Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'Day Skyline Guru's,

I am calling upon your collective expertise to help in a problem I have with my car. Firstly I would like to apologise for the long winded post, but want to make sure I include as much information as possible to aid in the fault finding. Secondly I will admit that my mechanical knowledge is very limited and my own resources after the same (i.e. basic tools with limited spare in my garage). To start with I will give details of what I know of my car and when this problem first started, its a 1989 R32 GT-R imported by Autoworx that is in standard condition except the following;

* Nismo 240km/hr speedo

* Cat back exhaust

* Pod filters

* Twin plate clutch

* Aftermarket suspension

* Greddy boost and temperature gauge and a Delphi head up display unit.

I was heading home when I was about to turn onto a 100km zone stretch of road. I thought to myself that giving the car a bit of stick up to the speed limit won't hurt, so I gassed the pedal in 2nd gear. The revs were at roughly 5500rpm when I heard a backfire and the engine started to stall. I managed to coast the car most of the way home with the engine not wanting to exceed 2000rpm at any stage. Luckily I lived not to far from when this incident happened (1km max distance) so once I parked the car I pondered on the extent of damage I had done. The next day I cruised the car to the local servo mechanic (again only 250 metres away) were he tested the car to the best of his abilities. His limited findings were that compression in all cylinders were good and the engine oil and coolant were not fouled (meaning no blown gaskets). He said that the battery needed changing so I got that replaced straight away but other than that he had no idea about these types of cars. A certain import store with a so called GT-R specialist (which I will not defame) was recommended to me for the repair of my car, so I organised for the car to be trucked to them with details of what had happened. Anyway to make a long story short I received my car back after 9 days with the GT-R specialist saying that he doesn't know how to fix it (this is after paying a considerable amount of money for his expertise). So the car has been parked in my garage ever since awaiting repairs.

These are the known symptoms;

Engine idles smoothly but if you try to free rev it will climb to 4500rpm than just after that it will stall back to a rough idle for a few seconds before regaining a smooth idle. It is hard to tell if the turbo's are boosting but there is needle deflection from the boost gauge.

Trying to drive the car it will not exceed 2500rpm and the engine wants to stall and stutter continuously. If the battery is disconnected and all power is drained, upon reconnection the car drives as normal for a period of no more than 30 seconds.

The engine appears to be over fuelling as there is copious amounts of black soot/unburnt fuel than there was before this problem. Again there are no unusual sounds coming from the engine and the temperature remains normal.

Before all of this the car was a dream to drive with the only hiccup being a very infrequent engine stall during low speed cruising.

Here is a list of all the things that have been carried out to try and fault find the source of the problem:

* ECU code checked with nil faults found (I used the guide on this forum).

* Removed than replaced boost gauge and Head up display with nil change in performance.

* Swapped and replaced AFM's with nil change.

* Replaced and gapped spark plugs (another guide located on this forum).

* Replaced fuel pump with a new item and carried out the earth wire and positive wire mod including installing a relay (again I used a guide on this forum).

* Replaced all vacuum hoses were possible.

* Checked timing, it advances during revving until the 4000-4500rpm mark were it goes all over the place than retards itself.

* Checked all wiring at the ECU and in the engine compartment, including rearrangement of the ground wiring kit.

* Removed majority of inlet pipe work then cleaned and refitted securely.

* Removed coil packs and mega-ohm the casings to check for current leakage.

* Fiddled with the TBC to see if that was a contributing factor, as yet I am undecided due to the limited rev range.

* Disconnected exhaust at turbo's to check for no blockages in cat converter (this was done buy the GT-R specialist so I doubt its authenticity)

* Disconnected O2 sensors to confirm operation (again it was supposedly done by the GT-R expert)

* Swapped over ECU and AFM's were known serviceable items (you guessed it, done by the GT-R specialist so I have no idea if it was really carried out).

* I have even tried praying to God All Mighty, Allah, Vishnu and Buddha (not necessarily in that order) to see if any of them are just jerking my chain, but alas to no avail.

I have conversed with a member of this forum and he has suggested that it is a turbo failure. I believe that this is more then likely the end scenario but am hoping that it might be something simple I can fix (coil packs, leaking pipes or wiring that I have missed). Or if possible is there anyone in the Newcastle area willing to help in further diagnosis/repair, I would be much appreciative (i.e. offering alcohol, money or eternal praise). As the time has come when my wife is totally annoyed with the car sitting in the garage and she wants it gone. I hope to repair the car before I sell it just to take it for that last drive, but if not I will be forced to sell the car as is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215958-gt-r-engine-problem/
Share on other sites

The immediate symptoms sound like a popped cooler hose..

x2

But the latter symptoms sound like spark is being killed,

  • wether by bad coilpacks,
  • failing/wrongly gapped sparkplugs,
  • damaged electical loom (either ecu, or injector loom),
  • also there are seals that can fail allowing oil into coilpack/sparkplug housing - this one was my problem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
×
×
  • Create New...