Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, over the last few weeks i have been talking to a few people about whats happening to my 34, after speaking to a few of these people, im starting to think my 34 nismo is not an authentic one... is there any way i can tell, like check over the internet or something??

Edited by A31StRuCK
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217310-is-it-authentic/
Share on other sites

if u bought from powerplay than its nismo

* GT-R - 2.6 L RB26DETT twin-turbo I6, 332 PS (244 kW, 392 N m) (advertised as 280)

* GT-R V-Spec - Additional aero parts, brake ventilation ducts, diffuser.

* GT-R V-Spec II - As above + carbon fibre bonnet with NACA duct.

* GT-R N1 - Blueprinted N1 motor, no A/C, no stereo, no rear wiper, basic interior trim. (only 45 made)

* GT-R M-Spec - Leather interior, softer suspension with "Ripple Control" dampers, heated seats.

* GT-R V-Spec II Nür - As above V-Spec II + N1 motor, 300 km/h speedo. (only 750 made)

* GT-R M-Spec Nür - As above M-Spec + N1 motor, 300 km/h speedo. (only 250 made)

* GT-R NISMO R-tune

* GT-R NISMO Z-tune - 2.8 L (bored and stroked) RB26DETT Z2 twin-turbo I6, 500 PS (368 kW, 540 N m) Z1 and Z2 (Only 20 made)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217310-is-it-authentic/#findComment-3836910
Share on other sites

It's not a nismo car, and technically speaking it's not really a nismo kit (although other's would argue otherwise)... it's actually an Aero kitted factory GTT. Sorry to say, based on my knowledge of GTT's you don't have a "nismo" car as per se.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217310-is-it-authentic/#findComment-3836981
Share on other sites

Might be on the auction sheet, but you probably won't have that. And I take it you don't have japanese service manuals? The thing is most imports are wound back... often more than once, too many points where it could be wound back ... e.g. in japan, at auction, in australia by the importer, in australia by the dealer. If the motor and body is in good nick be satisfied with that.. with all RB's it's all down to how well it's been serviced and looked after generally.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217310-is-it-authentic/#findComment-3837004
Share on other sites

ok also is there some way to find out if the 100 thou service has been done, obviously i recieved the car before 100,000 so there would be no stickers on the door or window... car runs smooth as but cant really push it as its due the service, but i dont wanna spend that money if its already been done ya know!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217310-is-it-authentic/#findComment-3837043
Share on other sites

If you're lucky there's a sticker that sometimes comes with a new timing belt, that gets placed under the bonnet. If you don't have one, then I suggest you change it (and the waterpump, and the plugs, and all the other things you do at the 100k service at the same time).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217310-is-it-authentic/#findComment-3837049
Share on other sites

Here is the quote I got from boostworx for a 100k service.

$170 water pump

$95 timing belt

$240 labour

$77 service / safety

$65 oil

$140 redline (tran + diff)

$55 coolant

$145 dyno

$140 platinum plugs

Whoa, man thats alot eh, i can get the parts for the 100 thou service for like $360... thats belt, bearings, water pump the whole lot!

then all i need is to get the oils and fluids then get someone to do it for me!!

anyone on here know how?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217310-is-it-authentic/#findComment-3837065
Share on other sites

Well that's the list price, and it's not really that much when you think about it - just shop around and you'll see. Especially given that boostworx found a AFM problem on the dyno (picked up a lost 15rwkw), and a front suspension bracket issue... good to see some mechanics still know their trade well.

But yeah if you want to save some, do the fluids yourself, the plugs even. Not really hard dropping the oil... undo the screw on the bottom of the sump, dump the oil into a pan, change the oil filter, put screw back on, fill up with motul oil, and bob's your aunty.. umm uncle even.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217310-is-it-authentic/#findComment-3837075
Share on other sites

there are certificates issued for parts fitted by nismo after sale but doubt you have them. Is there even such a thing as a nismo gtt r34? it was probably just a gtt some stuck a few nismo things on and said it was a nismo gtt? Did you pay a premium for the car because they claimed is was a "nismo"?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217310-is-it-authentic/#findComment-3837167
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...