Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Im picking up a series 1 RB30 block,does the series 1 have oil squirters or is it the series 2 that has them? (piston)

No RB30's that I have ever seen have block mounted oil squirters, that's Commodore RB30E, Commodore RB30ET, Nissan Skyline RB30, Series 1 or Series 2. They all have the basic 1980's style conrod oil holes.

Is the series 1 block a good block to use in a 25/30 combo?

Any good block is a good block to use.

Cheers

Gary

there is another block that can be used, but it does require a fair ammount of work to the block to be able to adopt a twin cam head,its do-able and it weighs about 30ks heavier than a standard rb30 block, the cylinder walls are a shitload thicker than a conventional rb30 block and will last well over the 1000 wheel hp mark.....

this particular block comes with piston oil squiters.

2jz is in trouble now....

there is another block that can be used, but it does require a fair ammount of work to the block to be able to adopt a twin cam head,its do-able and it weighs about 30ks heavier than a standard rb30 block, the cylinder walls are a shitload thicker than a conventional rb30 block and will last well over the 1000 wheel hp mark.....

this particular block comes with piston oil squiters.

2jz is in trouble now....

And this mystery block is......?

And this mystery block is......?

My guess is RD28T, 2.8 litre (2825cc) turbo-charged diesel 6-cyl, bore: 85mm, stroke: 83mm.

I looked at it about 6 years ago, there is a lot of work required to fit the RB30 crank (86 mm stroke) and conrods. Plus the cylinder head studs don't line up with an RB25/26 head. The water jacket needs modifying and the oil feed will need some external help.

Cheers

Gary

thats teh 1, deisel, runs somthing like 22:1 compression. found in the nissan partol 92 models.... there is about 4 to 5 grand in block modification, there is a rear water jacket that needs to be welded up, and also 3 oil returns dont line up, need to modify the head aswell to compensate

Its too hard to fit oil jets to a RB30, I know of one shop that used five blocks before he found one that could take all size jets. The sand cast blocks of the RB30 was just to inconsistant with its core shift during casting for consistant fitting of the jets

alrite bud, you know everything

dont take it to heart mate, just saying, there are plenty of high powered RB30's out there, and its alot of work to get the RD28 block going with the 3 litre innards. i havent really heard of RB30 blocks letting go, bar those extreme cases of problems (tuning, oil contro, whatever), or extreme horsepower, but even with the latter there isnt an abudance of supporting evidence, not that i've seen anyway

  • 2 weeks later...

A friend of mine has a 25/30 setup.

Spec's are as follows,

STD Series 2 Block

STD rods and pistons (Motor has not been apart since god know's when)

RB25 head

STD Head ports

STD intake manifold

set of small cams

STD rb25 EX manifold

GT3540 0.86 rear

Haltech e11v2

044 pump

STD R33 box

H/D clutch

made 480HP on 20PSI pump fuel

Daily drive for the last 2 years @ 20psi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...