest you can fit with stock pistons) 20250417_171807.mp4   LOL, I don't think I will ever grow up  
×
×
  • Create New...