Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 question i have that im gona send an email away is if i get the v88 and i get it tuned for the neo motor and i put a different motor in like a 26 can i load a 26 map into it later and tune that or i have to get another ecu.

  • Replies 895
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

can anyone confirm that the v44 plugin will run low impedence injectors without using a resistor pack?

I have heard they from different people that they will but have also read you need a resistor pack.

Anyone done this yet?

Vipec V44 plug-in manual:

GTR models are fitted with LOW impedance injectors run via factory fitted ballast resistors. This ECU has been designed to be used with HIGH impedance (greater than 6 Ohms) injectors. Ballast resistors must be wired if low impedance injectors are to be used. This means that the ECU is plug-in compatible with factory fitted injector/ballast combinations on all models.

with the amp or with the figures in the knock map?

with the amp. i'm keen to know how people are setting up the knock response threshold since it's hard to know what knock sounds like for a given engine unless you can produce it. ie no point having the knock function set at a threshold such that the thing is rattling away but the ecu does nothing because the knock severity at which it acts only occurs when the conrod exits the block.

unless of course it's a noise filter like the Turbo XS Knocklight.

would also be nice if they could find a way to use the standard knock sensors on the GTR.

with the amp. i'm keen to know how people are setting up the knock response threshold since it's hard to know what knock sounds like for a given engine unless you can produce it. ie no point having the knock function set at a threshold such that the thing is rattling away but the ecu does nothing because the knock severity at which it acts only occurs when the conrod exits the block.

unless of course it's a noise filter like the Turbo XS Knocklight.

would also be nice if they could find a way to use the standard knock sensors on the GTR.

it uses the standard sensors, the plugin and the V44 need an amp/signal filter so that the input is 0-5v without much random signal noise where as the V88 has that built into the unit.

Scooby....

Ear muffs/det cans. :geek:

i know how you listen for knock, what i'm asking is how you set the knock correction point if you don't know what knock freqs are for a given engine.

if it was standard practice to get the engine to 'just' start knocking and set that as the threshold for the ecu to trigger knock control there would be no question, i just don't intend getting my car tuned that way.

Turbo XS claim that once the procedure of calibrating the Knocklight to the freq range of normal engine noise for a given engine - ie without knock - is complete, it recognises freqs outside that as knock. they are confident that the unit will pick it up correctly because knock freqs are fairly unique. in other words it detects freqs outside those parameters as knock, although the suggestion is that knock freq range is extremely narrow. i'm not advocating their approach but i can see it's plausible as they use the parameters of an particular engine's unique freqs.

another example; the stock GTR ecu has knock control but if you use it on an RB26/30, which will have a different knock freq to a stock RB26, there is no guarantee it will be effective as what it hears when a 26/30 knocks itself to death might be different to what it has been calibrated to recognise as knock.

hope that makes sense.

just not sure how it's done with the Vipec.

Edited by Scooby

With the vipec can you select high or low impedance injectors?

Also just wondering considering the current group buy on the Haltech E11V2 @ $1545

Why would you choose the Vi-pec over the Haltech?

Those who have the v44 whats your idle like? Now I have the injectors and hks turbo on, the idle seems to hunt a lot, where before it was almost flat as a tack? Is it worth doing some data logging?

Those who have the v44 whats your idle like? Now I have the injectors and hks turbo on, the idle seems to hunt a lot, where before it was almost flat as a tack? Is it worth doing some data logging?

your engine didnt eat turbo bits did it?...probably only a simple air leak though...are the injectors sealed where they seat on the head flange?

your engine didnt eat turbo bits did it?...probably only a simple air leak though...are the injectors sealed where they seat on the head flange?

My engine may of eaten some small turbo bits, compression test came back regular no cylinder vastly different to the other., some small metal flakes were found around the intake and around the IM. Intercooler piping etc was all cleaned out. What do you mean by are the injectors sealed?

Wasn't doing this for the few mins I had the car idling after the turbo blew.That was with the old injectors

thx

My engine may of eaten some small turbo bits, compression test came back regular, some small metal flakes were found around the intake and around the IM. Intercooler piping etc was all cleaned out. What do you mean by are the injectors sealed?

thx

they have small rubber insulators that seal the injectors to the head...its quite common to not seat them correctly allowing a small amount of air to enter the system which is making the idle hunt.

Frankly I wouldn't know, I have the software to monitor the ecu, but I havent had the chance to use it.

edit: I'll have a look tomorrow to see what I can around the injectors, thx for the tip.

Will see if I can do some datalogging of the ecu on friday as well.

thx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
    • Hmmm interesting. Mine is the exact same and clearly the right one.  The mystery of the engine oil being full after 3.5-4L continues 
    • Yes I as well would like to find out where I could get some of the seat material with the red or blue small squares in it
×
×
  • Create New...