Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt28r Into R33 Gtr


Recommended Posts

my mate has an R33 Skyline GTR 2.6 twin turbo, So if i was to get the Garrett Gt28R what type of minor mods would be required? is the flange the same? And are the oil/water lines the same? And would the dump pipe of the GTR bolt straight up to the GT28R

cheers guys

Edited by kurd_boi
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Firstly...you do know that you need 2 of them right? Secondly...there are bolt on garrett replacements for the rb26dett...they're called 2860s and are meant for the rb26dett...search the GTR turbo upgrade thread...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive spent hours searching this site for specific technical data about all sorts of things. I spend more time using search than I do reading, its bloody anoying...

To answer the question the answer is no it wont bolt on. The T25 flanges are diferent. The distance between the bolt holes on the long side of the rectangle on the GT28R is longer than the GT2860R-5/7 turbo's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive spent hours searching this site for specific technical data about all sorts of things. I spend more time using search than I do reading, its bloody anoying...

To answer the question the answer is no it wont bolt on. The T25 flanges are diferent. The distance between the bolt holes on the long side of the rectangle on the GT28R is longer than the GT2860R-5/7 turbo's.

The T25 flanges are exactly the same the difference between the -5's and -7's is the actualy inlet hole size in the exhaust housing -7's and -5's have a hole of 38mmx 45mm

the GT28R run 38mmx49mm

the flange bolt pattern on both is 73mmx40mm

they will bolt on to your manifolds so to speak.. however the dump pipe flange is different

water lines and oil lines would bolt up.. however i dont think the 28r has the 2 bolts on the compressor housing to match up with the factory water and oil line that loops around the core to make things easier(apprently)

you'd be much better getting a pair of -5's or -7's as they do bolt up with all the factory gear.. only thing that needs modifying is the oil drain as the holes are closer together from memory however the oil drain issue would be the same with the gt28r

dont think ive missed anything..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was pretty sure that the GT28R is actually called GT2560R by Garrett. This is the turbo the was the factory turbo on S15's and is also know as a T28BB.

The GT2860RS is the disco potato and is an upgrade to the GT28R.

You GTR boys might call your turbo's by different generic names than us Silvia boys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From my understanding -7 and -5 are the last digits in the part numbers and are both gt2860r. Disco Potato was basically the first turbo in the GT series which was created because of the success of this turbo. Also I dont believe that an S15 turbo could be a gt series turbo because GT series did not even come out until after s15 had been in production at least a few years. I am pretty sure the s15 turbo is just a strait ball bearing T series.

T series = old tech.

GT series = new tech.

As far as whether the GT28r's will bolt up I would say yes with the reservation that you may need to swap in a couple R34 oil drain fittings. On garretts website it says the 2860s (-5 and -7) will bolt directly onto an R34 gtr. As far as the inlet on the compressor side they do have the same 2 bolt threaded holes as a 33. I think that rb26s13 is refering to gt2871r's and gt2876r's when he says they do not have the threaded holes because they do not

One thing is that the 2860s are the only gt28r's that do bolt up. the 2871s and 2876s will not bolt up. From my understanding 2860s are essentially N1 turbos using slightly newer technology.

Here is a link to the -5 on garretts website.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_5.htm

Edited by BlackRBS13
Link to comment
Share on other sites

From my understanding -7 and -5 are the last digits in the part numbers and are both gt2860r. Disco Potato was basically the first turbo in the GT series which was created because of the success of this turbo. Also I dont believe that an S15 turbo could be a gt series turbo because GT series did not even come out until after s15 had been in production at least a few years. I am pretty sure the s15 turbo is just a strait ball bearing T series.

T series = old tech.

GT series = new tech.

As far as whether the GT28r's will bolt up I would say yes with the reservation that you may need to swap in a couple R34 oil drain fittings. On garretts website it says the 2860s (-5 and -7) will bolt directly onto an R34 gtr. As far as the inlet on the compressor side they do have the same 2 bolt threaded holes as a 33. I think that rb26s13 is refering to gt2871r's and gt2876r's when he says they do not have the threaded holes because they do not

One thing is that the 2860s are the only gt28r's that do bolt up. the 2871s and 2876s will not bolt up. From my understanding 2860s are essentially N1 turbos using slightly newer technology.

