Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an rb20det swap into my nissan 240sx and i have to de-loom my harness a little bit and run new air flow meter wiring from the sensor to their pinout locations and i need some clearing up from some wiring people. my air flow meter harness has a short so i'll be just running new wiring for it instead of buying a new harness.

ok so here goes my list of things.

afm air signal would run to ecu pin 27

afm signal ground would run to ecu pin 26

now for the hard part having trouble tracking down where to run the power gorund and power.

afm power wire goes to where????? an ecu pin or the green eccs relay and if so the relay which wire and pin number on the relay?

and afm power ground wire goes to where???? an ecu pin or the eccs relay again, or can i just take the afm power ground on the 3d pin on the mass air sensor to a body chassis ground bolt?

alright i hope you guys can mnaybe help me and maybe even draw me up something to help.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217352-running-new-wiring-need-help-please/
Share on other sites

I have an rb20det swap into my nissan 240sx and i have to de-loom my harness a little bit and run new air flow meter wiring from the sensor to their pinout locations and i need some clearing up from some wiring people. my air flow meter harness has a short so i'll be just running new wiring for it instead of buying a new harness.

ok so here goes my list of things.

afm air signal would run to ecu pin 27

afm signal ground would run to ecu pin 26

now for the hard part having trouble tracking down where to run the power gorund and power.

afm power wire goes to where????? an ecu pin or the green eccs relay and if so the relay which wire and pin number on the relay?

and afm power ground wire goes to where???? an ecu pin or the eccs relay again, or can i just take the afm power ground on the 3d pin on the mass air sensor to a body chassis ground bolt?

alright i hope you guys can mnaybe help me and maybe even draw me up something to help.

thanks

i cant think off the top of my head sorry mate, but do you have a wiring diagram or just a pinout? it might be the eccs relay, i think the output side of the switch runs to your afm and 2 or 3 other sensors.

if you get a diagram it should be just a case of following where the wire goes to, ill try dig up my rb20 diagram and have a look.

Do you think you could send that to me too please?

engine wiring for r32 RB20det - thanks to PaulR33 and his site http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/diagr...gine-wiring.zip

Sorry, but I'm looking for an engine wiring diagram, thats body electrical. I'm looking for a diagram that contains the CAS, injectors, ignitor, coils, knock sensors, and the other bits of the engine sensors and actuators. Do you know what I'm talking about and where to find that?

yeah i nkow what ur talking about i wish i had it too..

craved that link u sent does not help people its all f*cked up you can't even read it or see where shit goes..

i need a digram with wire colors to each pin.

f*cking black lines dont help me.

wiring diagrams never show where the shit goes, cut the attitude. since i can read it have you zoomed in ?

RB20E - RB25de/t - RB26 AFM's all earth to the ECU according to wiring diagrams the wiring diagrams i have for those.

rb20det eccs control unit pin layout.

1 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #1

2 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #5

3 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #3

5 engine. A/T control input signal (bt1)

6 Sub electrical fan relay (engine temp switch)

7 Tacometeter speed signal

9 AC relay (AC cut signal)

10 Ground (ign signal system)

11 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #6

12 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #2

13 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #4

14 engine. a/t control input sigal (bt2)

15 engine. a/t control input sigal (bt3)

16 ECCS relay

18 fuel pump relay

19 Power steering switch

20 Ground (ignition signal system)

21(RX) Receive (control unit data reception)

22 (TX) Transmit (data sent from control unit)

23 Detonation sensor 1 (cyl 1-3)

24 Detonation sensor 2 (cyl 4-6)

26 Air flow meter ground

27 Air flow meter intake air quantity signal

28 Engine temp sensor

29 Exhaust gas sensor

30 Sensor ground (throttle sen, ENG temp)

31 clock (synchronization signal)

32 Monitor and check lamp (red)

38 Throttle opening output

41 Crank angle sensor (120degree signal)

42 Crank angle sensor (1 degree signal)

43 Ignition switch START signal

44 Neutral switch

45 Ignition switch (IGN)

46 AC switch

47 (CHK) Check (diagnosis activation)

48 Throttle sensor power supply

49 Control unit power supply

50 Ground (control unit)

51 Crank angle sensor (120 degree signal)

52 Crank angle sensor (1 degree signal)

53 Vehicle speed sensor

54 Throttle valve switch (idle connection pt)

56 Throttle sensor output signal

57 Throttle valve switch power supply

58 Battery power supply

59 Control unit power supply

60 Ground (control unit)

101 Injector #1

103 Injector #3

104 Fuel pump terminal voltage control output

105 Injector #2 107 Injector ground

108 Injector ground

109 Injector power supply

110 Injector #5

112 Injector #4

114 Injector #6

115 exhaust gas sensor heater ground

116 injector ground

FROM : http://www.northwestnissans.com/board/showthread.php?t=26965

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ne...rin-t49933.html

thats enough of my time helping out - ECU wiring diagrams seem to be rare for the rb20det - rb20e and rb25 and rb26 are all on the r33 engine workshop manual.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...