Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

To cut along story short I've fitted some turbos to my GTR (I didn't look at the part number, I just fitted them), I noticed when I went to fit them that the rod on the waste gate had two settings, so I set them on the lower boost setting, but on the road I had only 4-5PSI at full boost (Not cool in a GTR, my VL turbo would have killed it).

So I changed the wastegate rods to the second hole (higher boost pressure), but the thing has way too much boost (Like i get scared and back off at 18 PSI).

Has any one had any experience with this sort of thing? Im hoping someone can help me out as I really dont want to have to change the wastegate actuators, cos that looks like a really quick 2 minute job (NOT).

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216790-dual-wastegate-settings/
Share on other sites

Hi all,

To cut along story short I've fitted some turbos to my GTR (I didn't look at the part number, I just fitted them), I noticed when I went to fit them that the rod on the waste gate had two settings, so I set them on the lower boost setting, but on the road I had only 4-5PSI at full boost (Not cool in a GTR, my VL turbo would have killed it).

So I changed the wastegate rods to the second hole (higher boost pressure), but the thing has way too much boost (Like i get scared and back off at 18 PSI).

Has any one had any experience with this sort of thing? Im hoping someone can help me out as I really dont want to have to change the wastegate actuators, cos that looks like a really quick 2 minute job (NOT).

Thanks guys

You sound like a VL owner - lazy and stupid!! So you dont know what turbo's you fitted and you have no idea what the actuators are for - cause they dont sound like anything I've heard of. f**k if you barstardised your GTR I can only imagine what the VL looks like!!

You sound like a VL owner - lazy and stupid!! So you dont know what turbo's you fitted and you have no idea what the actuators are for - cause they dont sound like anything I've heard of. f**k if you barstardised your GTR I can only imagine what the VL looks like!!

You sound like a typical rice owner. You ever got the numbers off a turbo whilst on a GTR engine???? The Rego departments wont even do it.

Look here, I asked for help to save myself some work trying to get these numbers. I actually got these turbos off a GTR that had spun a bearing.

I know what the actuators are for d$#%%@$d. And if youve never heard anything like them, then your stupid. F%$#&g stupid. Seeing your a w@#$%r I can only imagine how your palm looks. Get out of this thread please!!!!!!!

Uras, and R31nismoid, thanks for your replies. The turbos appeared standard, same cover and housing.

Iĺl hunt around for a picture if you like. But the turbos looked identical to what I removed. These type of actuator appears on turbos for sale now and then, I was hoping someone has had some experience with them.

I wish my turbos would push out more than 18PSi when the intake settles down across the power curve. what are they?

Mine are fudged N1's, but fail to push higher now.

Let us know what they are will u, I want to keep the twins, but need more pressure now.

Sorry to almost hijack, but u have the total opposite of what I am experiencing.

Remember that pressure can also be a restriction to flow across the head as well, and it could be an indication in the intake side, but only there.

Nope. Climbs initially to 23psi, and then tails off to 17psi as the revs get higher.

Mine are running at 100%... flat out now, controller is the best dual, and the actuators must be working, as I can lower the boost via it.

Even the sensors say pressure is dropping off.

unless...

Edited by Richieb

Alright, Ill post back here when I find the part number. Theyŕe off a R32 GTR that was imported for race use, but the motor was knocking so the vehicle was stripped.

Has anyone else had to get GTR turbo numbers off turbos whilst in the car??? Last time I tried I could see the front turbo number, but it didn have air con so was a bit easier, still a bitch to see thou

  • 1 year later...

I checked the turbo part numbers and they are stock r32 gtr turbos. I also checked what pressure the waste gates are opening, and it's at around 9psi on the high setting so I must have an issue with the boost solenoid or the hoses.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...