Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Just want to confirm I got the correct braided brake lines as they look completely different to whats on the car.

I've attached a pic of what the R32 GTR ones look like from the Markk group buy on ADR approved lines.

Is this the correct ones for an R33?

They don't look anything like whats on there now so I'm not sure about fitting them on....

Has anyone fitted there R33 GTR's ones?

Are these the correct lines?

Apologies for the terrible pictures, I don't want to take it out of the packaging if it is the wrong one....

Regards,

Gareth

post-13527-1210156538_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1210156778_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1210156799_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1210156814_thumb.jpg

post-13527-1210156842_thumb.jpg

Yeah, i received the incorrect ones, but it was no ones fault. Ive got a 93 r32 gtst M spec which should use the gtr ones pictured above, but it uses normal r32 ones which do not have the 'V' shape for the front lines. Ring Goran at Brakewest if you have any further problems. His customer service is excellent.

Shaun.

They are the right hoses mate.

PM sent with further details.

Cheers

Thanks a lot Mark.

I think my current ones must be aftermarket then, I have a 1 piece brake hose on the front with a bracket there to hold it, it doesn't look like these particular lines will be able to connect.

I might need some other parts to put these in.

Does anyone have a picture of what the factory R33 GTR lines look like?

I'll try and post pictures of what my ones look like tomorrow.

I created this thread to confirm that they are standard lines.

But still no idea how to fit them, does anyone have an install guide for the braided brake lines?

Or any tips on how you installed them? I can't see how they would connect the existing system doesn't have block connectors on it at all.

Thanks,

Gareth

if they are the correct lines you should just unbolt your old ones from the caliper on one end and from the hard metal line at the other end, then install the new lines in their place. same process for front and rear. if that wont work then you have the wrong lines.

I don't know which thread to respond in, so this is a quote from the other one.

I can't see what your problem is. The braided kit only replaces the 2 rubber hoses, the standard steel hoses remain.

On the front, the block bolts to the upright.

One braided hose (from memory the longer one) goes from the block to the inner guard where it joins the steel tube at the right angle bracket on the inner guard.

The other braided hose (from memory the shorter one) goes from the block to the joint for the steel tube that goes to the calliper.

On the rear, the block end of the braided hose bolts to the steel hose that goes to the calliper.

The other end of the braided hose joins the steel tube at the right angle bracket on the inner guard .

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...