Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sold my car a few weeks ago so its time to get rid of some parts lying around.

all parts located in Birkdale/Capalaba (southside Brisbane)

pick up preferred but may post/deliver

all prices are negotiable

anyway here they are

Standard Parts

-R33 turbo rims - $150 - with tyres, will check how much tread left tommorrow

-R33 non-turbo rims - $50 - with tyres, Will check tread, one tyre have puncture which can be fixed

-R33 Manual Shifter - $20

Aftermarket Parts

-ARC Fmic Kit with Turnflow Core - $900 - Brand New Still in box and wrapping, never installed, uses standard piping route, paid $1250 from Japan

-Volk Racing F-Zero Challenge rims - $600 - 17x8 & 17x9.5 +??, tyres are pretty stuffed from what i cam tell but may still be useable, tread looks ok,

sidewall on one or two are a bit iffi, fits r33 perfect, gutter rash pretty bad on both left side rims, installed only once to see how the look/fit but never drove

on them because i wanted to get the gutter rash fixed first, looks like guy i bought them from couldn't park very well.

***more parts to come***

will get pics asap, also will add more parts tommorrow

contact me via PM or Mobile - 0401745977 or email - [email protected]

cheers Eli

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216818-r33-parts-need-to-go-negotiable/
Share on other sites

already remembered more parts

-Standard R33 Gtst Turbo Back Exhaust with cat $100

-Standard R33 Dump Pipe - $20

-Custom 3" Catback exhaust - $300 - basically a straight design, split near the end into two 4" pipes, very loud, mild steel,

if matched to a highflow dump and cat it would make a great track exhaust. or you could leave the cat out all together :D

pics tommorrow

Ahh hah! Gear shift knob! Sold! :D

I've been needing one ever since I got my car and the stupid SAAS one is always coming loose, and gets too hot in sun. The replacement one (34 or something) I got doesn't fit right (thread doesn't actually reach).

Hopefully I get a call about my car being fixed soon, otherwise I'll borrow something to pick it up.

Edited by Hell Fire

ok, more standard parts

-S2 rear wing with light - $100 - silver paint is rough, not sure if light works, never tested it

-R33 Cat - $20

-S1 Steering Wheel - $20 - bit rough but still round :down:

-2x Left side skirts, 2x right side skirts - $50 for all 4 - one in great condition, others need platic weld, see pictures

-S1 Rear bar - $50 - White, pretty good condition, no need to paint if your cars white

-Plastics thingamabobs that sit inside front wheel well - FREE!!!!! what a bargain:)

also checked size of volks which are 17x8+32 & 17x9+40

Pics

post-20984-1209453196_thumb.jpgpost-20984-1209453569_thumb.jpg

post-20984-1209453412_thumb.jpgpost-20984-1209453340_thumb.jpg

post-20984-1209453491_thumb.jpgpost-20984-1209453792_thumb.jpg

post-20984-1209453725_thumb.jpgpost-20984-1209453845_thumb.jpg

post-20984-1209453888_thumb.jpgpost-20984-1209453984_thumb.jpg

post-20984-1209453947_thumb.jpg

more pics available of condition and everything so if you want some send me a pm with your email and ill send you them

still negotiable on parts:)

cheers, eli

Edited by ELI

Aaaaa, I'll take the front inner wheel guards too :rofl: Maybe the side skirts too, completing a car is a bitch :D.

PM me with times you're available for pickup and I'll borrow the discovery :(

What's the difference structurally between the turbo and non-turbo wheels? Different inside clearance for brakes?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...