Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

well ive had her now for a bit over a week, and ive finally got around to taking some happy snaps. so here you go

Quick run down on the car,

1990 R32 GTR

Twin N1 turbos (1.3 bar), Apexi power FC, Greddy Profec Boost controller, ARC intercooler, Nismo fuel pump and reg, Cam gears, Apexi filters, Trust exhaust, Tein Super Street coil overs, Cusco front and rear strut braces, P1 Buddy Club 17's.

I think that about it... But all this equates to about 280kw at all fours, and a truckload of fun!!! Cant wait for the first trackday!

Please feel free to comment...

P.S. Sorry for the poor quality pics, (moblie phone used...)

post-32005-1209270875_thumb.jpg

post-32005-1209270917_thumb.jpg

post-32005-1209270994_thumb.jpg

post-32005-1209271062_thumb.jpg

post-32005-1209271133_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216596-the-new-beast/
Share on other sites

fantastically modified in tough black!

btw mate i would really put in an oil cooler before you take a track day on, if you watch this best motoring dvd called gtr: the prodigy, a stock r32 gtr goes out on the track and the oil temperature climbs very high by like the second lap so id hate to see anything bad happen to yours as its got significanty more power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216596-the-new-beast/#findComment-3825489
Share on other sites

yeah ive actually got that dvd, thats what got me thinking about it.

if the oil temp can climb that quick in a stock gtr at tsukuba (prolli 10 degrees air temp or less), imagine what would happen to one with 280kw at a track day that might be 30 od degrees.

thanks mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216596-the-new-beast/#findComment-3825613
Share on other sites

The engine is still r32, with r34 covers.

brakes are standard, unfortunatley. but upgrade is on the way!

i would like to get my hands on a set of semi slicks for the track, but need to save my pennies for a while.

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216596-the-new-beast/#findComment-3829563
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you already have the engine cross member to match and likely gearbox mount to. The SR20 has a head start on the RB in this case. They handle GREAT with an SR20, lots of fun.   One I did back in the day
    • have no doubt and wanted too trust me and may regret later not necessarily worried about weight (would be 8 kg ish total) it was more the $$ to do it properly is about $6 - $7K in hardwear need long 310mm stroke jacks etc - plus install and call me whatever im not doing it myself even if wanted too cant weld etc  - thats $10K installed vs fraction of that cost while Ive spent some money on this POS I actually really dont like doing so unless its got a large chance to make me go faster 😁 hey in still carting this things around on a 15 yr old rusted open trailer so I can spend on racing not buy a new trailer to look better the manual jacks Ive had done are heavy and take space but are transportable and usable anywhere - taking or organizing even compressed air let alone nitrogen which is more whats needed coming from Perth to Winton or Sydney or the like honestly just adds to my brain headaches/ hurts of organisation also ha 15 mins job will get down to 2 - 5 min job vs 1 min job for airjacks - all tradeoffs I spose
    • Purely out of curiosity, how do you know all this @dbm7? Do you work with automatic gearboxes professionally? This goes way way way beyond "I've had an automatic Skyline once and did some mucking around"
    • I'll just reiterate that it's best to do all the wiring diagnostics, before even thinking about buying replacement solenoids ~ that is, be absolutely sure the solenoid is bad.....ie; bad connector(s), rodents chewed through a wire, etc etc. If you don't so this, you can fork out all the money for solenoids, only to find something else is wrong (this'll make you cry if you pull the valvebody only to find a broken wire is at fault... ...some more glue on the solenoid packs -- this is the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly.... ...these are all shift solenoids ~ ostensibly they're the same as the shift solenoids from the 4-speed auto.... ...this is the RE4R01A solenoid set... ...with these, you have 3 shift solenoids attached to the plate, and the separate solenoid is the EPC solenoid (line pressure control) -- with both designs, the TC lockup clutch solenoid (also PWM so they could slide the clutch shut), is located on the lower valvebody half.... ...(story time)...back in the 90's, it was a common fault that the EPC solenoid (or TC-lock solenoid) would fail, but Nissan only sold them as part of the assembly (think ~$350 at the time) ~ thing was, Isuzu also used these boxes in light commercials, and you could buy the PWM solenoid as a separate part, so it was possible to buy/use that solenoid (around $65), and make it fit (remove the circlip, fit to old plate and deal with wiring)...making it a more cost effective repair. I've not seen the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly, but with the 4-speed RE4R01A it was possible to hack/fit a single shift solenoid onto an other working set, using a donor solenoid from another set with failed EPC....(by rights the whole set should be replaced), but it ends up being a question of how much life is left in the box itself ; sometimes it's a viable repair to fix one solenoid, just to get another 100k of road miles out of it before it needs first overhaul...other times the box is that old/worn, you're as well doing first overhaul and replacing the solenoids and starting fresh... What Nissan did here with the 5-speed, was relocate the EPC solenoid to the lower valvebody (next to the TC lockup solenoid), and stuck the direct-drive clutch solenoid (for the extra gear) where the EPC solenoid used to be on the 4-speed....I can only imagine they did this for serviceability ; the PWM solenoids are most likely to fail, and it's a doddle to drop the pan and change these out (as opposed to dropping the valvebody itself to get at a top mounted EPC)... ...also keep in mind, that some BMW 3/5 series & Mazda (and maybe some Ford/Mazda rebadges, not sure), also used the RE5R01A box under a different name/part number...not saying parts availability is any better, but sometimes it helps to know this when it comes to NOS floating about in the EU.... HTH  
    • FWIW, air jacks are actually pretty light and simple to add, they are just 4 hydraulic cylinders (often at the main cage A and C pillar points) and an externally accessible airline  - they make quick work a breeze
×
×
  • Create New...