Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im wrecking this r32 gtst. im located in brisbane and all parts listed are available plus many more just sms or pm me what parts you want. the car is complete so everything is for sale. contact make on 0423 849 355

ALL GEAR WAS PUT ON IN JAP SO ALL QUALITY PARTS!

Genuine Dmax Carbon fibre bonnet VGC $1000

RB20DET motor with SS manifold 120 000 kms absolute perfect condition blows no smoke 114 000 km (major service done 10 000 km ago) $1300 (no coil packs) will seperate ss manifold

Front Tein Ha series coliovers $450

Rb20 Gearbox VGC $450

Short shift kit VGC $150

Dash - perfect $200

GTR Replica front bar $150 one mount has to be re fibreglassed on no biggy

Fuel tank $150

Door cards perfect condition $75 ea

Front switches $75 drivers 30 passenger

Sparco Steering wheel $50

Turbo Timer $50

Windshield $150

Front seats $150 Pair

Roof lining $50

Front guards $120 pair

Headlights $80

Indicators clear $80 pair

split fire coil packs $400

HKS split dump front pipe and exhaust $550

Tension rod bar $120

Solid pineapples $100

2 way lsd and housing $750 (brand unknown)

Hicas lock kit $150 ( full replacement kit for lines and everything)

GTR brakes (so i am told will confirm when i pull car apart) $700

Castor arms $150

Doors Drivers(some damage) $125 passenger GC $150

K&N pod $50

Viper alarm system $80

PLUS MUCH MUCH MORE! just ask and will pm or sms! thanks heaps will have more photos and a video of the car running as it is in perfect condition when computer isnt being gay

Mike 0423 849 355

post-17389-1210394305_thumb.jpgpost-17389-1210394407_thumb.jpgpost-10298-1124278144.jpgpost-17389-1210394659_thumb.jpgpost-17389-1210394843_thumb.jpg:

post-17389-1210394515_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218580-wrecking-r32-brisbane/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

not selling the volks as of yet, but will let you know later if we do, $150 without the bov on it, goes through stock holes, its good quality, do you by any chance have the stock bit of peipe from the turbo to the side mount ic?, cheers

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/F-...93#entry3776693

interested in trades for bonnet? looks like it will fit gtr. just added some non car parts and also got a tonne of new pc games for trade

Brakes are not GTR just GTS-T :(

Gearbox - SOLD

Castor arms - SOLD

Headlights - SOLD

catback exhaust - SOLD

radiator - SOLD

air filter and airflow meter - SOLD

short shift kit - SOLD

Edited by sly32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...