Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

i have tried looking, but i cant find any clear answers to how to remove the rear seat in R33 GTST

I need to re install stock springs for a RWC and i have done this in my GTR 32 but that did not require rear seat removal

Can someone PLEASE

tell me how to remove the rear seat/parcel shelf, so i can remove the rear shocks/springs

thanks heaps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217702-removing-the-rear-seat-r33/
Share on other sites

Two bolts (one each side) at the bottom of the rear seat. Undo them, pull the seat (bottom half) up and it will dislodge from two tight plugs (may require a big jolt to pull them out). Pull that out of the way.

Two or three bolts holding the top half of the seat down the bottom where you have removed the other part of the seat. Undo them and pull it up out. Parcel shelf you carefully pull out (dont forget to unplug speakers). I dont think there is any bolts from memory just plugs that pop out.

Its very simple but just make sure you have un-done all bolts before trying to pop the plugs.

Two bolts (one each side) at the bottom of the rear seat. Undo them, pull the seat (bottom half) up and it will dislodge from two tight plugs (may require a big jolt to pull them out). Pull that out of the way.

Two or three bolts holding the top half of the seat down the bottom where you have removed the other part of the seat. Undo them and pull it up out. Parcel shelf you carefully pull out (dont forget to unplug speakers). I dont think there is any bolts from memory just plugs that pop out.

Its very simple but just make sure you have un-done all bolts before trying to pop the plugs.

the first two bolts,

are they accessed from the boot or "under" the seat in the back

the only reason i ask is i dont have the car here and i want to suss this out so on the w/e when i get it i know exactly what to do

cheers

hey mate,these pics shud pritty much explain it all for you. the 2nd picture with the 2 half circles is about where the other 2 bolts are that hold the rear part of the seat in.the bolts are easy to get out but the clips on the bottom half of the seat will probly get you! i find it alot easier to use a very long screw driver as a lever inbetween the seat and the floor.

Jack

post-38410-1209994361_thumb.jpg

post-38410-1209994453_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Um.... This is not easy. I will have a fiddle with it, but make no promises. I think, given the explicit resistances vs temperature, and your ECU measured voltages, it should be possible to match them up. I will do that by assuming a 5V supply from ECU to sensor, find out how much current would have to flow to produce that voltage, then use that current as a .... nah f**k. That won't work. The supply voltage is fixed, but there's nothing to say that the ECU regulates the current too. Um... I dunno. I guess there's a voltage divider setup in the ECU. As in, there's another resistance between the ECU's sense terminal and ground. That way, as the sensor resistance changes, that's how they get a floating voltage that varies with the temperature, without having to control the current. Give me a minute or 3.
    • *that* is a question for chatgpt (or someone that understands maths....but I'd try chatty). Drop them the table and ask for the formula
    • Alright. Exhaust has been looked at, and booked in 'soon'. I'm not 100% convinced it's going to be as good as possible but I'm going to go with it anyway. If I get a reasonable thing that works for 10 years I mean that's twice as long as I've lived with the current one. I have a more pressing issue. I have fixed my MPVI3 (by buying a new one). Excellently, one can wire in analog 0-5v inputs to the ECU itself. I had wideband already via Serial so I also wired it in via the direct input. The idea being I can use the standalone logging without a laptop and have Wideband data in it. The other wire I thought I'd use oil temp. This is where I've gone crazy. HPTuners requires you to implement a formula so you know how much volts = how much temp. This seems relatively simple to me. However I cannot find the scale for this anywhere on the internet, nor decipher how to figure it out without removing the sensor from the car. All I know is that voltage actually goes up as temperature goes down. I am using the actual gauge, so I can see what the temp is. The signal wire has been branched off into the MPVI3. EXAMPLE: 2.68v = 58C 2.7 = 57C 2.74v = 56C 2.8V = 54C 3.06V = 49C 3.18V = 47C 3.37V = 43C I think the gauge is 50-150C. It may be more. It may be less, because I can't find it for the love of f**k. It appears all the information about the gauges I have has been scoured from the internet, but the sender is VDO 320.021 I believe the resistance chart is this How the f**k do I convert this to a voltage? Once I have a voltage... I then have to perform this transform of said voltage to show it in the scanner: https://www.hptuners.com/help/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm @GTSBoy you're probably my only hope here TEST YOUR MIGHT
    • Here’s the updated and installed muse replica nismo ones … very happy with the outcome. Eventhough I painted my whole rear end due to my rich idle lol. 
    • Hmm. I had a good look (w/o searching, because I'm not logging in) and couldn't see it either. I distinctly recall the thread, not many weeks ago. It must have been removed or perhaps put into the back section. If it was in Off Topic you should at least have been able to search it up. So if I'm not hallucinating, it is fairly decently removed.
×
×
  • Create New...