Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

one thing that all rb motors are going to need at one stage or another is a overhauled ignition system, wheather you go for replacement direct fire, or go for a wasted spark system, this is just as good as putting a free flow exhaust manifold.

you notice the difference.

you'll have money left over to buy a programable rom for your ecu.

your a goose.

i have over 350 rwkws with the standard coils and ignition system, running 24psi daily.

would you like to respond to this?

My advice:

get a bigger dump pipe and front pipe (does not have to be split, the big bell mouth ones work well too). also doesn't have to be new either. That will be anywhere from $250 to $500 depending on what you get and if it's new or used.

then I would get your ECU chipped and tuned. the toshi remap seems to be popular. when you get this done also fit a cheap bleed valve and up the boost to 11 or 12psi even that extra 1 or 2 psi will make a difference and make the car feel a bit nicer. The remap and bleed valve will eat up the rest of your $1000 budget. but you should get some good gains out of those mods. :down:

Mate I am actually in the same boat as you except I have an R34 GTT - currently has cat-back (came free with car) and boost controller ($30) running 10-12psi. I also want to spend minimal money - My plan is:

Dump pipe - $199

Hi Flow cat - $160 (you already have this)

FMIC - $300 (not really needed but hey I like the look).

SAFC NEO - $250 (brand new delivered, buy from the USA dont get ripped off here)

Tuning for above - $100-200.

Thats $1100 for me or $649 for you (as you have cat, R32 wastegate (10psi) and dont need FMIC). Personally I think SAFC is a wise investment, these cars run sooo rich with exhaust...I get 350km to a tank driving normally, everything is serviced/new, which leaves the air/fuel tune.

I only have one rule when modifying and thats make sure everything you buy can be taken off and sold seperatly when you sell the car, i.e. KEEP ALL YOUR STOCK PARTS. End advice.

Hey thanks for that!

Would you maybe pm me the details of where i can get the SAFC?

Whats the difference between the toshi remap, the jaycar fuel controller and the SAFC tune?

Hey thanks for that!

Would you maybe pm me the details of where i can get the SAFC?

I havn't looked in a while but I just did a google search of US performance shops - also US Ebay had multiple new SAFC NEO's for under $300 delivered to your door in Aus.

^^ Also in responce to Decim8 I have had multiple X-Force exhausts (previosly on a WRX and a VR4) and never had any problems with them, why pay double for a brand name? But thats just my opinion not saying your wrong.

if you shop around you should be able to get a FMIC kit and front section of your exhaust for $1000...

You should be able to fit it all yourself, they are both easy to do if your not confident just take your time...

I think the best mods are the one's you d yourself a lot more rewarding.

I speak from experience when i say

get someone to fit the dump for you!

Good luck trying to undo the stock screws without snapping anything.

Is a Nistune ROM and remap essentially the same thing?

Hyperdrive in W.A say they can remap it and tune it for $800.

Is that reasonable?

Also, i have heard that remaps are better then a SAFC and tune, but i have nothing to base that on.....

Nistune is an advanced re-map. It accepts live changes making it easy to tune.

It also comes with software pretty much featured to the level of a power FC.

I had two rb20 cars.

One got an SAFC and 14 psi and the other stock boost and nistune.

http://butters.throwinghandles.com/file_st...veditvsSafc.jpg

Thats the comparision graph. The nistune does make less power but that is only becuase it has no extra boost.

You can clearly see the difference in the quaility of the curves. I won't buy an SAFC again !!

Driving them is worlds apart to the Nistune is so much smoother and feels almost as fast as the higher hp tune.

OH and as for SAFC not making any more power.

sus out this before and after SAFC.

http://butters.throwinghandles.com/file_st...fcTuneSmall.jpg

the AFR's of the scale without the SAFC and thats just with cooler, zorst and boost.

i think in the end you gotta try things for yourself...

i have been running 14psi with the stock turbo and smic on my 32 for 2 years/50000'ks and its still going strong....

i also have one of those china manifolds that is supposed to crack a week after you buy them and mines been fine for 50000k's

of all the mods i have done i have found that good tyres are the best bang for the buck.....

i have one of those ecu remaps and i can hardly notice the difference...

taking out the sub, rear seats and all the trim behind the front seats made heaps more difference..

but changing the castor, and camber bushes to adjustable did f**k all..

thats me and my situation its gonna be different for everyone...

Ok here's the update...

Dump is definately on the cards, i thought i might first just try to source something decent second hand. Anyone?

As for remap i did some research and spoke to Toshi (Great guy who knows his stuff! Thoroughly recommended!), he was even kind enough to show me what he could do on my car with the road tune, try before i buy type of thing which was a real learning curve for me. BUT even though my car is still as i first posted as i didn't really feel any more pull from the tune, a smoother overall delivery of power definately, but not any more pull. Toshi recommeneded i try a front mount, dump pipe, hiflow, fuel pump and airflow meter to really make the most of the tune, which i can appreciate but i'm not going to do...

Toshi spent a long time and did a great job but i just think my mods i have done even when i get the dump pipe can't justify the tune... not just the money side of things but just the fact it didn't change a hell of a lot with my setup..

I'm not sure if anyone else has experienced this with same mods?

So i'm still not sure what to do next...

A few have said boost controller and up the psi but my friend had a bad experience with boost creep in his 33 with similar mods except for FMIC snd dump pipe and blew the turbo, which kinda scares me off.

i think in the end you gotta try things for yourself...

i have been running 14psi with the stock turbo and smic on my 32 for 2 years/50000'ks and its still going strong....

