Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

95 r33 single turbo skyline when i take the revs up around high 3- 6 thousand range it starts to hesitate and splurt and carry on then once its gone through that it takes off, sometimes it can continue on longer and others times not.. im not sure what the problem is..

When i bought the car the o2 sensor had been disconected and cut off, we dont no why they would of done that so we reconnected the o2 sensor and since then the hesitating has got worse?

Does it need a tune, pcm playing up?

Not getting enough fuel or too much?

I've changes all plugs leads, besides that the car runs smooth.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Jack

If you reconnected and it got worse, the O2 is stuffed... hence it would have just been disconnected.

Really doesnt do much anyhow (if using aftermarket ECU)

You dont have leads on an RB, so not sure how you changed those exactly :thumbsup:

What other mods?

Sounds like a normal case of bad coil packs, incorrectly gapped copper plugs or the lucky last of rich and retard (stock ECU having a fit due to mods other than factory). Could be either one or a combination of some

If you reconnected and it got worse, the O2 is stuffed... hence it would have just been disconnected.

Really doesnt do much anyhow (if using aftermarket ECU)

You dont have leads on an RB, so not sure how you changed those exactly :thumbsup:

What other mods?

Sounds like a normal case of bad coil packs, incorrectly gapped copper plugs or the lucky last of rich and retard (stock ECU having a fit due to mods other than factory). Could be either one or a combination of some

Yeah im not sure what anyone had done previously to the car, but since i have had it i have put and upgrade to the intercooler and lifted the boost about 2 psi.?

I think your rite with the ecu been the problem.. i changed the spark plugs not long ago with uridium style ones.. i might have to do the coil pack next???

Well iridi's are a waste of cash mate and they foul easily (if the car is running rich, that could be your problem in stuffed plugs again)

So pull them out and have a look first, if dead put coppers in.

Coil packs, possibly... but the problem doesnt usually "go away" in upper RPM, but then your boost might be dropping off and that could be a reason potentially also (have you had it on a dyno???)

No i havn't had it on the dyno at all since buying it. Where i live in the Northern Territory the closest place is 500km away and i have heard bad reports on that place from alot of people, so the next closest place would be darwin. 1100km away.

When i change the spark plugs they didn't seem to be showing of any fuel running rich.

The boost dropping off would that be for turing up the boost a few psi? how would i check or find out it was that.?

Map the boost pressure vs rpm, suppose it could be done via your eyes?

Only way (really) is a dyno to be honest, you could probably buy some logging tools and what not but its going to cost some coin and for single use its kinda silly in a way.

Then you cna check AFR's also, just a few basic things that help determine where the problems are (or are not to rule things out)

Did the plugs show anything else? Plugs do tell some interesting stories :thumbsup:

Check the coil packs one by one for hairline cracks, if they have some then they will me arc'in and causing missfiring

NT?

I had to sell my Celica ZR years ago because there was no premium (hi octane) unleaded for sale up there.

If you're running standard unleaded, thats half your problem.

I say run premium (or use octane booster) and fit a new O2 sensor.

lol, haha read my recent post before spend 400 on splitfires "about to fork out on splitfires"..

put new bcp6es plugs in.. if its still a issue then look toward coils..

dont know about u bout 400-500 anit just pocket money to me!!!

Im going to order some new splitfire coil packs for it hopefully that will solve the problem.

Thanks for the help everyone

I just found this thread what do you all think about that?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pe...ix-t216342.html

Edited by jack-95-rb25
We have tried that, 98 octane and ab gas, still the same i seem to think it's the ecu, needs to be tuned for the little mods that have been done

you put leaded petrol in your car? AV gas is leaded

thats a bad idea considering you havea catalytic covertor

My brother did that i only just found out it was mixed with 98 and ab gas.. it won't happen again hehehe.

I talked to the mechanic up this way about the coil problem as he has had very little to do with the turboe skylines he said that if it was the coil pack it would be playing up all the time not just at high revs? can anybody shed some light on the coil pack issue.

Hi there i have the same problem when pushing the car past 4500rpm.my car has the following mods:BOV3inch fUJISUBO catback exhaustboost 9psipod filter.iridium spark plugs 0.8mmi had a 3inch exhaust before with holes in it (brand unkown) and it never used to back fire like that.now that i have replaced it with a 3 inch catback it is splurting.any ideas might change the plugs first?

I've been told its the coil pack mate i have not yet tried that but im looking into it.

I was wondering if there's anyway to test the existing coils, or how to check for damages. I was reading in another thread something about the cracks on the coils.. where would they be located if there's any? on what part?

there are a couple of threads for cheap fixes to coil packs

as it revs you increase the air into the motor and the fuel - the need for a stronger spark is now, hence the gremlin coming out.

im currently having similar problems with mine, especially after boosting it to 9psi. under hard acceleration it seems to be reluctant to go most of the time and will then stutter. i was told it is most definatley my coils, and have also been recommended splitfires. my mechanic said it was because my rea coil was shorting, every now and then when the hood is up you can hear a spark sort of sound which is the short.

hope you figure it out,

will have my coils in a few weeks hopfully that does the trick.

peace

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
×
×
  • Create New...