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Just a quick question.

Why didn't you hide the return pipe behind the fmic, instead of coming back under it.

I think it would look a lot neater and make fark all difference to the flow of the cooler.

EAS Performance did all my piping and fabrication work on my car. Contact details below.

Old Setup:

post-1811-1210078978_thumb.jpg

New Setup:

post-1811-1210079094_thumb.jpg

The piping I used was pre made to run this way, as I used BLITZ piping.

It would work running it behind though, a mate has it like this on this VL.

You can make your own piping, buy some exhuast bends (mandrel) and some tube, tack it together and get someone to finish welding it.

It might be mild steel but its easy to do, and not to expensive. If you need tube I can supply some to you as I have a heap of 2.5 inch tube at work.

Mandrel bends are avalible at truck bits for around $10 bucks a bend (don't quote me on price).

Thoughts on mild steel piping? Painted on the outside of course.

where do i get these bends from? Truck Bits? is that a shop?

Do mandrel (dunno what they are lol) bends come sharp U turns?

Lemme know where i can obtain this stuff from and ill look into it further

Thanks for the help thus far :(

Honestly $200-$300 is not a steep price for the work involved and parts needed. To get it done properly, it's not going to be a $100 job.

The problem today, is that people look at these mass produced, badly fitting, China kits and use that as a base price. Well in China workers get paid $20 a week, use shit material, and produce a poor quality final product. Just because you need half a kit doesn't mean it will cost half the price to get it custom done.

Yeh Truck bits is a buisness, a mandrel bend means. When bent the pipes internal diamiter does not change like a convetional bend, mandrel alows air to flow without resriction. Truck bits is on south gipsland hwy in hampton park. your local exhaus place can supple these also.

Honestly $200-$300 is not a steep price for the work involved and parts needed. To get it done properly, it's not going to be a $100 job

ye thats what they all seemed to say, but for the price. i could through in some extra and get the kit...and know it would sit flush with my bar cause the actual core is smaller 600x260 insteal of 600x300.

With the current cooler atm it seems like the whole pipe would hang down, and doesnt seem to be room to run it behind. which would just hit every hump and bump

But, i dont no whehter to get a KIT or not bother and just get a R34 SMIC

hard decision lol

"Honestly $200-$300 is not a steep price for the work involved and parts needed. To get it done properly, it's not going to be a $100 job"

I did my whole lot including paint for $260 but i waited and got all the pars off the net and did it myself. DIY saves heaps of $$ and is a great way to learn mor about your car.

I got my cooler for a STEAL at $90 Ebay

Piping was $150 off sau

Then paint and a few clamps and other parts needed $50

Best money iv ever spent on a car :(

"Honestly $200-$300 is not a steep price for the work involved and parts needed. To get it done properly, it's not going to be a $100 job"

I did my whole lot including paint for $260 but i waited and got all the pars off the net and did it myself. DIY saves heaps of $$ and is a great way to learn mor about your car.

I got my cooler for a STEAL at $90 Ebay

Piping was $150 off sau

Then paint and a few clamps and other parts needed $50

Best money iv ever spent on a car :(

Well you stated the magic, money saving, phrase: DIY :laugh:

Mechanic's do it to earn money, so it need to be worth while.

Back on topic, My brother recently got a stagea and has decided to go with the cooling pro stealth kit as he is not very DIY lol.

It all comes down to how much money you are prepared to spend and how fast you want it. If its not somthing you need straight away and your good with your hands have a go at it.

If not you can buy the kit and have it in but the end of the week if necessary.

Did you notice a difference when fitting the 34 cooler? or much of a muchness from the stock.

They go for about $150?

Yeah i did notice the difference. Boost seemed to have crept up a bit. Seems to also run a bit cooler. Plus i got it in preparation for some POWAR :P

Mainly i wanted it because it looked stock etc.

  • 3 months later...
Does any part of the front bar reo need to be cut, trimmed or bashed to fit this kit?

Please help!!

Anyone knows the answer to this? I am interested as well. A guy in the forum with nick name fishy stated that he had to trim the edge of the 'reo' bar. My question as below. Anyone can help?

What do you mean when you say you have to trim the edge of the 'reo' bar? what is a 'reo' bar? I live in Victoria and at the area i live in the boys in blue will ping and ask for an engineer's cert if you any structural changes to the front end of the vehicle. Even a hole in a "structural" LHS apron! (All to do with ADR69 airbags - timing of airbags etc, a bit of a w#@k)

But plastic bits on the bumper is no problems when i checked with an engineer. Can you kindly explain? Any pics of where you had to trim any metal reinforcement at the front end? Thanks Fishy. Great work. I have a GTT with factory nismo front bar and really keen to buy this kit.

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