The R32 Rb20 has less ariflow than the Rb25 in the R33 gtst and as such the turbo can tollerate a little higher boost, as at the same pressure the Rb20 airflow is lower meaning less shaft speed on the turbine. Less power too.

No one has really mentioned replacing the 02 sensor?? Have you replaced it since youve had the car?? if your going to put on a dump pipe you may as well spend the 100 or so bucks for a new one as you can remove the old one and install the new one while the dump is off? good for a few kws i guess if you still have the tired old factory O2 on there. i believe they are supposed to be replaced every 40,000ks or something??

but yeah definitely go dump pipe/hi flow cat converter first

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, thumbsup from me. The distant shot of the bay just looks same-same as before.
    • Dad had a court case drag out with them from 1998 to 2004. He was in a not at fault accident, NRMA were the ones who covered the other person. They tried to blame his neck injuries on the fact he'd had an injury in 1981 on his extreme lower back where he slipped a single disc right near the bottom. Had been all cleared from that injury for years. This accident destroyed his shoulder, and f**ked a heap of discs in his neck, and he still has major problems with it to this day. Sarah's sister while on her L plates had a small Suzuki Alto, she had stopped to give way to an ambulance, and someone changed lanes behind her because there lane was also slowing, and rear ended her at 80km/h. (She had been stopped for a few seconds already too!). Car was completely f**kED. NRMA sent the vehicle around to 3 different workshops as they kept claiming "We believe it can be repaired, and not written off, we just need to find the correct workshop". It took 3 months, and a lot of arguing before they'd concede and wrote it and paid out. About two years later her sister had a Lancer, someone pulled out of a stop sign without stopping (in an 80 zone). Her sister swerved, hit the front of the other persons car (Instead of dead t-boning the drivers door), which ramped her Lancer, and made it roll multiple times down the road. It hit every panel on the way through. Her sister had slid her self out of the car, and remembers the ambos walking to the accident (They'd been sitting at a set of lights just down the road and witnessed it) and they were saying "Well, this ones going to be a fatality, no way you can walk away from that". Well, she did. And then NRMA sent two assessors out to look at the car, both of which wrote it off. They tried to send another assessor out, except a HUGE uproar was raised, and they FINALLY paid it out. That was on a car, that had damage to EVERY panel, you could see from 100m away the whole car was also twisted, roof bowed etc. Nah, we'll try get out of needing to payout on a $10,000 car... Her sister ended up with major shoulder reconstructive surgery being required, and was permanently limited in her ability to do her job as a nurse after that, as she can't (And was told before surgery too this would be guaranteed to happen) regain full strength in that shoulder. However, there was no choice to not have it, as she could barely use her arm, which was her dominant one, and was in near constant major pain. (And she's the type of person that would try and walk off a broken leg!) NRMA did the biggest run around on the personal injury side too for about 18 months, even to the point of trying to put 100% blame of the accident on Sarah's sister, even though the other driver admitted she didn't look, and didn't stop, and was charged by the police. Sarah used to have a Barina insured with them. It was a policy setup, paid all 12 months in advance. At the end of the 12 months, Sarah was living with me, I reviewed the renewal, it clearly stated "If you do nothing, your policy will cease on XYZ date". We did nothing, as we moved her insurance in with all of mine and I was with Shannons. We find out 10 months later, NRMA decided, because he DAD had a car insurance policy at the same address as what Sarah's mailing address was (Garaged address had been changed), that they'd put Sarah's (What should have been non existent policy) onto her Dad's month to month charges on his credit card. We had to jump through hoops, to get a refund. They didn't care that we actually found the letter that said "If you do nothing, your policy will cease" they made us prove we had NON COMPULSORY insurance else where before they'd issue the refund, and after they agreed to the refund, it still took another 6 weeks and 3 more phone calls for them to actually process it. They also had two insurance claims from storm damage, and they were an absolute cluster to get resolved as well (one vehicle, one house). Some how, up until about 3 years ago, her parents were still loyal to NRMA too, and we were like "How the hell are you so loyal to staying with them, when other places are so much cheaper, and they've f**ked you over every time you've ever had to make a claim?"
    • I got the four AN10 fitting welded up to the cam covers and started up making the head to sump breather/drain lines. The front passenger side cover I used a 45 up top and a 90 at the bottom into the stock VCT head drain spot (3/4" BPST to AN10 adapter) thats unused on the RB25DET NEO with some speedflow flame shield to protect it from the manifolds heat.   back passenger side was a 90 up top with some flame shield and 45 at the sump end. The rear drivers is 45 at both ends   the front drivers fitting is capped off for now but ready to go if i want to try moving the breathers around. I was told by the fabricator to leave all the welds raw for now to make sure there are no pin hole leaks. A lot of cleaning up, re bundling looms and degreasing to go as well as final assembly on the cam cover baffles. The first real test will be 28th March at a Circuit event. added complexity and more spots for leaks but overall looks relatively neat imo
    • Yeah i think the dash needs to come out. To get the loom or maybe just climate control and radio cluster. My mirrors are done i think the motors don’t work so well after flood haha i need the ac fan, you said you wanted to keep it for your 31 and interior loom not including boot. The wiper motor. I’m not sure how good the window surrounds are on the exterior on the pintara.  I will message you to get your bank details shortly 
    • Just another barrier put up to stop cars being modified. When we're all driving Chinese sewing machines, you won't want to modify it anyway, and you'll likely already have slashed your wrists and be locked up in a padded room for your own protection.
×
×
  • Create New...