Jump to content
SAU Community

Cas Spacing... How Thick?

huddy

By huddy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

huddy Veteran

huddy

Posted
Posted

Quick question... i searched and found that i need to space the CAS if i remove the cam cover, but how much????

(basically i'm getting car tuned again, as i've just had poncams fitted, and can now tune the cam gears - so for ease and less fiddling around on the dyno i will keep the cover off...)

thanks

-Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217178-cas-spacing-how-thick/
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Just measure the thickness of the timing cover including the rubber insert. That is your thickness.

If you just use a 3mm washer or spacer you will be fine. It doesn't matter if the CAS is a tiny bit out from it position as there is no load on it and it will still turn in time with the camshaft if it was 0.25 or 0.5mm away from home.

You just need to make sure the CAS does not foul on the cam pulley and also make sure the CAS bolts don't foul either

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
push the rubber out of the timing belt cover and put it behind the cas

in that rubber there is 3 metal washers which space the cas to factory spot

+1

but i would probably split the rubber off the spacers as there is nothing holding the rubber in place with the cover off.

  • 2 years later...
rad100 Grand Master

rad100

Posted
Posted

quick question, have searched etc..

anyone know the length of rb26 bolts that hold the CAS on? the 3 of them?

just wanna make sure the ones i got arent too long and are gonna hit the cam gear.

cheers

  • 9 years later...
mrsafety Newbie

mrsafety

Posted
Posted

Just to clarify for future reference, having gone through all of this recently due do the previous owner of my car loosing all of the bolts and spacers.

Spacer: OD=12mm / ID=6.5mm / THICKNESS=5mm (measurements taken from new Nissan P/N 13525-58S00)

Bolt: 6mm dia. / 1mm pitch / 15mm length.

I'm using some OEM 25mm bolts with the integrated lock washer and flat washer (common mounting bolts for things in the engine bay), which leaves me with 22mm of exposed thread. When installed into the CAS I can see 2-3mm protruding towards the cam gear, but there's 15-20mm of clearance before it hits the cam gear.

Cheers

  • Like 4
mrsafety Newbie

mrsafety

Posted
Posted
On 6/12/2020 at 7:50 PM, mrsafety said:

Just to clarify for future reference, having gone through all of this recently due do the previous owner of my car loosing all of the bolts and spacers.

Spacer: OD=12mm / ID=6.5mm / THICKNESS=5mm (measurements taken from new Nissan P/N 13525-58S00)

Bolt: 6mm dia. / 1mm pitch / 15mm length.

I'm using some OEM 25mm bolts with the integrated lock washer and flat washer (common mounting bolts for things in the engine bay), which leaves me with 22mm of exposed thread. When installed into the CAS I can see 2-3mm protruding towards the cam gear, but there's 15-20mm of clearance before it hits the cam gear.

Cheers

Just realised a typo in my previous post. I have about 4-5mm protruding through the CAS mount and into the area where the cam gear is (NOT 22mm!).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • tsuokun
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By tsuokun · Posted

      Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...