Jump to content
SAU Community

Please Help! Vic R34 Gtr Engine # Doesn't Match?!?!


Recommended Posts

Hi I am planning to buy a R34 GTR private sale.

The steel plate with the VIN/Engine number in the rear left engine bay is stamped/engraved.

I read on this forum that if it is engraved then it might be stolen - factory plates have the details PRINTED, not engraved on them.

The VIN matches what Vicroads tells me, but the engine number is not the same as that stamped on the plate. The guy told me not to pay any attention to that as that was the stamp in Japan, and the engine number would be different in Australia?!?!?!

He is sure the engine hasn't been swapped.

The compliance plate is a red/mauve printed plate on the left hand side of the engine bay, about halfway down.

Just wondering what you guys think about this, is it dodgy? I was originally planning to buy it in the next few days.

Cheers. Any advice would be greatly welcome.

GEt the engine number off the block and call vic roads. If it has been registered before they will have record of it and can also tell you if it's a stolen motor.

The original engine number will also be on one of the ID tags in the engine bay. check that the number on the block matches that tag.

Engraved VINs are fine.

I've had a few cars like this.

And even if the engine number doesn't match (provided it passes a 'stolen' check) that's fine also, the engine could have simply been replaced (however, whether

you want to buy a car with a swapped RB26 is a different issue.)

Thanks that's good advice.

Dave1200, do you know where I can find this engine ID tag in the engine bay of a 2001 Series 2 R34 GTR non-vspec???

I didn't see any other tags apart from the VIN plate and compliance plate, but I wasn't looking for any, so I might have missed it.

Cheers.

Thanks that's good advice.

Dave1200, do you know where I can find this engine ID tag in the engine bay of a 2001 Series 2 R34 GTR non-vspec???

I didn't see any other tags apart from the VIN plate and compliance plate, but I wasn't looking for any, so I might have missed it.

Cheers.

Dave is right, it will be on the block also. Try the front to start with underneath the cams but if not either side by down through the gaps.

Found this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/N1...umber+R34+where

It might pay to use the software some of the guys have access to on here, think it is nissfast.

Can you PM me the car out of interest please. Don't worry not going to buy it instead!

if you call 131171 and use the prompts to check a vehicle....all you need to do is say the reg number and the recorded voice at the other end will tell you the VIN,engine number,date of reg expiry and if it been through the VIV system ect.......its a 24 hour system so you can do it anytime.....just give them the reg and it will sing like elvis giving anyone the details of your vehicle,i actually think its a breach privacy myself and shouldnt be allowed.....imagine the amount of false-e-fying you could do and shit you could get innocent ppl in

Edited by ylwgtr2

Before you hand over your hard earned. If you suspect it is stolen, look into it as much as you possibly can and if you find it doesnt match up then report the seller or just forget about it and look elsewhere, its not worth the loss if it turns out to be stolen.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...