Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in the market looking for a turbo for my 500BHP ( more or less ) CA18DET project. I have been looking at Garrett´s GT3076R ballbearing turbo but I have learned there is a "fake" and a "real" GT3076R.

As far as I have heard, the difference between the two turbos is that the "real" 3076 has got anti-surge and different compressor/turbine wheels.

I am sure the "real" 3076 would be best for my engine but unfortunately I don´t have that kind of money right now. The "fake" 3076 is almost half price in Denmark but how would it do on a small engine like mine, compared to the "real" 3076???

Which turbo would you guys use on a project like mine???

If you have some ideas I can use for my project, things I might have overlooked or something I should do different I will be glad to hear about it.

I have rebuild my engine with the following specs:

Engine is balanced to 8500 rpm.

Apexi Power FC + Commander

Wiseco forged pistons ( 1 mm. Oversize ).

Pauter connecting rods.

Standard crankshaft ( Knife edged, regrinded, balanced and kryo treated ).

Standard head ( Reworked chambers, valve stems and three angle valve seats ).

Trust / Greddy 2mm. metal head gasket.

ARP head stud kit.

Mechanical lifters.

Jun lightweight flywheel.

Exedy paddle clutch kit.

Trust / Greddy timing belt.

New oilpump ( Nissan ).

Tomei camshafts ( In. & Ex. 260º - 10.25mm. )

Tomei Adjustable cam pulleys ( In. & Ex. ).

Tomei wide coil valve springs.

Turbonetics evolution wastegate.

Treadstone intercooler ( Core size: 550 * 200 * 90 mm. ).

Dump valve ( Aluminum. Adjustable. 51mm piston. )

K&N large Air filter.

Nissan Q45 throttle body.

300ZX Z32 Air Flow Meter.

Walbro fuel pump ( 255 L/min. ).

Sard adjustable fuelpressure regulator.

Sard 800cc fuel injectors.

4” stainless steel frontpipe ( Homemade ).

3” stainless steel exhaust pipe ( Homemade. No cat. ).

2.5 “ stainless steel intercooler pipes + silicone couplers.

Cusco race engine mounts.

Apex performance short shifter kit.

Brand new radiator ( Same size as OEM radiator but twice as thick ).

2 electrical fans.

Oilfilter relocation kit.

Innovate motorsports wideband sensor.

Datalogit logger ( for Apexi Power FC )

Cheers

Jesper

forget the fake one, as it could destroy your engine if it is a super fake one.

Why spend all the money and skimp on the main component?

Go and ask for a Garrett GT3037.

I had the 7 blade version of the GT3076 and it only made 240rwkw before it ran out of puff

Mafia:

Never said thanks for the map you sent me. It gave me a good view of how much you actually advanced the ignition. So THANKS. :)

But ehm... A garrett GT3037? isnt GT3037 a HKS item? :(

The turbo he is talking about is not a "super" fake... Its just the 7 blade version.

Edited by nissan200sx.dk

700382-5012 GT3076R 350-500Hp (2.0L-3.0L) 700177-5007 436157-23 YES 0.60 57.00 56 448420-2 54.98 84 Not Supplied N/A N/A YES N/A Not Supplied YES M14x1.5 Inverted Flare .438in-24UNS 2 Bolt M8x1.25 Purchase Turbine Housing & Actuator Seperately

I've emailed you a speadsheet with them all on it

Edited by The Mafia
actually. no.

HKS make a GT3037 Pro or GT3037 ProS

Garrett Make a vanilla GT3037.

The difference is the Compressor Trims. Garrett run a 56trim, HKS use a 52 trim

the current HKS 3037's are all 56 trim comps as far as i know.

contrary to the above comments the HKS 3037 is available in 3 trims 48, 52 and 56.

built a killer 300+ rwkw CA18 for a guy in sydney (same guy has his black 300awkw evo in current fast fours, acyually its his mums but we did the receipe :))

if i was you i would be looking at a genuine HKS GT3037 as the rear housing are far superior and on a small capacity engine will make quite a differrence (on skylines the differrence is measurable but the extra money vs gain is generally to small for many to warrant it) i do alot of SR20 engines and setups and can never match the Garrets resukts to the gen HKS items except in the real small GT-RS range.

i would look at the 56trim 0.73 rear 3037S part number 1401-RA127 (450+hp) if it were mine i would run the 0.61 housing (1401-RA126) and live with a little less top end (420-440hp) and heaps more mid.

the other option is to buy the garret version and fit the HKS housings which are about $400-500 US

turbo is a gcg "special" 3076r with tial rear housing and surge slotted cover, 260rwkw on 14psi full boost by 3500rpm on a 2litre.

i apologise but the info above is taken from another forum, I'm not personally sure on the exact specs but i saw the thing close up on the way back from QLD, we all stopped at Raleigh raceway for a quick thrash.... it is by far the best engineered car out there... bar none.

Thanks URAS, yes GCG supplied and fitted my Tial housing too. The beauty of the Tial housings are that the T28, T30 and T35 housings all have the same size footprint. So I can swap turbo's without requiring new manifolds, gates, dump pipes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
    • I would suggest equally difficult to find, perhaps edging to the SR. Turkey has almost exclusively Euro market cars, some Korean, few Japanese other than pedestrian shite. I guess they're probably losing the fight against Chinese shit like we are now too. I would vote for a BMW V8, found in a 540i in a wrecking yard somewhere in Deutschland (or possibly Albania).
    • A CigWeld EasyWeld 130 can be had from ebay for $360 delivered. Good for 0.6 to 6mm, which would be fine for my requirements. I guess that on top of that you would need to buy a regulator, hoses and wire. I already have gloves and an auto-darkening mask. How is the gas bottle charged? Do you rent it then pay for top ups?
    • RB20 being an option from factory would mean no custom parts or fabrication required, just have to collect the right bits. Probably would be the easiest option I reckon for a motor swap. How common are SR20s vs RBs in Turkey?
×
×
  • Create New...