Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gary I don't need all theese super functions! I will never use them.

I will not need something more than Nomura haha!! Or R348 Blitz!

The only functions that I need is a launch control and I will have it.

Two maps on the standar ecu and when I will have the handbrake up I will have launch map.. with rev limit 5-6 rpm and with retard ignition and rich afr.. no too much aggresive because I don't need to destroy my expensive T04Z!

So you have built a 750 hp RB26 and you aren't going to use it properly. Seems like a waste of time and money to me.

You had better take a proper look at Nomura and Blitz R348, they make up for the standard ECU deficiencies with add on electronics. Much smarter to do it all in the one unit.

Cheers

Gary

That's anti lag, a complete launch control system combines anti lag with traction control. Anti lag spools up the turbo, builds boost with no load on the engine. If you launch with full anti lag on you will be sacrificing horsepower (too much retarded ignition and way too rich A/F ratios).

I was explaining just this to the owners of two BIG GTR's over dinner in Canberra on friday night. They couldn't work out why when they used "anti-lag" to launch, the cars bogged down off the line and went nowhere. I had much better launch times with an ECU that cost a 10th of the price (mine is std Power FC and they both use MoTeC M800's) only using a fuel cut rev limit with zero boost free revving the engine.

Edited by DiRTgarage

DiRTgarage I think about this and yes I will have a simple rev limit.. better safe than sorry (for my turbo life) but also my car is RWD with 750hp with drag radials (hoosier 275-60-15).. if I launch with boost (rich with retard advance) I will spin too much!! So for start I will use a simple rev limiter to launch.. or just nothing for the first times! Also I have no idea with what rpm to launch!

Sydneykid my car with stock ecu will have the same horsepower with a standalone?

As safe as with standalone?

Unbelievable chepaer that with standalone?

I don't need the race functions of one standalone.. only launch control that stock ecu can have it too!

It is a car for street use and for drag races!

So why to do it?!?

I prefer to spend theese money for a gear set!! Hehe!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Ah yep. I asked a auto electrician about getting a cheap rebuilt alternator vs a new one. He also said he used to it back in the day but it ended up costing similar to what a new one would and recommended getting a new one,.
    • Ah, to clarify if the car has already been tuned and has been modified and you want to go from a oem cat to a 100 cell or decat or vice versa.Are you saying that the car doesn't need to be tuned after a cat change if it's already been tuned?
    • This has been covered a bazillion times but google wet boiling point vs dry. Motul is only good when it's fresh, once it absorbs moisture it gets pretty average very quickly. So as above, make sure you change it if you're going racing. I run the Endless brake fluid in mind, but only because a mate is a distributor and it's cheap. It's not quite as good as SRF but I'm running 380mm rotors on a Skyline so it's not like they get hot.
    • That's the thing, they still add it and it makes fuel cheaper, implying adding 10% of it drops the cost of 91 by what, 5c a liter? I remember when it was barely half the price of 98. Because you know, 85% of what is in the fuel is way cheaper than 91 fuel is by volume.
    • Auto electricians that do repairs on automotive AC systems can source service kits. I don't know where they actually source them. I do know that there is one available for the R34 comp that I would need it for. If you have to pay someone to dismantle, clean and do needed repairs and fit kit contents, then you'd probably end up spending a good fraction of the cost of a new one. I would not be paying for that, because I would be doing it myself. My mechanic (bro-in-law) will happily source what is needed. Back in the day (like in the 80s and 90s), rebuilding an AC compressor was the standard approach, same as for starter motors, alternators, etc, because new replacements were v. expensive. After the China manufacturing boom and the rise of the disposable approach to everything, people just started throwing broken/worn stuff away and not rebuilding things.
×
×
  • Create New...