Hks Ssqv Broken? Fixed

[84ace]

Hi all just wanted some opinions....

Tonight i installed a HKS SSQV in my rx7 and the piece of shit doesn't work. I welded on the flange to the pipe, put the o-ring in the flange, put the bov over it and put in the cir clip. T-Pieced the vacuum line off the FPR. Thought sweet no worries... Took it for a drive and low and behold massive turbo flutter just like before. Thought no worries ive stuffed something, probably vacuum, pulled off the vacuum line to the bov and could feel/hear the suction. I thought It was probably stuck shut form living on my shelf for three months. Pulled it all off, put a screw driver in and pushed the second stage all the way open, then put another screw driver in and pushed the 1st stage open as well. Thought to myself yep i think it was stuck because i herd that cracking noise when a seal hasn't opened in a while.

Put it all back together took it for another drive on 6psi, no bov sound all flutter, changed to 14psi same again.

Got the shits, picked up my ball and bat and went home

that and the sun went down

So my questions are:

how do i bench test the ssqv?

does it need to see vacuum like a normal bov or does it magically just need positive pressure for the reference?

how the bloody hell does it work? i cant work out how it could ever overcome the pipe pressure to open?

Thanks Acea

Edited April 22, 2008 by 84ace

[axe s]

http://www.rtec.ch/webshop/product_info.php?products_id=136

Try putting your T piece inline with your boost gauge so you know that it is not the vacuum line...

[QWK32]

do you have the model ssqv with the adjustment screw?

[The Mafia]

Hi all just wanted some opinions....

T-Pieced the vacuum line off the FPR.

biggest mistake i see a lot of people do because they are too lazy to find a real vacuum line.

Do people know that this is dangerous, and since your adding crap to this mission critical line, it might leak \ come apart and lean the engine, and possibly kill it at high revs?

I've even seen someone dumb enough to run a line from the front of the engine off the FPR line, over the top of the engine down onto the turbo boost controller... Hot engine, rubber hose.. attached to a FPR line.

If I were you, I'd plump that line to a better spot to start with anyway.

[84ace]

biggest mistake i see a lot of people do because they are too lazy to find a real vacuum line.

Do people know that this is dangerous, and since your adding crap to this mission critical line, it might leak \ come apart and lean the engine, and possibly kill it at high revs?

with my set up i have two choices, i can t-piece the FPR and boost gauge line, which i did or i can t-piece the microtech map sensor line. I think i chose the right one, considering how critical the microtech is to the "mission," anyway... its pretty easy to see when the boost gauge continuously reads 0 instead of reading plus or minus half a brick. I think i would pick up a problem with that line pretty quickly.

So that leaves me with another option, drill and tap a new fitting into the manifold. No.

so back to it... either there inst enough volume of air getting to the bov or its broked....

[84ace]

http://www.rtec.ch/webshop/product_info.php?products_id=136

Legend!

Edited April 21, 2008 by 84ace

[84ace]

do you have the model ssqv with the adjustment screw?

No

[RaZ_TuRbO]

Make sure you have acually have vacuum, your vacuum source may be blocked. My t piece has melted shut before.

Edited April 22, 2008 by RaZ_TuRbO

[84ace]

problem solved, i had it t-pieced on the gauge line that had one of those small brass restrictors on it, long story short it just didnt have enough flow to open the ssqv

Thanks all for your help

[The Mafia]

with my set up i have two choices, i can t-piece the FPR and boost gauge line, which i did or i can t-piece the microtech map sensor line. I think i chose the right one, considering how critical the microtech is to the "mission," anyway... its pretty easy to see when the boost gauge continuously reads 0 instead of reading plus or minus half a brick. I think i would pick up a problem with that line pretty quickly.

So that leaves me with another option, drill and tap a new fitting into the manifold. No.

so back to it... either there inst enough volume of air getting to the bov or its broked....

you have more choices

what ever happened to the original BOV line? did it magically disappear?

There is one for the factory boost guage

THere is another back there just sitting around doing nothing

there are more free if you choose to remove your carbon canister.

Map sensor, and FPR pressure, are definately mission critical lines, so stay away from them. You do realise a f**kup on that line and a sudden drop of fuel pressure could blow your engine? Also, the BOV could cause fluctuations on the FPR pressure, making it go all over the place? I can't confirm that, but its definately a possibility..

[Adriano]

Couldnt agree more. In 5 years of working with dynos ive seen 3 cars blow motors over vacuum hoses blowing off. Both had dodgy BOV plumbing, two on the FPR, the other on the MAP sensor. When you are at full throttle on the dyno, it takes about 0.1 seconds for the motor to blow.