Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need to upgrade my AFM so I guess I have to get a Z32 AFM.

reason: powerFC reports AFM is maxing out with the boost i'm running.

I'd like to know what parts I need... people have mentioned you can get the AFM quite easily but I need different wiring?

If anyone knows of any for sale/ or prices I should be paying for it could you let me know.

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21765-stock-afm-z32-afm/
Share on other sites

I understand that your AFM may be maxing out, but your car can still be tuned correctly using the std AFM.

Doesnt the Power Fc make an allowance by way of a fudge factor, a constant that allows the ECU to interpolate values beyond the factory AFM range.

I dont think by adding a Z32 AFM you will reap more power, just makes the tuning easier, so has to be weighed up whether it is worth the expense.

If it were impossible to tune correctly with the factory AFM i would understand all the fuss, but i dont think this is the case.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21765-stock-afm-z32-afm/#findComment-462560
Share on other sites

yep for sure...that is a good reason to justify it. I find my AFM max's out at 5000rpm on 1 bar, 6000rpm on 0.8bar so therefore I don't spend much time above these rev ranges and therefore cant justify an AFM.

But at your 17psi I imagine the stock AFM would max out at 5V at around 4000rpm?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21765-stock-afm-z32-afm/#findComment-467765
Share on other sites

Does the power FC have a set fuel map regardless of boost pressure or is it dynamic like the stock ECU? Can someone explain to me the relationship between fuel usage and air intake and boost level in regards to the way the powerFC is tuned for each?

Hey Mark....I start at 2pm mate so I've got every morning free. You at work now I take it....wasting company time on the internet? :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21765-stock-afm-z32-afm/#findComment-467822
Share on other sites

Yep im working now. I'll be finished at 5:30pm while you'll be just warming up.

You have 200rwkw? I only have 252rwhp which is somewhere near 190rwkw. What have you got on that new car again, and did you get it tuned recently after putting it on the dyno the day I got my bonnet?

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21765-stock-afm-z32-afm/#findComment-467836
Share on other sites

I haven't had it tuned since that day it was missing badly on the dyno at UAS. I took out the wrongly gapped iridium plugs the previous owner had in and I put in some cheap coppers gapped correctly. It now pulls nicely up to 7000rpm with no missing as my quick lap times at Wakefield showed :)

So I don't have an exact figure....it's probably about 190-195rwkw at 1 bar. Gotta get it tuned properly soon as I get some money together because it's running so rich I only get 15-16L/100km!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21765-stock-afm-z32-afm/#findComment-467867
Share on other sites

I'm averaging (from memory) about 13L/100km. I've been keeping a database of my fuel consumption since I started to mod my car (begining of this year) but that database is at home.

I've sent off a few emails to people who can possibly get me a Z32 AFM so i'm waiting to hear the prices. Nick was telling me on the weekend that I need to get the Z32 plus the plug because the one on the skyline doesnt fit.

I got quoted $850 for a brand new Z32 from Col Crawford dealership so there is no way i'm going for a new one.

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21765-stock-afm-z32-afm/#findComment-467879
Share on other sites

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by MRK25T

I'm averaging (from memory) about 13L/100km. I've been keeping a database of my fuel consumption since I started to mod my car (begining of this year) but that database is at home.

I've sent off a few emails to people who can possibly get me a Z32 AFM so i'm waiting to hear the prices. Nick was telling me on the weekend that I need to get the Z32 plus the plug because the one on the skyline doesnt fit.

I got quoted $850 for a brand new Z32 from Col Crawford dealership so there is no way i'm going for a new one.

Mark

pfft $850?? U can get 1 through the forums here or from jap importers for around $350!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21765-stock-afm-z32-afm/#findComment-468684
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...