Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have looked at a few motors especially ones in gts-t's from R32 to R33, the biggest difference i seen is the cam cover, RB20 has RB20 imprinted on it and you wouldnt miss it because it is on the front top.....on the RB25 like mine doesn't have anything printed on it....as far as i know RB20's and RB26's have the imprint....hope this helps mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216981-20-or-25/#findComment-3830896
Share on other sites

The dead giveaway is that R32 engines have #5 & 6 plenum & inlet manifold runners offset towards the centre of the car whereas #1 thru 4 runners are a little bit outboard.

That applies to RB20DE, RB20DET & RB25DE as far as I know.

Edited by sonoramicommando
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216981-20-or-25/#findComment-3831124
Share on other sites

not all rb20's have RB20 stamped on the cam cover, from what i understood it was only the 89-90 model ones.

as RB SANDY has said the 25 has a raised section towards the end of the rocker cover and the 20 doesn't. also most of the 25's have a raised bump on the front came cover for the VVT. and the intake plenums are noticably different from each other. the way the oil breather line fittings are facing is also different between the two, as is the stock BOV setup, RB20's are vertical and RB25's are horizontal.

best thing to do would be to look at as many pics as you can of the two and see if you can find all the differances.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216981-20-or-25/#findComment-3831143
Share on other sites

VCT section is raised is the dead give away along with the cam covers

and also the mod plate......if it says rb25det....if it doesnt and it has one then dont buy it until they get you a mod plate...illegal otherwise.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216981-20-or-25/#findComment-3832142
Share on other sites

ah ok thanks. heaps of info, awesome. the numbers that a rb25det will put out are just so much bigger than an ej25t, so ive come to the other side. cant see this handling like the liberty did though.

also... i meant rb20 in the end of the first post but i think you guys all picked up on that.

Edited by grem
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216981-20-or-25/#findComment-3833822
Share on other sites

i know a few people who have got their RB20 and RB25 ceffy's handling pretty damn good....ohh and i think this is already mentioned but i would say that check the mod plate mate......that should give you some details

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216981-20-or-25/#findComment-3837504
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Also, the cause of fuel spills and smells from the top of the tank is almost always the rubber hoses that are up there, not the tank seal.
    • 1. No, as you say you can remove the connectors and fuel lines. Before you do make sure you remove fuel pump fuse and crank the starter a few times to release pressure, and also loosen the fuel cap (just in case the tank is slightly pressurised) as it will pump out the lines otherwise 2. Not necessary but you are right, if it is the factory pump it is at risk of failing after 25 years....Changing it is not hard but potentially not trivial as you have to make sure you have the right pickup/sock for the pump to suit the tank, need to make wiring connections (crimped butt connectors would be fine) and have to mount/adapt the new pump in the right place in the cradle. Not impossible but don't start the job if you aren't confident. Also, the plastic nut that holds that seal in place can be really hard to remove. If you don't have a fuel nut removal tool it generally requires a big screwdriver or similar to bash the ring around a few times before you can get it by hand. Also the fuel lines can be very sticky on the tank lid fittings, hose removal pliers can help or if not twist the hose on the fitting (eg with linesperson's pliers) to break the seal before you try and remove it. Finally, mark the feed and return hoses so you don't put them on backwards and seal them with an m8 bolt to stop crap getting into the lines while working. Add a little grease in the threads of the plastic lid when you go to do it back up as a gift to your future self, and make sure you put it on evenly/not cross threaded.  Having said all that, most likely the lid just needs to be either tightened or removed and put back on without being cross threaded...the seal itself is usually pretty good.
    • Another weekend and another project I have questions about.... I bought a fuel tank sender O ring to install on the car because I'm quite sus on what I've got now.  1. No "whooosh" sound when opening fuel cap 2. If I fill up full tank, there will be a small leak under the car and it comes from the top of the fuel tank, dripping along the side. Stops after a short while 3. Hot days = 50/50 chance to get high as a kite inside the cabin if the car was in the sun for too long This is what I bought: https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/1734279900 My plan was to just replace the O ring but I've got some questions: 1. Does the whole fuel pump assembly need to come out for me to replace the O ring?         Or, could I unplug all the connectors and fuel lines at the top, take off the twisty part (17343) and put in the O ring from the top?  2. Is it a very common thing for everyone to just change the pump whenever doing this?        I see the Walbro 255 gets thrown in a lot but I've got no issues with my pump so far. When I did the tune, I asked the guy to check my fuel pressure and he said there were no issues too. But is it just a good idea to change to the 255 anyway as the old unit may have been in there for so long? The 255 seems to be a direct fit for GTT (I got no soldering iron)  
    • Normal speedtek issues, bin it and go cdoo# or 8hp. So many issues with these gearsets, a mate went through 3 rebuilds and multiple parts with heat, bearing and vibration issues.  
    • I wouldn't go near them, they are rubber seals for a reason. Just chuck new cam cover seals, half moons and the spacers for the screws every decade or two. I add a really thin layer of silicone too and it seems to hold together OK  
×
×
  • Create New...