Jump to content
SAU Community

Real Quick Q

DjeMz

By DjeMz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

It will fit but not completely.

The small 10mm bolt hole at the top will not line up and you will have to fill it with silicon or something similar. I recommend 3 bond.

This topic has been covered 1 billion times. Try to use the search function next time.

Cheers, Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218253-real-quick-q/#findComment-3852333
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
what about putting a 10mm bolt in there covered with loctite and then grind the head off so its flat, should seal ok and never come loose.

There is absolutely no point in doing that. Coolant does not leak out of the hole. The bolt is there to provide clamping force to the sealing surface. Without it there you can run the risk of it leaking. Usually a fair while down the track but it is still possible.

It fits....use it if you want to. It probably won't ever leak but make sure you fill the hole up with silicon. And don't come crying on here if it does leak as you have been told it may do so.

That is all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218253-real-quick-q/#findComment-3855361
Share on other sites
ms2606 Newbie

ms2606

Posted
Posted
There is absolutely no point in doing that. Coolant does not leak out of the hole. The bolt is there to provide clamping force to the sealing surface. Without it there you can run the risk of it leaking. Usually a fair while down the track but it is still possible.

It fits....use it if you want to. It probably won't ever leak but make sure you fill the hole up with silicon. And don't come crying on here if it does leak as you have been told it may do so.

That is all.

as a mechanic I suggest against it just buy the proper pump, however if money is that big of problem using either 3bond super sealant (which can only be bought from specialist stores/trade suppliers) or "Ultra Blue" sealer which is readily available from supercheap/auto one or and good spare parts shops apply a thin but full smear of thesealer on booth sides of the gasket and make sure the new pump and surfce of the motor are clean and dry fit the pump with even force over all bolts and allow a few hours set before fitting pulley beltsand fan that should be enough and as suggested earlier fill the left over hole with sealant and allow to set before refilling coolant and running motor

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218253-real-quick-q/#findComment-3855391
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • sonicii
      Lower A arm Skyline v35

      By sonicii · Posted

      The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Red Sky II
      Looking for autoelectrician in Perth who can do the OEM to double din stereo upgrade.

      By Red Sky II · Posted

      Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...