Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone Used Tarox Brakes ?

robbieraver
 Share

Recommended Posts

robbieraver Rising Star

robbieraver

Posted
Posted

Im about to try out a set of fronts for a 32GTR, they are made in italy. the kit comes with caliper, rotor, bracket, braided lines and pads of my choice of race street or semi, the pads are made by pagid.

i will be using a 350mm by 30mm rotor with a 10 piston caliper under a 17inch rim.

just want to know who has used these brakes and what they thought of them compared to others, eg AP or Brembo or .......

post-34794-1209460645_thumb.jpg

post-34794-1209460761_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216978-anyone-used-tarox-brakes/
Share on other sites
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Well if you look at the 10 piston caliper...

The main reason you run more pistons is to ensure even pad wear and pressure reducing hot spots on the pad and rotor. So the fact that the 10 piston caliper uses a square pad with a straight row of pistons rather then curved on a radius means that you dont get the benefit of running a narrower pad which curves with the rotor, and has pistons that are larger for the trailing part of the pad and smaller for the leading part of the pad. A narrower pad like most 6 pot calipers means you get to run a shallwer rotor (the heavy bit) and a larger hat (the lighter bit) so for a given rotor diameter the assembly is lighter.

If you look at ther crazy 10/12 piston calipers from the likes of Alcon that are/were used in Motorsport you can see that the piston size is dependent on the rotor direction through the caliper and the pad shape. The Tarox-10 is symmetrical front to rear with its largest piston in the middle, which is a generic solution to clocking the caliper to suit cars with leading caliper positions (Skylines) and trailing positions (Porsche/WRX etc) By that i mean look at the passenger side of the car and see of the caliper is on the right hand side of the wheel (Porsche) or left (Skyline)

So hope that quick fire response makes sense. If you look at the pad shape of a CP5555 AP 6 piston caliper and compare it to an F50 Brembo caliper pad you will get what i mean about pad shape and curvature.

I think the Tarox appeals to the "WOW, 10 piston" it must be good. I could easily be wrong, but looking at multi piston calipers from the major makers used in motorsport...thats where i am getting most of my thinking

robbieraver Rising Star

robbieraver

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Well if you look at the 10 piston caliper...

The main reason you run more pistons is to ensure even pad wear and pressure reducing hot spots on the pad and rotor. So the fact that the 10 piston caliper uses a square pad with a straight row of pistons rather then curved on a radius means that you dont get the benefit of running a narrower pad which curves with the rotor, and has pistons that are larger for the trailing part of the pad and smaller for the leading part of the pad. A narrower pad like most 6 pot calipers means you get to run a shallwer rotor (the heavy bit) and a larger hat (the lighter bit) so for a given rotor diameter the assembly is lighter.

If you look at ther crazy 10/12 piston calipers from the likes of Alcon that are/were used in Motorsport you can see that the piston size is dependent on the rotor direction through the caliper and the pad shape. The Tarox-10 is symmetrical front to rear with its largest piston in the middle, which is a generic solution to clocking the caliper to suit cars with leading caliper positions (Skylines) and trailing positions (Porsche/WRX etc) By that i mean look at the passenger side of the car and see of the caliper is on the right hand side of the wheel (Porsche) or left (Skyline)

So hope that quick fire response makes sense. If you look at the pad shape of a CP5555 AP 6 piston caliper and compare it to an F50 Brembo caliper pad you will get what i mean about pad shape and curvature.

I think the Tarox appeals to the "WOW, 10 piston" it must be good. I could easily be wrong, but looking at multi piston calipers from the major makers used in motorsport...thats where i am getting most of my thinking

interesting, but i was after some real time feed back but you have brought up some good topics, i would like to try these out as firstly work will be fitting the bill and secondly every one seems to have the ap/alcon/brembo package, these brakes ofcourse are the best, i want to try something a little different, if they dont work out, then il go ap/alcon/brembo

im not using the torox 10 in the pic, those two pics are just for show and a bit of wow :D but a totaly different one with the curved caliper and larger piston leading.

by i means keep it coming... :P

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
Posted

I have used some tarox gear on my 1970 mini cooper s race car... Brings it to a dead stop really well... Then again the car weighs about 500kgs...

Other advantage of having multipiston calipers is that it moves the clamping force closer to the edge of the disc, therefore has more leverage for stopping

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
interesting, but i was after some real time feed back but you have brought up some good topics, i would like to try these out as firstly work will be fitting the bill and secondly every one seems to have the ap/alcon/brembo package, these brakes ofcourse are the best, i want to try something a little different, if they dont work out, then il go ap/alcon/brembo

im not using the torox 10 in the pic, those two pics are just for show and a bit of wow :) but a totaly different one with the curved caliper and larger piston leading.

by i means keep it coming... :D

Sorry, lol like most of my advice i dont have any personal experience with gear, just stuff i have read and thought about when i look at gear.

On the bright side, fact is you will be running a big rotor, plenty of pad, no doubt a sporting compound with new brake lines that come with the caliper. Then you bleed new fluid through with the install so at the end of it you will have a setup that bo doubt you will be happy with.

Half the time the details is just details, you cant teall the difference

  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • hypergear
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By hypergear · Posted

      I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • cardre
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By cardre · Posted

      Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
×
×
  • Create New...