Here is a link to the -5 on garretts website.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_5.htm

im not reffering to the 2871r's and 2876's

GT series turbos have been around for quite a while now however recently majority of the turbos got name changes and wat not.. i'll reply a bit better later if someone else doesnt clear up wat im getting at before than..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The JDM S15 100% had a GT2560R turbo that the layman calls a T28BB and GT28R. It's the domestic market that had the plain bearing T28.

Here's a quote directly from the Garrett website;

Turbochargers > GT25 Family > GT2560R - 466541 - 1

* Ball bearing turbocharger

* Oil & Water-cooled bearing system

* Internally wastegated turbine housing

* OEM turbocharger on Nissan SR20DET engine

* Upgrade turbocharger for 471171-3; outline interchangeable except compressor inlet

* T25 turbine inlet flange

* Great size for applications w/ packaging constraints

* Ideal for smaller displacement engines making up to 330 hp

As for the the GT2871R they have the same housings as the turbo mentioned above and only the wheels are different so i can't see that they won't bolt up because externally they are identical. I personally have just changed my turbo from a GT28R (GT2560R) to a GT2871R 52T and they are 100% identical from the outside.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The JDM S15 100% had a GT2560R turbo that the layman calls a T28BB and GT28R. It's the domestic market that had the plain bearing T28.

Here's a quote directly from the Garrett website;

Turbochargers > GT25 Family > GT2560R - 466541 - 1

* Ball bearing turbocharger

* Oil & Water-cooled bearing system

* Internally wastegated turbine housing

* OEM turbocharger on Nissan SR20DET engine

* Upgrade turbocharger for 471171-3; outline interchangeable except compressor inlet

* T25 turbine inlet flange

* Great size for applications w/ packaging constraints

* Ideal for smaller displacement engines making up to 330 hp

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_466541_1.htm

As for the the GT2871R they have the same housings as the turbo mentioned above and only the wheels are different so i can't see that they won't bolt up because externally they are identical. I personally have just changed my turbo from a GT28R (GT2560R) to a GT2871R 52T and they are 100% identical from the outside.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty simple question. I was about to put the transmission back in and thought I pretty much had it lined up when I noticed it seems like the pressure plate isn't flat. I was pretty careful when undoing the bolts both during initial disassembly for cleaning and when torquing them up for installation so this is pretty discouraging. I'm not sure if I accidentally bumped the pressure plate with the input shaft and bent it somehow or if it just showed up this way. Is it possible that there's just something obvious I'm not doing correctly? I'm pretty sure I was extremely careful to make sure the friction discs were seated correctly in the hub, everything lined up, flywheel torqued according to sequence, the little springs all sitting correctly in their seats, etc.  What's the play here? Do I jump straight to a new pressure plate?
    • OK. I can see that being the case. But if you live in the land of "only switching between 4.08, 4.11, 4.36" like most Skyliners, then you never encounter it. Now I perhaps understand why the crownwheel is thicker on some of the smaller numerical ratio diffs. The two stubs being the same (unequal) lengths and just swapped side to side between the different cases is a new one to me. I'm hating Nissan R200s more than ever now.
    • Reason I say this is I have seen broken ones, in drift, drag and even behind a stock Z. I do appreciate most of the time its the synchro's that go.   Trouble with quoting HP is it doesn't really say how strong the box is.  I've not seen many CD00X box's make it past a mid 9(150mph) I have seen about a stock R33 RB25 box's run a 9 too, they all go boom at some point though.   Another clue is they make gearsets for CD00X box's too, wouldn't be a market if they didn't break or have a limit people are going past.   I totally agree it is a strong box, just have to weigh up the true total cost of the conversion vs rebuilding with a good gearset. 
    • What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
×
×
  • Create New...