Jump to content
SAU Community

GTR v LF-A  

153 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Okay, so like everyone else i felt a special stirring in the pants when i saw how gorgeous the GTR is in the steel. But now i've seen the shots of the LF-A being punted around Nurburgring I'm starting to think of the opinion that the Lexus is a more attractive looking machine than the GTR.

I pray that one day i'm in the position to be facing this dilemma, but i'd seriously consider the LF-A as a purchase over the GTR just for the way it looks and the intoxicating V10 sound.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217742-gtr-v-lf-a/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

And hats off to Lexus/Toyota. As part of the cars development they are racing it in the upcomign LeMans 25hr race. Largeyl std, with only safety and fuel cell mods for compliance to regs, the thing is going to be raced in its intended relaease state of tune.

They are also using young engineers etc do that they get valuable experience, so great for development of staff as well.

If they bag a good result then its great for bragging rights, if they suck they can blame the young team and the fact that the car is still in its development phase.

First impression is it has it ont he GTR for me. Looks brilliant, sounds emotive, the only question is performance?!?! That said the R35s look is realy growing on me and i am sure an exhaust change will make the note a bit more emotive

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217742-gtr-v-lf-a/#findComment-3842586
Share on other sites

If Toyota have the audacity to charge $163,000 for a queer looking luxo-barge like the SC430, I can only imagine how exorbitantly priced the LF-A will be.

So even if the production version matches the R35 'Ring time, you can expect to pay a 911-GT3-style price of admission to have your more aesthetically pleasing bodywork.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217742-gtr-v-lf-a/#findComment-3844808
Share on other sites

All weather conditions? Who in their right mind tries to punt a performance car quickly in the rain? Visibility sux, roads have oil weeping out of them. When its wet its A to B time. SO have never understood the whoel traction in the wet thing, Sure its nice not to be thrown off the road, but any decent car is perfectly safe in the wet. Now if we are actually racing, then sure its a bonus. But who of us if we owned either of these cars would be racing them?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217742-gtr-v-lf-a/#findComment-3845503
Share on other sites

Hats off to you then. I cant afford one, so no point me even thinking about it. Though, if i was going to track one i wodl be concerned about the cost of tyres and pads for one. But also after 18 months of playing with one at 5-6 track days a year what is the gearbox going to be like. Not to mention the kms on the engine which i read needs to be freshened before the old RB26 needed a timing belt change :laugh:

To me, Nissan have doen wonderful things with the GTR, but they have forgotten the roots of the brand. ie a Datsun that is cheap and reliable to get performance out of for a long time :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217742-gtr-v-lf-a/#findComment-3845837
Share on other sites

that engine rebuilt at 100,000kms or every year or whatever is BS. it's a rumour spread by certain people to disuade folk from buying cars without nissan warranty. the plasma coating is supposed to be good for over 500,000kms and some say as many as 1,000,000! on top of that it is only microns thick. 150 of them and wears no more than 10 microns per 100,000kms!

but you are right, it will be a bloody expensive car to track with tyres and pads costing a bomb. also the general wear on the thing wont be too nice. sandblasted front half after all those 200k+ runs down the straight, lots of underbody damage from ripple strips and gravel traps, bushes all shagged from hard use etc. I guess it's no different to any car but it's a big difference when some are starting with a $20K R32 and some are starting with a $150K R35....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217742-gtr-v-lf-a/#findComment-3845921
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...