Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by rob77

I'll be going with a bosch 910, $200

Is that brand new or 2nd hand? How much does it flow ? (I'll be buggered if i can find the thread where someone listest the stock GTS-T + GTR vs the Bosch fuel pumps grrr).

Rob , i know you've used only top quality gear (and from the looks of it have got top quality results so far) and so the cost will be up there, but would you mind posting a ballpark figure for the cooler/turbo/wastegate package all up. If not, fine, i respect that :P

good luck with it all, can't wait to see how it goes when everything's been sorted and tuned.

$2650 on the trust cooler fitted. Should have gone with a local made core I think or got it off nengun would have been a lot cheaper. $1500 on buying the turob 2nd hand. $150 to machine the tips on the exhaust wheel (cos it was on a rotary and it let an apex seal go and damaged the turbine, this could also be why its taking so long to spool) and then balance the compressor wheel/exhaust wheel shaft and then $1500 drive in and out. This comprises of removing the old turbo, modifying the exhaust housing to bolt the turbosmart wastegate onto, the new 35mm ultra gate, bolting on the new turbo, braided oil line to suit the turbo, blocking the water line, new dump pipe to cat and wastegate line plumbed back into dump pipe. Plus there is probably a few incidentals in there as well. Next is the bosch fuel pump, this week more than likely as I dont think the stock pump is going to last long (not really driving the car hard at the moment as it takes too long to spool, plus its not really healthy running so rich when boost comes on), then 6 new sard 550cc injectors (might go 850cc overkill, just cos they cost the same as 550cc) and the wolf3d ecu. So there's another $3000 to be spent :D Give me a couple of months for the ecu+injectors... depends on the tax return, although water and land rates have just turned up, spoiling my modifying fun :mad:

Whats the fuel mileage like driving around town not using boost. Thats the -ONLY- reason i could see for using a turbo that doesn't hit hard until 4,600rpm. By 4,600rpm a stock GTS-T turbo has already been in action for over 2.000rpm.

*shakes head*

Originally posted by benm

Whats the fuel mileage like driving around town not using boost. Thats the -ONLY- reason i could see for using a turbo that doesn't hit hard until 4,600rpm. By 4,600rpm a stock GTS-T turbo has already been in action for over 2.000rpm.  

*shakes head*

Have a look at my thread in forced induction, you'll see my dyno curves for AFR and boost. The car, once fitted, with a aftermarket ecu will fatten up the mid range hugely and should make the turbo spool quicker. You can see from about 4700rpm to 6200rpm I'm running an AFR of 11.0/10.9 thats hugely rich, plus the stock ecu is retarding the timing as well. Lets wait a few months till the fuel system is sorted and the ecu in and tuned and see what happens. For the power I wanted, and the engine being on stock internals, I had to find a turbo that would give me enough HP at a lowish boost and I think you will be hard pressed to find a aftermarket turbo that flows enough for a decent amount of HP without a bit of lag. I think the HPI r34 turbo is a ball bearing and that hits full boost around 4000rpm. I agree about the stock turbo being great for spool after driving my car around for the past few days, but the hit of power is amazing when it does spool :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And also there were for sale scams and the like. For sale posts need piccies, and not having piccies makes it harder to do a driveby scam.
    • And I forgot to add my *** footnote to the above post, which was that the pipework mods would be even more significant than what had to be done for the highflow. So just add that onto the list. Pipework mods are no killer, just made the tasklist longer at a time when extra tasks were not welcome.
    • I mean he could post them to imgur or the like and create a link. But yeah, spam bots absolutely will post pictures in their first posts.
    • Ah ok, reason I asked was for the sake of not having to upgrade everything if the turbo couldn't be capped.
    • pffft! My alignments are starting to take 3-4 weeks each. Bugger overnight - that would be a dream! Overnight is when I leave it on stands with the rear suspension in pieces, hoping I can remember where I was at when I come back to it. I have to set the car up on a level surface so I can get decent camber measurements, then try to set the RUCAs to the right length to get that right. Then I have to put the car somewhere else where I have enough room to set up the bumpsteer gauge (laser, paper, mirror), so I can dial out that. Then I need to go measure camber again because changing the tension arm length affects that also. Then I need to measure toe, and I can't do that to my own satisfaction at home, so I have to put it on an actual aligner. Then I have to go back and fix the camber again, and if that took more than a half a turn, decide if I want to set up the bumpsteer measurements again. I previously had the bumpsteer almost completely banished and then I started changing things again! And that's only the rear end. Not even gotten to talking about the front yet. And this has been going on in the context of me discovering a seized bolt in the LHR FUCA bush at the upright, hence needing total disassembly to replace that bush and the others that were not far away from the same outcome, replacing sphericals in the front end and making a mistake that resulted in needing to do it again, which is only half done right now. It's a selfmade nightmare. Only have self to blame, etc etc. But regardless, I am so complelely unable to utilise the services of a normal wheel aligner that I have no choice. I haven't found a shop in my city that does "race" alignments - and by that I don't mean I want my car to be set up for racing, but the set of adjustments that I have available and that need to be used to do the alignment are the same as you'd find on a race car. I haven't looked everywhere, but there doesn't appear to be the equivalent of the motorsport focused shops that are present in Sydney and Melbourne. And such an alignment would cost $300, and you only want to do it once in a while, and you don't want to find out that you have to replace bushes and bearings and such while you are spending that $300 so you have to come back and spend it again a week later. So I stay living in my self made nightmare for the moment.  
×
×
  • Create New...