Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There really isnt any decent options on the market at the moment.

There is the usual ebay/chinese type ones which are cheap, and not exactly the best quality, but i wouldnt want one on my car.

The only real "decent" options are buying a HPI one from justjap, but there are very expensive at over $1000, they would be ALOT better made than the cheap chineses ones though, also Kazama make one similar to the HPI version but there are very hard to find and very expensive aswell

Apexi and HKS (i think Greddy/Trust make one too) make a cast low mount manifold for the rb20/rb25 but this dosent mount the turbo in the stock position so that wouldnt really be a good option either unless your willing to modify a few things, in the end the cost vs gain isnt really worth it with these two options.

There is another option which is getting your stock manifold honed/ported, a few people have had good results from that by what ive read, not sure to on cost.

The only other option is to get one custom made, which again will be expensive, i actually asked 6BOOST a while ago in a thread if he has anything/would be willing to make anything for a rb20/rb25 with the turbo in the stock position, he basically said no (if i can remeber correctly) i think his reasons were that it would be very hard to design/make one that actually fits in the stock position and would give decent gains as there is very little space to work with, you cant fit a decent collecter in that area etc etc.

So really there isnt mani options, unless your willing to spend a bit of money!

Edited by nizmo_freek

Im in the same position

Im thinkin bout going after market low mount cheap chinese manifold (can get one cheap)

atm just using the stock rb25 mani with kkr turbo

Want to go 4 my final tune soon down brisbane and not sure if i should upgrade the manifold?

Are the cheap manifolds prone to cracking under higher boost 18psi etc

Would i be better off keeping my standard cast manifold.

Juz

It has been proven time and time again that there is no benefit in running these china lowmount manifolds, if you need a lowmount, the only option worth considering (over a stock one which is fine for 300rwkw) is an HKS or Trust cast manifold.

hey guys, i have the HPI low mount and its awesome. it was over $1400 for it from justjap...so like wow expensive...

but i dont know about you but once you put new gaskets on, new studs/bolts/nuts/etc i wouldnt want to be taking all that off again...the labour is the big killer!

so do it right once from the beginning and you wont look back. with the HPI one there was no spacers or anything like that required. my hks gtrs fitted but beautiful. what you will need made up thoug is a BOV return pipe and a new intake pipe and they wont fit at all...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...