Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i'll be turning up the boost slightly on my r33 with the usual stage one mods already done (full exhaust, front mount, pod etc) and before i do so i want to get a boost gauge installed.

now i was originaly thinking of going the DIN gauge pocket that holds 3 gauges under the stereo, but i only need the boost gauge, if i do go this way what other ones can i use? air/fuel ratio gauge? oil temp etc? are these others necessary?

someone suggested that installing gauges in that position is extremly difficult to wire up/connect.

so now im thinking of going A-Pillar gauge pod for 2 gauges....

where does everyone have there boost gauges (and any others for that matter) and where is the best place to buy gauges/pods from in sydney? (eg. autometer, sparco etc)

cant make up my mind lol

cheers

Something to keep in mind: Gauges on the A pillar will attract unwanted attention, not to mension its illegal to mount a guage (or anything really) above the dashboard.. well in NSW anyway not sure about the rest

BLITZ had a set of nice DEFI gauges or Sliding performance..

Cheers,

Apart from being a defect i think its great

Easier to view then the din guage!! biggest advantage esp if you are testing the car and want to know peak levels etc.. while driving the car at the same time..

Looks great too.. I havnt had any problems with cops etc..

i have seen them mounted in those mearcat gauge pods on the right side of the dash

just above the de-mister vent

easy to read and doesnt look out of place

which one is this? you got a pic

thanks

My boost gauge is mounted behind the steering wheel / boss kit. Sits nicely and well hidden from outside.

One of the best places IMO.

I had my boost guage there... Got to make sure that the vaccum line doesnt get crimped and show incorrect readings....

I like the autoworx pod..... doesnt it cut the airflow the windows bad, or have you not noticed any real difference?>

I had my boost guage there... Got to make sure that the vaccum line doesnt get crimped and show incorrect readings....

I like the autoworx pod..... doesnt it cut the airflow the windows bad, or have you not noticed any real difference?>

Ha! Yeah I made sure the hose was straight and no crimpes. It actually came like that when I bought it so not going to mess around with it. :laughing-smiley-014:

What about corners of the guage cluster? Just above the Air Conditioning unit?.. Like this:

0712_impp_07_z%201996_nissan_skyline_gtr_r33%20interior.jpg

I think that the A Pillar would give me the Mc Shits.. especially during cornering.. and if its at night the last thing you want is a bright light in your eyes as well

And if you want an idea for another gauge.. do you do track days of give your car a good pumping? get an oil temp one.. or got a big sterio? Volt meter?

that corner pod looks great

nah no track days or thrashings....

they do lok ok, maybe even the single pillar pod would be enough

im only running stage one mods, and nufin more ever, so theres no need to to get oil temp, water temp gauges etc etc

Why not keep stock boost gauge?

If you dont do trackdays.. or go requently for a spirited drive.. then a stock one will do fine..

Gauges are used because when you modify an engine it no longer works so you constantly cheak what the engine is doing..

If you dont have a heavily modified engine and dont push the engine for long periods of time.. stock gauges do fine..

Un-necessary gauges is another wanker thing to have..

Why not keep stock boost gauge?

If you dont do trackdays.. or go requently for a spirited drive.. then a stock one will do fine..

Gauges are used because when you modify an engine it no longer works so you constantly cheak what the engine is doing..

If you dont have a heavily modified engine and dont push the engine for long periods of time.. stock gauges do fine..

Un-necessary gauges is another wanker thing to have..

yeh this is true, but if i want to run 10psi (which is where its at now im guessing with those mods) where is say 11 or 12psi on the stock gauge?

i know when it hits 7 on the stock gauge that is 14.5psi right? mine goes acouple of millimeters higher then the next line down (which is half way so around 7.25psi ?) so prob hitting 9ish psi giv or take

if i can get an acurate reading, then there is no need to go aftermarket gauge

if anyone knows how to read there boost gauge properly and has a pic and can mark where 10psi and 12psi should be, that'l be of good help

cheers

Apart from being a defect i think its great

Easier to view then the din guage!! biggest advantage esp if you are testing the car and want to know peak levels etc.. while driving the car at the same time..

Looks great too.. I havnt had any problems with cops etc..

I've know a coupe of R33's which have been over the pits (in WA) with a Mearcat pod installed and was not an issue. Definitely not a defect in VIC. VicRoads documentation says you can have anything installed so it sits below the height of the steering wheel.

Although with the proliferation of GPS units, it makes me wonder whether they get fined?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
×
×
  • Create New...