Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-256-1212481340_thumb.jpgpost-256-1212481375_thumb.jpg

post-256-1212481403_thumb.jpgpost-256-1212481411_thumb.jpg

post-256-1212481423_thumb.jpgpost-256-1212481432_thumb.jpg

post-256-1212481441_thumb.jpgpost-256-1212481455_thumb.jpg

post-256-1212481473_thumb.jpgpost-256-1212481486_thumb.jpg

post-256-1212481504_thumb.jpgpost-256-1212481517_thumb.jpg

More pics.... clearly the Type J front bumper and the vertex aren't are good match... and considering the vertex bumper we received was about 2 inches out of meeting up with the panels when mounted... might be a blessing in disguise.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

you guys can make up your own minds about the quality of the guards n bumpers :blush:

needless to say there's gonna be a bit of work left before it all starts looking good... and unfortunately a bit of fibreglass and bog to go with it.

There's alot of space under the guards now..

What offset/width Work VS-XX's?

Theres nothing worse than wrong offsets :thumbsup:

wheel offsets are 9.5" width with -10 offset up front and 10" width with -16 offset at the back. although that's tentative... I haven't ordered the outer bands for the wheels from japan yet... will be ordering them to suit the width of the car so it just sits a couple of mm outside of flush. Being a 3 piece its really handy cos you can alter the width to taste.

WOW - thats ummm ..... nasty?

atleast the extra work will ensure it looks great, but will cost you a bunch to do.

if you can, get lots of pics of the prep work to make them work, always interested in new techniques for fixing this sort of stuff.

indeed... luckily I actually work for the shop (well used to while I was in melb) and I've seen worse kits come in on cars, and go out looking really good, so I trust that the work will get done properly.

Chris, I actually wanted to talk to you about gettin some stuff powdercoated, specifically the brakes, engine covers and wheel centres. PM?

Oooooh details on the bonnet?!?!?!

sorry the one pictured in the first post isn't the one I ended up getting. Updated now.

Got a D-Max copy bonnet in the end from Viva Garage. Driver side of the bonnet sits 1cm above the guard compared to the passenger side which sits flush. will have to cut away at it in places to make it sit flush on both sides.

here's the original in CF:

post-256-1212566065.jpg

post-256-1212566065_thumb.jpg

sorry the one pictured in the first post isn't the one I ended up getting. Updated now.

Got a D-Max copy bonnet in the end from Viva Garage. Driver side of the bonnet sits 1cm above the guard compared to the passenger side which sits flush. will have to cut away at it in places to make it sit flush on both sides.

here's the original in CF:

post-256-1212566065.jpg

post-256-1212566065_thumb.jpg

Thats pretty good looking!

Got a pic of the underside of it?

Price?

I cant shut my bonnet after the rb30 and highmount turbo - so im after a bonnet with heaps of clearance near the timing belt cover

  • 2 weeks later...

wow i cant believe you keep buying this stuff off viva as the fitment of the pieces isnt getting any better.

i had one of the type J front bars. took a bit of work to make it fit. had to pull the sides in about 100mm each side and cut a bit out of the back of the sides to i could turn my wheels. once it was painted up it looked really good. at-least for 12 hours until i smashed it up big time on a ripple strip. i would defiantly buy another one as you dont see them very often.

should look really good. keep it up.

funnily enough the Type J front bumper is the only item that fitted up perfectly with no mods :)

ah well... got BN Sport sides n rear now :cheers: car looks hektik drifter styles... but at least it suits the type J front.

Whats the number to ring re your front bar? Also, woudl they have astd rear bar layign around with goos side clips?

my standard rear bar should be at the shop still. the number is 0425855540, the guys name is Roshan, he owns driftline.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, but the narrowband is truly narrowband. So you take it out of the linear zone and it is effectively nonsense. And that linear zone is so literally narrow, that nonsense is not very far away. Unless they are flicking back and forth across the stoich point, for real, under actual control, they can't be trusted for anything except entertainment value.
    • I agree, and yet my "HRM " hat is also on, as his wideband is in disagreement with the narrowband where they used to play closer attention to each other.
    • That's the thing. Especially at idle, changing the cam angle by that much could be spewing more fuel out the exhaust courtesy of everything happening that bit later. More fuel also means more air (if the fuel didn't burn, then neither did the O2) and so the O2 sensors can start to tell interesting but misleading stories. And the specifics of what is happening could easily be affected by everything else you changed as well. And it could be dynamic, where a few revs more or less could somewhat change how the engine is breathing.
    • Good idea on the temp probe. The mv readings of the O2 sensors are very similar to one another, as is the injector pw. I went through logs in the past to see if there was a discrepancy and there is. Because they alternate up and down as narrowbands do.. they do often 'switch' as to which one is more. They were never 20%+ (more like 1-2%) so it's possible the difference between 20 and 15-17% is a similar discrepancy to 2.0% and 1.7% which I wouldn't have really noticed in the past. We did think about spacing the strut brace. Unfortunately the ~20mm that the GTR brace is lower than the GTT brace is effectively what you need to clear the vents. Moving it up would make it very uncomfortable, but it's plausible that 10mm is a unhappy medium between both hard places... The good news is.. using MR HAMMER it was actually pretty easy to bend back the bent bits to make sure the guard and headlight/new headlight tabs line up right. Yes, we used a R34 GTR guard to make sure the bolt holes all lined up with a known straight guard. As above, you can see the side skirt and the GTR guard are not meant to play together, but everyone seems to think this is a simple fix to the point where nobody who has had these talk to one another mentions how... ...so I'll just assume they know how to fix it when it comes to paint jail time again. Whoever they are. Nobody returns my calls. There's so much changed with regard to the ECU and the car.. that the next step really is to connect the scanner and attempt to drive the thing. It'll be pretty clear pretty fast how in or out everything actually is...
    • That's nasty! I think there is perhaps an inherent problem is using elastomers in such environments. The whole thing can and will get quite hot, and elastomers are not famous for their temperature resistance. On top of that, if the components are cast rubber or urethane and so on, there might be QA/QC problems with bubbles or voids in the material that could critically change their performance. They might just tear apart after being squished (presuming that any elastomers are used in compression rather than tension, I'm thinking that you squeeze one with a void in it and it tears the wall of the void to the outer edge of block, then the next time it extends or otherwise twists, it just gives up). This is all purely hypothetical, but it makes me wonder if the things that they have put into it to make it nice to use/live with are perhaps going to cause occasional failures like this. I wouldn't be getting up in arms over it, unless there are many repeats. I have personally ruined an Xtreme clutch - just an HD thing. I can't remember if it was still behind the 20 or was after the 25 went in. But it inverted some of the retaining spring/clip things around the outside. No-one could explain it. It wasn't thrashed, there wasn't heaps of torque being put through it, and there were no obvious problems other than the above. They were quite concerned by the event so they replaced it even though it was a few years old, which was very nice of them. As far as I am concerned, these things happen with clutches.
×
×
  • Create New...