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brought a r32 actuator and swap it with my existing one. went for a little squirt and i manage to only reach 7 pounds.

the only thing that i see is different is, it is 7 pounds even when it is below 4.5k rpm where it used to be 5 pounds then 7 pound after 4.5krpm.

any one have this problem? pretty much stuck at the moment

i have a er34 gtt

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brought a r32 actuator and swap it with my existing one. went for a little squirt and i manage to only reach 7 pounds.

the only thing that i see is different is, it is 7 pounds even when it is below 4.5k rpm where it used to be 5 pounds then 7 pound after 4.5krpm.

any one have this problem? pretty much stuck at the moment

i have a er34 gtt

weird

sorry to hijack your thread but thats exactly what happens with my gt-t... does that mean its already got a r32 actuator thats not hooked on properly? :cheers:

how could i check to make sure which actuator i've got?

i don't have a boost controller.

i did a search and there a few ppl that has this problem. but doesn't really tell me how to fix the problem....

all i did was replace the 34 actuator with the r32 one so the hoses are in the same location..

how do i get rid of the stock solenoid ? pictures will help alot

with the exeption of the gtr, all r32 i'e gtst gts4 turbo cefiro and turbo laurel actuators are all set a 7 psi from factory, this is assuming it is directly connected to the turbo.

you will need to A bend the actuator arm

B (if you have a threaded rod) adjust the length of the rod

C install a boost controller

D pin hole the actuator housing

E change it to a aftermarket unit

F T piece the actuator hose(bleeding off the boost to the actuator taking longer to open the wastegate.

i put a R33 turbo and actuator on my r32, boosting 11-12 psi from my expeirence the 33 is a better option.

with the exeption of the gtr, all r32 i'e gtst gts4 turbo cefiro and turbo laurel actuators are all set a 7 psi from factory, this is assuming it is directly connected to the turbo.

you will need to A bend the actuator arm

B (if you have a threaded rod) adjust the length of the rod

C install a boost controller

D pin hole the actuator housing

E change it to a aftermarket unit

F T piece the actuator hose(bleeding off the boost to the actuator taking longer to open the wastegate.

i put a R33 turbo and actuator on my r32, boosting 11-12 psi from my expeirence the 33 is a better option.

nah. r32 actuator is 10psi. r33 one is 7 psi.

i have em both and checked it out against pressure gauge.

i think what you need to do is get a boost/vac feed from the compressor housing (on r33 turbo you ll have to drill n tap a hole, meaning you ll have to take the housing off - too much hassle and you ll get less boost, i.e. your boost gauge will see less than 10psi due to pressure drop thru i/c etc) or get a feed off J pipe (would be easier and can crank up a lil more boost this way)

Edited by sonoramicommando

in my old 33 i ran a 32 actuator at 10psi. they straight swap into the 33 and the only thing i did was ground out my standard solenoid to have it run consistently at 10psi. if the solenoid was still connected ran 7 then 10 after 4.5k rpm.

in my 34 now i have the 32 actuator and same situation a the 33 i am running 10psi

What you actually want, is your pressure source from POST intercooler, how it is on an R32.

The R33 takes pressure pre intercooler.

Then you get a pressure drop when "cooling" it all down.

R32 go post intercooler, and you'll get a "cooled" 10PSi. What your boost guage is reading is a 10PSi charge that has been cooled, and hence, you're getting 3PSi...

My pressure source is straight off the manifold. Much better...

yes i have. is it that what is causing the issue?

The solenoid controls boost, is comes before the actuator. Replace it with a turbotech boost contoller off ebay (about $30).

Here's how to fit it:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...st-t185848.html

What you actually want, is your pressure source from POST intercooler, how it is on an R32.

The R33 takes pressure pre intercooler.

Then you get a pressure drop when "cooling" it all down.

R32 go post intercooler, and you'll get a "cooled" 10PSi. What your boost guage is reading is a 10PSi charge that has been cooled, and hence, you're getting 3PSi...

My pressure source is straight off the manifold. Much better...

i agree with you that you should get post intercooler, somewhere before throttle body (assuming turbo can handle a bit more than 10psi - most probably) but that's not how R32 actuator works.

it gets pressure feed off turbo compressor housing - i.e. pre-cooler.

just you gotta make sure turbo is not seeing too much boost and blow off its wheels if you are going way over stock 10psi.

The solenoid controls boost, is comes before the actuator. Replace it with a turbotech boost contoller off ebay (about $30).

Here's how to fit it:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...st-t185848.html

im curious. why wouldnt getting a pressure feed straight off either compressor housing or j pipe work? i don't know if that affects the fuel/ignition side of it but the wastegate would progressively open to achieve 10psi (if using R32 actuator). it is independent of ECU or anything else that way - purely pneumatic the way it works.

I'll hook up the actuator bypassing the boost solenoid and i only see 5 pound. connected the boost solenoid to the actuator n i get 7. does that mean the r32 actuator is either broken/or not a r32 actuator? or something in my car that restricting the boost. cause when i compare my actuator to it the nipple you connect the hose to is a bit different

i have a front pipe,cat,cat back exhaust and a pod filter.

Standard R33 actuator is 5psi, not 7psi (don't know if same as R34)

Just that when you hit the 4.5k revs, the solenoid bleeds kicks in allowing the turbo to reach the 7psi, in the same way a bleeder works.

If you wre to install an R32 on an R33, you 'should' have a 10psi before 4.5k and 12psi after...

Make sense? (agian for 34 i'm not 100%)

So your R32 Actuator should see 10psi if no solenoid is invlolved.

Are you looking on an aftermarket guage using psi? or the standard guage that does Hoolymologenus'esssss thingos? (not psi)

Standard R33 actuator is 5psi, not 7psi (don't know if same as R34)

Just that when you hit the 4.5k revs, the solenoid bleeds kicks in allowing the turbo to reach the 7psi, in the same way a bleeder works.

If you wre to install an R32 on an R33, you 'should' have a 10psi before 4.5k and 12psi after...

Make sense? (agian for 34 i'm not 100%)

So your R32 Actuator should see 10psi if no solenoid is invlolved.

Are you looking on an aftermarket guage using psi? or the standard guage that does Hoolymologenus'esssss thingos? (not psi)

aftermarket gauge. i have two(one built into my blitz turbo timer and a auto meter one)

What you actually want, is your pressure source from POST intercooler, how it is on an R32.

The R33 takes pressure pre intercooler.

Then you get a pressure drop when "cooling" it all down.

R32 go post intercooler, and you'll get a "cooled" 10PSi. What your boost guage is reading is a 10PSi charge that has been cooled, and hence, you're getting 3PSi...

My pressure source is straight off the manifold. Much better...

hmmm r32 skylines the actuator's pressure feed comes from the housing just before the 3 bolt flange into the intercooler piping. the hose is around 150ml's long......this is pre-intercooler. not ideal in most situations.

because as soon as the turbo hits 10 psi it opens the actuator....giving you probably 7 or 8 psi at the throttle body once the air had travelled via the intercooler.

the ideal way would be to run a hose from the just before the manifold /plenum chamber i.e J pipe (idle control feed) down to the actuator. and plug the hose from the turbo housing.

this way the wastegate wont open till 10psi is reached at the manifold.

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