Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^^^very well said^^^

Nugget im sorry, but my best friend is one of the better drivers i know and he himself tells me his car is a joke (speed wise). so im not biased u could call him if u want, its a fact the ca engined silvia's r better suited to racing old men in wheelchairs.

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i aint biased man, i speak the truth, look at the stats as well! i beat a 180sx running 1 bar boost b4, the guy thought i had a turbo, ive run almost even with 200sx's b4 as well. i tink the silvia owners would be quite biased as for skyline NA owners, well we just speak the truth!

i cruise with silvia's (s13,s14,s15 various mods) on a weekly basis, and have had friends with the cars in question.

If your a damn good driver, then you wont get beaten so badly whilst in a Ca-T. Those Ca's rev high, their redlines are high, but they simply dont produce enough tourque at those higher revs and simply run out of puff above 6ish.

If anything, im a bit bias towards S13's rather then skylines.

I used to own a manual ca18de silvia. I prefer my r32 alot better, beter build quality and turbo aswell. However the ca is an awsome engine, So strong, and so cheap. A ca has so much potential, Not saying that sr aren't good, they r gr8 but there's something about a Ca that make me prefer it. It just better built. Neither though it's got nowhere the power in comparison in stock format.

Ca just seems smoother and just like to rev's it self way up int the high rpm. I've saw my ca go all the way to 8400 rpm, and i think it could gone even more. I ran out of bituman. They just go hard.

  • 8 months later...

i've driven both the sr and ca silvias and obviously my car. there is only a bit of a differences off the line between the sr and the ca (sr is more torquey, obviously). they both go like shit compared to the n/a skyline though. its no camparision. the silvia is better for drift though, imo, due to the chassis....

Hey guys,

Sorry to kill the mood in here but I own an s13 Silvia (the one with the sr20det engine).

I'm assuming a N/A skyline is slower than a turbo skyline right? Because I have raced countless amounts of turbo skylines, r32s, r33s, r34s and have not yet been beaten by anyone i've met on the road.

The only skyline that has beaten me is one I already knew: a good friends r33 gtst that has had about 15k spent on engine mods.

I've had very very close races, neck to neck.. but nothing has pulled away from me yet.

I REPEAT: No turbo skyline i've met on the road other than of course GTRs have beaten me from 0-180km/hr on the street. I am running stock boost.

I have driven a N/A skyline, N/a silvia, ca18det silvia, turbo skylines.. borrringg.

My car would not be considered heavily modified, but I do know that at a stock 164kw, 1200kgs and after a 3" exhaust, air filter.. your looking at close to 170-180kw.. What kind of drugs are nismoman18 smoking? A NA whale beating an sr20det running 1 bar? Was the guy behind the wheel of the 180sx unconscious? and rolling backwards?

So my answer to the topic would be, yes you could probably beat any S13 except for an sr20det s13, which will smoke your sorry ass.

Lets look at the quarter mile times on the stock vehicles:

NISSAN Silvia S13 1.8L Non-turbo = 17.20 sec

NISSAN Silvia/180sx S13 1.8L Turbo = 15.08 sec

NISSAN Silvia S13 2L Non-turbo = 16.50 sec

NISSAN Silvia/180sx S13 2L Turbo = 14.30 sec

NISSAN Skyline R32 GTS-T = 14.63 sec

NISSAN Skyline R33 GT-ST-25T = 14.39 sec

I dont have times for the N/A skyline anywhere, but I imagine if the R33 GTST does a 14.39 we can all agree that the NA's are slower?

ps. My next car is looking like its going to be an r32 GTR. I am not a skyline hater :D

i will have to agree with pentae on what he said. i drive an NA r32 with rb25de in it (yes, they do exist). Its much lighter than the 33s and i still lose out to silvias with sr20det. mods i have are the usual air pod and catback exhaust.

i am sure that they are not nicknamed the baby gozilla engines for nothing as compared to the powerful rb26dett.

it happened to me and i'm facting it.

I've been to the drags a number of times and seen N/A skylines and silvia's drag, to be honest there's not that much difference in the times. The silvia's (SR20 DE) will do consistant low 16's for the 1/4, I have seen a couple of guys get them into the high 15's.

The Rb25DE guys had times ranging from mid 15's to high 16's.

But from what I have seen is the silvia seems to get off the mark quicker and the RB engines have better top end power.

RS13 K's weigh 1170kg and have 200hp 200lbft, this equates to 151kw and 274Nm, not the 164kw stated. This is also using japanese 101ron fuel. using 98 ron its down to around 145kw stock. Sure it is well known that the SR responds better to modifications, but when the R33 GTS-t has 170-180kW standard on 98 ron, and only weighs ~150kg heavier, these two cars are very close in stock form.

RS13 Silvia K's power/weight=7.767kg/Kw

R33 GTS-t power/weight=7.444kg/Kw

This debate is pointless, silvia guys will say silvia, skyline boys will say skyline and a few unbias opinions in between. A skyline is a classic sports saloon, a silvia is a disposable sports car. Depends what you are looking for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
    • Cheers thanks for the help mate I’ll see how we go with that one 
×
×
  • Create New...