Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

im not exactly sure what has been done to the car before i bought it, but i was told the HICAS had been removed, (lock bar or just completly gone, i have no idea)

but now this little problem has started where my steering is reasonably straight untill i hit approx 80km/h and then i have to turn my wheel atleast 20degrees clockwise to keep the car straight

during the 70-80km/h range theres a deep sound coming from the rear tyres

any ideas???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217023-hicassteering-problem/
Share on other sites

stick you head under the back of the car and have a look to see if you actually have a lock bar installed. it will be just behind the diff.

i have no idea what the lock bar would look like, im not really experienced with this stuff, all i know is what i explained.

if i do have a lock bar, would u know what the prob is, or vice versa??

Sorry to hijack your thread, but for those who know.. if your odometer doesn't work.. does it affect your hicas? I have the light come on and the steering gets really hard every now n then, its tempermental..

James: I removed via a lockbar.. if you remove the steering rack you need to put something in its' place to hold the tierods (things that adjust toe and/or are used for steering) or the back wheels would flop about a hell of a lot :/

You can get lock kits such as the tomei one which retain the steering rack but use an arrangement of washers to lock the tierods in place.

Karina: Yes it will affect HICAS and the speed sensitive steering. When the little needle on the end of my speedo cable snapped and I thus had no speedo, I had to drive around with heavy steering until I put a new cable in when I installed my new dash.

I now have a lockbar in the back, no HICAS solenoid thing in the engine bay, removed all the lines. Have also got a 25 box and a 280kmh speedo, I get the HICAS light on the dash after 1-2mins of driving but my speed sensitive steering is still there.. I believe if you unplug the HICAS ecu in the boot you will lose the speedo sensitive steering..

Edit: oops just realised you said "odometer", does this mean the speedo still works but the odo doesn't??

Edited by bubba
hey guys,

im not exactly sure what has been done to the car before i bought it, but i was told the HICAS had been removed, (lock bar or just completly gone, i have no idea)

but now this little problem has started where my steering is reasonably straight untill i hit approx 80km/h and then i have to turn my wheel atleast 20degrees clockwise to keep the car straight

during the 70-80km/h range theres a deep sound coming from the rear tyres

any ideas???

hey there,

my friend and i both had this same exact problem. his was while he had hicas and mine was after i removed hicas.

the cause is air in your power steering lines.

you may have a leak which is causing air to get in, but chances are slim since the system is high pressure and you would see oil everywhere or your hicas light would stay on in your cluster. give it a couple days of driving and using the steering wheel, and it should bleed itself out. otherwise, open the power steering cylinder cap in your engine bay and turn the wheels side to side for about 10 mins. if all else fails, flush the system and start over.

hope that helps,

dave.

Karina: Yes it will affect HICAS and the speed sensitive steering. When the little needle on the end of my speedo cable snapped and I thus had no speedo, I had to drive around with heavy steering until I put a new cable in when I installed my new dash.

I now have a lockbar in the back, no HICAS solenoid thing in the engine bay, removed all the lines. Have also got a 25 box and a 280kmh speedo, I get the HICAS light on the dash after 1-2mins of driving but my speed sensitive steering is still there.. I believe if you unplug the HICAS ecu in the boot you will lose the speedo sensitive steering..

Edit: oops just realised you said "odometer", does this mean the speedo still works but the odo doesn't??

I pushed the trip reset button one day and it just stopped working. Steering got heavy from then on and the hicas light starting coming on more often. Speedo works fine.

I believe if you unplug the HICAS ecu in the boot you will lose the speedo sensitive steering..

if you unplug the hicas harness, the steering will stay stiff. you have to snip the green wire with the white trace line on the bigger harness to disconnect hicas without damaging anything.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...