Jump to content
SAU Community

Issues With Cooling Pro Stealth Kit

Ivonin

By Ivonin,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ivonin Collaborator

Ivonin

Posted
Posted

I now have my stealth kit but am having major issues putting it on, everything seems to be out by about an inch, I don't know whether I've been sent the wrong kit or the welding on it is buggered but it's got me shitted off haha.

So I was wondering if anyone out there who has fitted one to a S1 R33 GT-ST has any pics of it mounted with the front spoiler off or even just it sitting behind the front bar, it would be awesome, thanks in advance if anyone does.

Or if there are any pointers out there anything would help. Saying 'don't buy a cooling pro' does *not* help the situation btw (even though I'm sort of leaning towards that).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215678-issues-with-cooling-pro-stealth-kit/
Share on other sites
Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

i fitted a cooling pro kit on mine. not the stealth kit. a hybrid copy, tube and fin, with trust style elongated end tanks.

i had to mix and match brackets, and basically make the thing fit. no way the standard fittings were going to work.

i also ended up using a longer silicone joiner in the engine bay where two of the cooler pips were too far apart.

just get creative. it seemed like the guys at JJ chuck a bunch of brackets in there without much thinking going on.

Ionos Community Regular

Ionos

Posted
Posted
it doesnt look like you've bent the chassis tip either. this will allow you to slope the cooler, bottom side towards the car. it might make things line up.

post-29392-1208926201_thumb.jpg

I bought a Just Jap kit years ago and had the same problem. Ended up having to make new brackets from aluminium to space things out.

Can you move the cooler back further towards the radiator? If not, what is blocking it?

SiR_RB Grand Master

SiR_RB

Posted
Posted

the ac fan is the major thing in the way that wont allow it to swing an further bak towards the radiator

also yours has just the single bracket in the middle on the cooler to hold it up, mine had to and needed to be bolted up to the reo. whats the go here? i think ur one would be easyier to install and if anything hold ur cooler further back...

Bliksem Veteran

Bliksem

Posted
Posted

Worst case remove the pipe and take it to someone who can weld an additional 30mm to it.

Aren't the cooling pro kits a China brand item? I'm seeing alot of victims from cheap china parts lately, the GReddy coolers arent that much dearer...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      braided lines for the turbos

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 2 years later!
    • The Bogan
      braided lines for the turbos

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would something like this be an option  https://processhose.com/products/configurable-metal-hoses/1-2-in-t316-stainless-steel-annular-corrugated-configurable-flexible-metal-hose-assembly-with-ends-t304-single-braid-masterflex-af5550.html I'm looking at this for replacing the OEM EGR when installing a aftermarket intake plenum 
    • r32-25t
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By r32-25t · Posted

      The once piece tail shafts with cv type joints on either end are the ones that end up vibrating and the vibration is caused by the cv joint binding as it turns, I’ve also seen them explode from the binding 
    • Kinkstaah
      braided lines for the turbos

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Take this with a pinch of salt, it's from someone (me) who got annoyed with turbos entirely. I hated aftermarket lines. If I had the option to use hardlines with whatever turbo I had - I would use them, 10/10, 100% of the time. The only reason people go larger, heat resistent, shielded lines etc is because they have to. And yes they don't last forever. Even if you spend big bucks on all the best heat shielding money can buy, with the best heat resistant, fuel resistant, oil resistant, radiation resistant hose, they get stiff and break down and just don't last the way a metal pipe will.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Unfortunately I am quite literally halfway across the globe. So all sources for parts like that are far away for me. What do you mean by that exactly?
×
×
  • Create New...