F/s R34 Gt-t Seats X1 Comp Set F & R, R33 Gtst Seats Comp Set, F & R X1 + 1 Rear & Parts
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I have recently fitted a Nismo GT Pro Center second Hand buy still in the box i got stubs with it but they are 5 bolt and I need 6 (3x2) I was told by Just Jap that for a 4:36 ratio the stub axles are equal length sku 38220-0V161. They didn't have any in stock but I picked up the ones pictured. The one with 5 bolt are the ones that came with the LSD. The right side went in no issues but the right....I have happened the fk out of it put it in a press and it still sticks out about 5mm too far. It was sticking out about 25mm but after bashing it like Chris Brown did to Rhianna I managed to get it a bit further in but seems stuck again now. Any ideas? Should I just leave it 5mm out and send it? -
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By joshuaho96 · Posted
The clutch pedal has a procedure for adjustment. This can only be done after you are 100% sure the system is absolutely free of air bubbles. You must bleed the clutch master cylinder first, then the "separation pipe" which is the clutch damper line, then the operating cylinder as detailed in the service manual. Also, you must fully depress the clutch pedal between shifts. Just because you can't feel it grabbing does not mean the input shaft is truly decoupled from the crank. At high RPM clutch plates are vibrating and moving around, you need to give it the best possible chance of success. On the BCNR33 Nissan revises these adjustment procedures slightly but not by much: I would be careful with trying to play games with these adjustments. As for the Nismo operating cylinder they say a lot of things. In practice the twin plate clutch needs less movement on the clutch fork to disengage because the whole stackup of the flywheel + friction plates + pressure plate is much taller. Personally if you find that the clutch still disengages too high at the top of the travel I would try the Nismo operating cylinder. Make sure to follow the air bleed procedures. -
Thank you for the links. I’m going to go with the 6pin plug you used. next step is rust treating re painting dash support bar and steering column then the 6pin cradle plug when it arrives in the mail. -
By soviet_merlin · Posted
I don't how much the car makes a difference or whether it is just a question of gearbox and clutch. On mine it's fine. Pull type Nismo coppermix twin (standard, not competition) on the 5 speed in my Stagea. OEM slave cylinder. Bite point is a few cm off the very bottom of the pedal. Clutch pedal all the way down to put in gear, and when heading off at the lights, there's a tiny bit of nothing and then it starts biting. And fully engaged before the pedal is all the way released. There's a bit of play at the top where the pedal does nothing anymore. Are you in Australia @ck_chino? If you are set on using a Nismo slave cylinder I have one new-in-box at home. Ordered it together with the clutch but didn't get it fitted. We can work something out if you want it
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