Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ppl, got timing belt, water pump, idler pulley, tensioner and cam seals changed on my r32 gtst, mechanic put it all in, test drive went good, on the way back heard a 'crack' type noise and then engine started coughin etc.

pulled it apart found belt 1 tooth out.... how does this happen ???

i trust the guy enough when he says he checked everything, has this happen to anyone before

result is loss of compression on piston 2 and 6, head comes off, finds out 2 inlet valves on 2 and 6 bent ! doh !!

thanx in advance ppl

Edited by jvs007
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217155-timing-belt-jumped-1-tooth/
Share on other sites

hey ppl, got timing belt, water pump, idler pulley, tensioner and cam seals changed on my r32 gtst, mechanic put it all in, test drive went good, on the way back heard a 'crack' type noise and then engine started coughin etc.

pulled it apart found belt 1 tooth out.... how does this happen ???

i trust the guy enough when he says he checked everything, has this happen to anyone before

result is loss of compression on piston 2 and 6, head comes off, finds out 2 inlet valves on 2 and 6 bent ! doh !!

thanx in advance ppl

The only real way a belt can jump is a tooth is from lack of tension or incorrect alignment to start with. If the tension is correct then the teeth stay in mesh with the sprocket. Which belt did you install? Did it have the timing marks on it so that it is easier to align? Hopefully it gets fixed well and you have no further problems.

When u install the timing belt and lock off the tensioner one side is actually tensioned more than the other, and this uneveness causes it to move one tooth on startup. Sounds like your mechanic put it on and didnt turn the motor over to even out the belt tension out before checking the alignment of marks (lazy). I found in many old RB30s that I had to line up the belt with one tooth out up on the cam for it to line back up properly when the tension became even

Edited by Jmaac

It will probably just come down to how it was installed as Justin has said. The installation of a timing belt is pretty basic but you just have to take your time and make sure it's done right. It basically consists of just removing everything until you can get to the belt. Take off the old one, replace idler and tensioner and put the new one on with all of the marks in the right place. You then rotate the belt around two or more times and while there is still some tension on the belt tighten the tensioner. Then put everything back together. This is a simplified way of how the manual says to do it. You need to rotate the belt around so that the teeth of the belt mesh into the sprockets otherwise you get the situation explained by Justin.

Good Luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm with GTS, that's not an actual overheat issue. That's an electrical issue.
    • So, it's clearly an electrical problem. Either with the gauge itself, or the sender. It appears to be voltage sensitive (ie, alternator output affects the reading.
    • Yes, at this stage of SAU threads, I  automatically assume that anyone here knows that everything depends on each and every setup and its choice of parts and what an individual wants from the setup. I think your misunderstanding what I've said, I'm not saying your curve will move to the right.. I'm stating the opposite; that my setup has a much larger turbo than my last one, my current exhaust manifold runners are 2-3x longer than the last one, the intercooler is longer and thicker (hks 103mm thick), the itbs are now oversized from 45mm up to 49mm, and the plenum is now a larger Nismo plenum that's been port matched. As a result, I'm making more power, torque and boost 1000rpm earlier than my last setup. My curve moved left, in a big way. You guys with 800-1000+hp turbos should be considering hks v-cam or the other Japanese company Sakura who makes RB25 Neo vct adaptor kits for RB26's. they all make more power / boost / torque far earlier and higher peak numbers. Dahtone Racing modifies the Hks v-cam systems to his own specs and he also developed the worlds first and best dbw individual throttle body kits, to complement his V-cam. Every single car is 800-1200+hp and they all produce huge gains in response and peak power. 
    • I have a 2008 Skyline 370gt with about 160,000 km on the clock currently. A while ago, I noticed the temp gauge would start climbing but it comes down when I give it some throttle. I took it into the shops. The technicians comments are transcripted below. Reported they couldn't find anything wrong with the vehicle mechanically and they pressure tested the cooling system. Funnily enough, the technician commented that the temperature dropped back down when the car is stationary but this is when I'd notice the temp gauge to be climbing. Just wondering if anyone else experienced anything similar to enlighten me? Cos at the onset, the temps were going up one tick and then comes back down when I step on it. Now, the temps are climbing all the way to the top of the gauge, and it's making me very nervous lol. It also doesn't come down to the neutral position anymore. PS I do have a small exhaust leak near the drivers side caused by when I got f**ked by a really steep driveway at a mall I never visited before. Not sure if this would affect the sensor. Technician comments: Check and verify Fan/Cooling system - ALL OK max 106*C and fans operating at 100% Cools down right away. Checked Fan Operation - 55%@101*C, 85% @ 104*C and 100% @ 105*C Vehicle did not exceed these temperatures with max load. Temperature recovered back to 99*C after fan operation while vehicle Stationary.
    • It really depends on your setup. Mine is 'accidently' more suited to revving higher. bigger cams, turbo etc. Plus my super long first takes donkey years to come onto boost, so if it will move my power band to the right, maybe i'll pass on this. i have a G45-1500 going on there soon which I suspect might make it more of a fat pig.
×
×
  • Create New...