Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 895
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

OK, I have some good news. I emailed Ray Hall about the knock control and this is what he said :/

Hmm I think my ECU choice is now cemented :O

awesome news... except for those who already bought one :wave: hopefully it can be updated

Well I made up my mind quickly and got a GTR plug-in board fitted to my Stagea 260RS last week by Mark at Godzilla Motorsport. For some reason with the stock ECU my Stagea had a rough idle that was very lean. As soon as Mark fitted the Vipec the idle came good :P He then fitted a boost control valve (using the wiring to the stock boost solenoid) and tuned it to run 13psi. All up the tuning only took 2-3 hours and went quite smoothly. In the end it was producing 250HP @ 13psi with a conservative tune (~11.8:1 AFRs up in the revs). This is my daily, so I want it to be reliable. The only other mods to the car are dump-back 3" exhaust with 2.5" compliance cat (even running stock airbox). There were a few small differences with the A/C wiring in the 260RS compared to the GTR, but these were easy to fix. Oh yeah, I'm running a MAFless tune and was able to wire a switch to one of the Vipec's digital inputs to trigger high or low boost. Low boost is 8psi, high is 13. You can see from the dyno sheet that the Vipec holds the boost welll at 13psi and has minimal overshoot.

The car idles nicely, starts first time in the morning and has no problem idling with the A/C on. It sounds much nicer than before and revs smoothly. It certianly pulls much harder than before. I noticed a huge difference up in the revs.

Thanks heaps to Mark and the guys at Godzilla.

For some reason my crappy work computer doesn't have javascript and I can't attach the dynosheet. You can get it here

http://www.justmurph.com/willy/Stagea/Dyno...021-10-2008.jpg

Dyno video: http://www.justmurph.com/willy/Stagea/P1030318.MOV

chalon: No news from Ray about the knock control amplifier. I didn't worry about it. Mark did a conservative tune, so I'm not too concerned. I can always add it later on. You can download the Vipec software and play with the ECU yourself. The software seems pretty straight forward to use.

Thanks. Looks like you're happy with your results. Happy cruising! :P

I'm concerned about the quality of fuel, and also the effects of high temperature. Sometimes when you go for a drive out in the country there isn't 98 octane fuel readily available. Combine this with high temperatures and I'd be a lot less worried if there was knock compensation in the ECU. I agree though, it's probably not a huge concern initially and can be added later.

Did you have to order the boost control valve separately as an option? I don't think I did, and I would like my Vipec to hand boost control as well. It's neater having everything in one unit. Less clutter. Have you got yours running in closed loop mode, or is this not available in the firmware yet?

Did you have to order the boost control valve separately as an option? I don't think I did, and I would like my Vipec to hand boost control as well. It's neater having everything in one unit. Less clutter. Have you got yours running in closed loop mode, or is this not available in the firmware yet?

Mark installed a Mac valve for boost control. It's not a Vipec option, but I think a commonly available valve. It's installed neatly in place of the factory boost control solenoid using the stock loom :P

I'm running open-loop boost control. It would be interesting to see how closed loop goes. Oh yeah, it has an overboost cut, too. I was happy to see this feature :D

Edited by BoostedBarge

Alright i have read on there that the vipec is just a re branded link/adptronic(SP?)

i got this from the evo site by ray hall himself

"Hello Everyone,

When I stopped selling, promoting and supporting the Autronic product, I went looking for a replacement, as many of my old Autronic dealers wanted to stay with what ever I was selling. After some months of negotiations with a few company's I settled on one of them. They agreed to build me "new" ECU under by own brand name. They also were willing to build them to my specifications. After many years with Autronic I knew exactly what I required based on years of requests from customers. As many of my Vipec dealers had only worked with Autronic ECU in the past, it was important that the ECU used the same fuel control stragtery software, had QuickTune (Autotune) and used many of the same keystrokes.

The Vipec is not a rebadged Autronic or LinkPlus G3. It is a totally new range of ECU. We plan to make a range of plugin ECU for the EVO1 to 8 and the EVO9. The plugin for the EVO4 to 8 will be available next week. This is based on the V44, with extra injector and auxiliary outputs, plus more analog and digital inputs. It is what some have called a V64."

Alright i have read on there that the vipec is just a re branded link/adptronic(SP?)

i got this from the evo site by ray hall himself

The Vipec is not a rebadged Autronic or LinkPlus G3. It is a totally new range of ECU.

I think you misread his post then.

I need to make my mind up about this ecu in the next couple of days, so is everyone whos had the v44 plugin ecu installed happy with it? Anything good bad?

I'm happy with it. Can't really fault it.. I guess if you were rally worried about the waste spark then that might be a downside, but it makes no difference on a street car like mine.

the waste spark is no issue . split fire coils , and for big hp cars add a hks twin power ignition amp....

hope this helps...

cheers, mark

godzilla motorsport ( bris VIPEC dealer) ph 38904488

I'm happy with it. Can't really fault it.. I guess if you were rally worried about the waste spark then that might be a downside, but it makes no difference on a street car like mine.

ive got an r32 gtr n1s, boost control and a vipec ecu, thinking about getting my tuner to turn on launch control, not shore what to expect and also where to set it. ie rpm v boost. has anyone set this up on the vipec v66

I have my launch control set at 3500 and it seems to be a nice compromise between wheel spin and bogging down off the line...

Thats in a rear wheel drive though - every car is going to be different so just have a play and work out what feels good in your car

Edited by dano4127

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
×
×
  • Create New...