Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been have starting issues where when I start my car it takes about two goes before it will start.

This has only happen after I had a new fuel pump, 700cc injectors and adjustable cam gears fitted.

Is this something I can fix myself using the hand controller (PFC) or will I need to take the car back to where I got all the work/tune done?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217515-startig-issues-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

At a guess, the fuel may be draining back to the tank while its switched off. Next time you start it try giving it plenty of time to prime the fuel system before you crank it and see if this makes any difference. Could be a check valve fault, or a split hose, or loose hose, really any number of things. However if it has only been doing it since the new parts were added i would look at them first :) Check you have good fuel pressure during pump operation and after the ignition is switched off. It should hold pressure for quite awhile.

Good luck,

Deren

At a guess, the fuel may be draining back to the tank while its switched off. Next time you start it try giving it plenty of time to prime the fuel system before you crank it and see if this makes any difference. Could be a check valve fault, or a split hose, or loose hose, really any number of things. However if it has only been doing it since the new parts were added i would look at them first :thumbsup: Check you have good fuel pressure during pump operation and after the ignition is switched off. It should hold pressure for quite awhile.

Good luck,

Deren

I have an aftermarket adj fuel presser valve fitted with gauge and as soon as I turn it off the pressure drops to 0 really quickly.

I have an aftermarket adj fuel presser valve fitted with gauge and as soon as I turn it off the pressure drops to 0 really quickly.

My bet is on the fuel system. If there were no changes made to the mapping in the computer its about the only thing that could cause that. If that gauge reads like a master gauge would (it should) then thats most likely going to be the problem. Just make sure it does that even after you just switch the ignition on and the pump primes then you turn it off without starting..

Deren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t taken them out of the cases yet    inside the box is this packaging which is pretty much like a massive blister pack 
    • Purchased a NC MX5 a while ago Basic suspension mods done, BC coils and Whiteline sway bars  New DBA calipers, discs and pads Added some 17 x 8 Konig Decagrams with 215/45 17 PS5's Added some typical NA bolt on's, i.e. full exhaust and intake  Added 0.5ltrs with a MZR2.5 swap, nice bump in torques  Found a detachable hard top which is locked in for a colour match with my local paint shop in Feb 25, this also includes some PDR as it has received a few love taps from parking in the local shops when in the hands of my Minister for War and Finances, me, I park nowhere near other cars and typically park on the street The little thing is awesome, I drive it everywhere, it handles like a dream whether I'm up it or just cruising  But now,  because I'm a idiot, I keep looking at turbo kits....... did I mention I'm a idiot Why is dose so appealing  All of the NA 2.5 glory, well.......until sometime in 2025 anyway....🤪  
    • I would not be surprised if you are the only person on earth that has the interest/desire to do that lol.  The Haltech base map is a really good starting point, the car will fire easily and drive very well, even on mild boost levels. To me, following your advice sounds like some sort of ancient Chinese water torcher lol (this is not an insult Josh, never change <3)
    • Those car show concepts from the 2000's and 2010's like the Floria and IDx were brilliant and should've gone ahead, at least one of them. But neither Honda nor Nissan are thinking about affordable performance any more, which is truly sad.  Even if Toyota's liquid hydrogen ICE development reaches the point where it's commercially viable and the infrastructure to support it, Honda/Nissan would have to wait until Toyota allow fee access to their patents to offer it with any smaller performance models they released to take advantage of it.  
    • A sporty manual RWD coupe with a IL4 Honda engine would only be a good thing I assume we won't see anything released for a few years though, unless informal talks and designs have been going on for a few years,  and due to the current, and future, emmisions and safety requirements, I assume anything "sporty" they would do would be at least some hybrid thingie And hopefully anything they are thinking of has nice lines, without lots of plastic and fake bits hanging off it like that horrendous FK8 that looked like it was designed by a 13 year old The other issue of course in the current market is cost, currently the type R is around $70k, a twin is around $50k Meh, I'm old and grumpy and would rather buy a older model car and waste my coin on that than buying anything currently available new  
×
×
  • Create New...