Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hm. what i usually do is when the tank is about half way, ill jump on fuel watch and see whether today or tomorrow will b cheaper, then i will fill up on watever the cheapest day is... im too lazy to do partial fill ups, just fill it to the top!

I didnt buy a skyline to worry too much about fuel anyway. :ermm::D

With current petrol prices, keeping a turbo (esp boosted) Skyline is becoming a bit of a joke.

Most of the guys and girls on here that own Skylines struggle to fill up a tank every week... add the rising interest rates and rent + food prices and so on and suddenly you gotta be crazy driving anything that has a bigger than 2 litres capacity :)

I just sold my Skyline after 2 years of ownership to buy a newish Corolla soon, I hope to be back to owning a Skyline... R35 GTR within 4-5 years when I can pay cash for it or at least 3/4 of it and drive it on weekends.

Corolla FTW :P

heres another one , always fill 2 cents more so it gets rounded down. Times are getting tough :)

haha i like your thinking.

mines always on 1/4 tank(plenty to get to the servo)

i have a local BP that i always use,so being on 1/4 isn't an inconvenience for me as i have the BP's phone number and ring them

before i bother leaving home to find out they are out of Ultimate like most other servos.

And i only drive it weekends....work ute and excel FTW

I am sure your fuel pump will appreciate this... :stupid:

I see you aren't of the same view?

Are you assuming that the fuel at the very bottom of the tank (where the fuel pump pick up is acutally located anyway) is somehow worse when there is less fuel or are you talking about concerns due to some 'spirted driving' around a corner on semi comps and the fuel pump sucks up air?

I have found that getting more of the 'old fuel' out in this fashion allows for less moisture and degredation. I've found in fuel cells there can be some interesting sludge build up over a period of time with old fuel if it's left around. A well used race car cell, even an old one is a pretty clean thing (it gets emptied alot). The greater and complete aggitation of the fuel at the bottom of the tank when it is relatively lower seems to keep the tank cleaner. It's an easy idea to test with a pond. Smaller amounts of water will 'swirl' faster keeping the bottom of the pond cleaner. A deeper pong with the same pump will move much slower. In terms of sludge build up in cars fuel tank, the idea is the same. We all know octane levels drop and fuel generall degrades as it ages and it doesn't actually take very long. The practice of the ' top up' guarentees a higher proportion of older fuel in the mix and if coupled with a full tank the swirl is kept slow and the aggitation less.

Having said that I've just been going off what I know or think, happy to be enlightened. :domokun:

I see you aren't of the same view?

Are you assuming that the fuel at the very bottom of the tank (where the fuel pump pick up is acutally located anyway) is somehow worse when there is less fuel or are you talking about concerns due to some 'spirted driving' around a corner on semi comps and the fuel pump sucks up air?

I have found that getting more of the 'old fuel' out in this fashion allows for less moisture and degredation. I've found in fuel cells there can be some interesting sludge build up over a period of time with old fuel if it's left around. A well used race car cell, even an old one is a pretty clean thing (it gets emptied alot). The greater and complete aggitation of the fuel at the bottom of the tank when it is relatively lower seems to keep the tank cleaner. It's an easy idea to test with a pond. Smaller amounts of water will 'swirl' faster keeping the bottom of the pond cleaner. A deeper pong with the same pump will move much slower. In terms of sludge build up in cars fuel tank, the idea is the same. We all know octane levels drop and fuel generall degrades as it ages and it doesn't actually take very long. The practice of the ' top up' guarentees a higher proportion of older fuel in the mix and if coupled with a full tank the swirl is kept slow and the aggitation less.

Having said that I've just been going off what I know or think, happy to be enlightened. :)

Ask yourself this, whats easier, sucking a slurpee that is still full or when its nearly finished? The same goes for your fuel pump...

The petrol also serves as a coolant for the petrol pump, so if you are running very low, you are not cooling it down effectively.

BTW fuel pumps are around 800 bucks brand new, if you can afford it easy then keep doing what you are doing. :banana:

Ask yourself this, whats easier, sucking a slurpee that is still full or when its nearly finished? The same goes for your fuel pump...

The petrol also serves as a coolant for the petrol pump, so if you are running very low, you are not cooling it down effectively.

BTW fuel pumps are around 800 bucks brand new, if you can afford it easy then keep doing what you are doing. :banana:

Ah I see, you have assumed that I meant low fuel to the point where air is being sucked in.

Thats an assumption beyond what I am suggesting (ie: I am not saying run your fuel down so you are at risk of stopping by the side of the road).

Hopefully you now understand what I am talking about in terms of 'sludge'. This sludge can not only shorten the life of the fuel pump but, buggers up injectors and other things as well.

This is why there is a huge market for 'fuel system cleaners' due to the practice of retaining old fuel in the tank due to the 'top up' mentality.

I my rather long experience of doing this over a few decades, but I think my explanation hasn't been put very clearly.

So to clarify. The concept of running the tank 'down' doesn't mean you run it down to vapours, thats pretty silly. But, running the tank down to a safe level ensures you have litte 'old fuel' retained in the tank and ensures better aggitation of fine particals that may settle to cause a sediment sludge. :)

Ah I see, you have assumed that I meant low fuel to the point where air is being sucked in.

Thats an assumption beyond what I am suggesting (ie: I am not saying run your fuel down so you are at risk of stopping by the side of the road).

Hopefully you now understand what I am talking about in terms of 'sludge'. This sludge can not only shorten the life of the fuel pump but, buggers up injectors and other things as well.

This is why there is a huge market for 'fuel system cleaners' due to the practice of retaining old fuel in the tank due to the 'top up' mentality.

I my rather long experience of doing this over a few decades, but I think my explanation hasn't been put very clearly.

So to clarify. The concept of running the tank 'down' doesn't mean you run it down to vapours, thats pretty silly. But, running the tank down to a safe level ensures you have litte 'old fuel' retained in the tank and ensures better aggitation of fine particals that may settle to cause a sediment sludge. :)

Yeah but you need to keep the injectors clean regardless... so in the end, dont run your car dry but dont have that "old" fuel sitting there for years as well :banana:

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Alright guys, I've got good odds the motor survives due to a majority of spare parts. Who's taking bets on clutch, who's on transmission, and who's go diff? Happy to also take bets on if it still overheats in traffic or not 😛     Car looks amazing by the way. I've never been a fan of R34 rears, so really, I don't think any body kit etc solves that for myself, but the front end looks amazing!
    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...