A Permanent Coil Pack Fix! So Far!

[JonTurpening]

My coil packs went out on me on the dyno. Needless to say I was a little upset. So I started to search for a fix cause I'm cheap! LOL! All I could find was the old 3m tape trick. So I tried that and it worked for a little while. Then about 4-5 days later low and behold they started the same crap again!

At this point I was about to bite the bullet and spend the money on Split fire coils. Before I did, I wanted to pull the coils out and see exactly what was going on! They were firing threw their plastic housing! There were small, I mean SMALL cracks in the plastic housings on about 4 of the coils. I hooked them up and started the car up and turned out all the lights in the shop! Talk about a light show!!

This told me the coils themselves were actually working! It was just that there housings had failed. I'm a Honda tech by trade and I've seen a countless number of internal coils on Hondas go out due to the heat that they endure being inside of the distributor. Now on the Honda models that have the coil on the outside of the distributor away from all the heat, they never have a problem. Long story short it does appear to be a failure in the coil housing due to heat.

So I set out to see if I could remedy the housing problem. (Since the coils still seemed to be firing good.)

I looked around at allot of coatings and the like but I remembered how I had made my motor mounts in my car! I used a two part urethane. It's called Flexane. It's made by a company named Devcon.

Heck it was a real good urethane that could be brushed on or even used to dip things in. So I decided to give it a try.

I bought 2 of the kits and mixed about ½ of the first kit up and gave all the coils a good coat, making sure not to get it on the plug area or the side that connects to the spark plugs. I took off the rubber boot on the bottom and used some plastic plugs to make sure I didn't get any in the hole. I also didn't coat where the electrical connection plugs into the coil. Make sure you don't put any under where the plug will go also. I did this and ended up having to cut off the urethane so that the electrical plug would snap all the way onto the coils. I hung them up using some wire to let them dry for about 4 hours or so. I mixed another ½ batch of the Flexane up and gave them all another good coat. I let them set another 4 hours and repeated the step again. I let them set overnight and gave them one more good coat. Now you don't want to get too carried away. This stuff builds up fast. If you put too much on you'll not be able to get the coils back in their retainer! I let them set over night again.

I put them back on the car the next day and ran the car HARD! It ran great! I pulled the plugs back out and re-gaped them to 1mm and drove the car again. I put about 50 miles of hard driving on them and they worked GREAT!! Not miss firing or spitting at all! I got the car back on the dyno and it ran great. I've put over 600 miles on the car so far and have not had the slightest problem out of it! I was also considering going with the wasted spark set up but this has worked great so far!! Here is a picture of the coils coated before I put them in the car!

Edited April 24, 2008 by JonTurpening

[TTT]

well done.

so how about some prices and places where this stuff can be purchased?

Bunnings?

which section?

it is electrical shit or plumbing shit?

what is it's real use?

does it have a temperature rating?

[JonTurpening]

I got it from a local Industrial supplier here in the US. They use it for everything from making urethane parts to coating just about anything!

Here is a link online where you can get it.

http://www.markingpendepot.com/browseprodu...-80-Liquid.html

Here is a link to the specs. It says that the operating temp is 180F. I've not noticed Any problems with mine with my vented coil cover!

http://www.freemansupply.com/datasheets/De...ne80-94-add.pdf

[The Mafia]

EVeryone that whinges about atmo BOVs stalling their car, or how they made 300rwkw with just a Front mount and exhaust, etc, take note of this 9.5 \ 10 thread.

THIS is the shit we need to see in forced induction. Well done mate, very well done. I might have to go and di this for my old coil packs, as I still have them.

I have a high respect for you now, and keep up the ideas and good work.

[sonoramicommando]

i was getting bad miss after turboing my N/A and 5 of 6 coils had skinny vertical cracks on the side.

i used GE Silicon RTV106, it's red high temp silicon, rated to 500°F.

it seemed to have done the trick - but then i also regapped the plugs to 0.8mm, so i don't know which one fixed the problem.

i used the rtv cos its nice and flexi so i didnt have to worry about putting too much and the coil not fitting in the bracket.

and it's not runny or anything like that so you can just put this thing on then slap it back on the motor.

Edited April 24, 2008 by sonoramicommando

[R31Nismoid]

Yeah you can do a similar stuff with like epoxy and what not.

good work!

[Ionos]

Good find, although you're not the first to point this out on these forums.

Keep in mind this is only a fix if there are visible cracks in the housing. Sometimes the coils go internally, in which case there is nothing you can do, you have to get replacement coils.

By the way, hooking them up and running it with the lights up is a great way to check if they are failing externally or internally! Good thinking 99.

[paulr33]

Everyone that whinges about atmo BOVs stalling their car, or how they made 300rwkw with just a Front mount and exhaust, etc, take note of this 9.5 \ 10 thread.

haha

love your words

[Munkyb0y]

like many on here, i had the same missfire / spark breakdown.

i used the silicone method. covered them in selleys 401.

i also clean the spark contact inside till it was shiny and gold.

both these things helped alot, but there was still an occasional weak spark in cold weather at 12psi.

another member suggested the contact springs.

so i pulled the coils out again, and this time i stretched the spring that contacts with the spark plug, about 10mm or so. (i'm not sure if the S2 R33 and R34 use a spring, but the S1 definately do).

so now the spring pushes hard against the spark plug, and reduces the chance of poor contact/stray spark.

that was a few months ago, and no problem through the rest of winter and so far. but i'll know for sure once the winter temps drop low again.

just another thing to try

Edited April 25, 2008 by Munkyb0y

[Simon-S14]

i thought this trick was common knowledge???

ive been doing this to every coilpack on my nissans....

[JonTurpening]

This stuff is ALLOT better then silicone. It "bonds" to the coil actually becoming part of it. It's hard and you can hardly cut or grind it off. To give you and idea of how it feels, if you have any urethane suspension parts or motor mounts that is how this stuff is! I actually made my motor mounts out of this stuff! They are way better then ANY of the mounts you can buy for the rb swap into the 240.

[Simon-S14]

doesnt really matter what you use mate, the idea is the same., it keeps the spark in and insulates the pack. I used some Sikaflex Heat stuff that is rated high temps and it works fine now with 280 rwkw and 17 ;psi boost through it. Before siliconing it up they would break down on 8psi with only 160 rwkw... huge difference in my books

[R338OY]

Yeh i agree with silicone/polyurethane. I used silicone and it worked a treat. The tape didn't even cross my mind, it's a flimsy bond compared to the sticky stuff

[Twisted_SIL80]

i thought this trick was common knowledge???

ive been doing this to every coilpack on my nissans....

+1 for Simons idea!!!!

i did the exact same with my RB25 and its works a treat....