Jump to content
SAU Community

Headlights Shorting Out When Cd Player Is Hooked Up?

MZTRBO

By MZTRBO,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

MZTRBO Experienced

MZTRBO

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I have a problem with my stereo, i recently reinstalled my stereo. The issue I have is that when the stereo is connected and I switch the headlights on it pops the fuse that controls the headlights. It obviously seems to be short circuiting.

Another problem with the system: which consists of an amp and sub, is that when i change songs or adjust anything on the cd player the sub makes a big thumping sound. The connection of the grounding wire is very oversized and the connection is not the greatest - not sure if this is the main problem.

Have you guys got any ideas on what could be causing this problem?

Thanks in advance.

Trav33 Mentor

Trav33

Posted
Posted
I have a problem with my stereo, i recently reinstalled my stereo. The issue I have is that when the stereo is connected and I switch the headlights on it pops the fuse that controls the headlights. It obviously seems to be short circuiting.

There is an illumination wire which i think is black with a yellow stripe. If you have wired this incorrectly, it would cause the problem you are describing.

Depending on your head unit, it may not need this wire, in which case you need to tape it up so it doesnt short. I know of someone who thought being a black wire, it was a ground, and wired it up to the head unit. There actually isnt any ground wire from the wiring loom, you need to ground your head unit by running a wire to the chassis.

MZTRBO Experienced

MZTRBO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the reply trav33.

The cd player was working fine for quite a while before this problem. What happened is that the battery terminals were connected back to front. This cause part of my alarm to fry and the fuse on the back of the cd player blew. Before that episode system was working faultlessly. The things i have done is take out the sub and amp and put them back in.

I was also refering to the ground on the amp end.

Cheers :down:

Trav33 Mentor

Trav33

Posted
Posted
What happened is that the battery terminals were connected back to front.

That could be your problem there!

So if you disconnect your CD Player Head Unit, you can turn your head lights on and they don't short out?

  • 1 month later...
MZTRBO Experienced

MZTRBO

Posted
  • Author
Posted
That could be your problem there!

So if you disconnect your CD Player Head Unit, you can turn your head lights on and they don't short out?

Sorry bout the late reply.

Ive disconnected the cd player for now. My mate thinks it might have something to do with how the earth is wired up. He said to ground it instead of using the grounding wire, if that makes sense.

I havnt had an oppurtunity to do this yet. Though it was working fine how it wired up before the battery incident.

Cheers

D

Trav33 Mentor

Trav33

Posted
Posted
He said to ground it instead of using the grounding wire, if that makes sense.

There is no such thing as a ground wire (in the standard factory loom).

The black wire which some people think is a grounding wire, is the illumination wire. I'm 99% sure you are using this wire as your ground which is the problem! Do what ya mate said and it'll be fixed.

infamous_t Veteran

infamous_t

Posted
Posted
There is no such thing as a ground wire (in the standard factory loom).

The black wire which some people think is a grounding wire, is the illumination wire. I'm 99% sure you are using this wire as your ground which is the problem! Do what ya mate said and it'll be fixed.

:(

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Bonnet clearance?
    • joshuaho96
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...