Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 131
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Looks like lots of the cars that have had rolled and flared guards to make way for larger rims still stick skinny little tyres on them? I am looking to do it in a quest to get 235/40/17s comfortably on the front and 255/40/17s on the back. Catch is they are semi slick sizes so more like 245 and 265 street tyres

^ looking good nav

thanks mate :wacko:

Looks like lots of the cars that have had rolled and flared guards to make way for larger rims still stick skinny little tyres on them? I am looking to do it in a quest to get 235/40/17s comfortably on the front and 255/40/17s on the back. Catch is they are semi slick sizes so more like 245 and 265 street tyres

it all depends on ur offset and width of ur tyres.

no point talking about tyre size without that.

Looks like lots of the cars that have had rolled and flared guards to make way for larger rims still stick skinny little tyres on them? I am looking to do it in a quest to get 235/40/17s comfortably on the front and 255/40/17s on the back. Catch is they are semi slick sizes so more like 245 and 265 street tyres

2559918189_98fa286ac9_o.jpg

credit to matt mead for the photo.

the front is a 235/45 re55 on a 17x9 +25 rim. gtr front guards ftw. I reckon i could fit 255/40's up front easily. I actually did the gtr guards specifically so i could fit more than a 215/45 semi.

the rear is a 235/45 re55 on a 17x9 +35 rim. They fit under the rolled guards.I added about an inch flare so i could run the 9.5 +15 NS01's for street originally but have been considering a 255/40 with the other pair of 17x9 +25 rims for track as the current rears are pretty much shot.

hope that helps some

Above looks nice. 1" flair is huge. I'm guessing you had t orepaint that afterwards?

I'm looking at bringing a guard out by 5mm to cover some bigger rims. I'd rather a pumped look rather than a fine edge lip. Is this possible?? I'm guessing it should be as it's only 5mm...

yeah, 5mm is pretty easy to get. You just keep the roller closer to vertical rather than angle the head as you do for a flare.

I haven't painted yet and it needs a bit of tlc before that happens as the shape of the flare isn't perfectly smooth but the panel hasn't kinked and the paint is good everywhere except right at the lip where the panel is folded back on itself.

my old car I rolled the guards with 3 generously proportioned mates and a peice of steam pipe jammed between the wheel and the guard. I drove backwards and forwards. It worked a treat! However, the paint was a little worse for wear.

Thanks for the info on pumping the gurad out 5mm. My guess is that it shouldn't need paint afterwards for such a small increase??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...