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Downshift Or Coast In Neutral When Coming To Stop Light?

Phatboy
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Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

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Posted (edited)

Just wondering what people do when they are coming up to a stop light and anticipate stopping there for a minute.

Downshift or brake to idle rpm and then coast in neutral (what I'm doing now). Basically I figured that clutches are more expensive than brake pads.

Also I have heard differing things regarding skipping gears on downshifts putting more strain on your transmission? I thought that as long as the revs fall within your safe range for the gear you intend to go into, it shouldn't matter how many gears you skip. Is this true or not?

Thanks.

Edited by Phatboy
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msnismo Grand Master

msnismo

Posted
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Half half really, depends how lazy I am !!

Although since the new engine went in, its usually neutral........

I've been told the skipping gears going up can be bad for the box (synchros) .... not sure re downshift though.... assuming prolly the same. This could be a complete load of crap though...?!?

vinnie32GTS4 Mentor

vinnie32GTS4

Posted
Posted

yer i usually down shift but thats how i was taught to drive i think lol

cant remember who said it but i think someone said to downshift coz u save ur brakes so u dnt have to change em as often but meh

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Coast up to the stop, with system in gear (no need to down change) until it requires the clutch being disengaged.

There is no wear in the clutch while it is fully engaged. The wear occurs on "take-up" from a standing start, because you need to slip it a bit as it engages and transfers power to the gearbox. And there should be minimal wear in the brakes, because most of the stopping is achieved by friction in the drivetrain.

Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

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I heard that there was wear in the clutch when fully engaged even when not changing gears, and that's the reason why you shouldn't coast with it depressed, instead put it in neutral. May be wrong, just what I heard from a few people.

burna Newbie

burna

Posted
Posted

It depends on distance to the lights when they change.

If I'm close, then clutch in and brake.

If far away, I downshift through the gears to second but use rev matching to minimise/eliminate clutch and synchro wear. (Needs a longer space to slow down than dropping the revs to idle and braking with clutch)

ZCR Mentor

ZCR

Posted
Posted

i double clutch, heal toe or flick it into neutral, skip gears sometimes as well, depends what mood i'm in really

i got taught to use the brakes when slowing down cos gearboxs cost more then brakes

Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

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Well the way I see it:

Downshifting.

Pros:

1. You have more control of the car, can accelerate quickly if needed.

2. It sounds better

Cons:

1. More wear/tear on clutch/synchros

2. If you engine brake without hitting the brakes, the guy behind you may not have noticed you have slowed down as your brake lights haven't lighted up.

The pros/cons of neutral would be the opposite obviously.

Shaun O Enthusiast

Shaun O

Posted
Posted

When I first started driving I would downshift coming up to a stop but only because it felt more controlled and it sounds cool too.

But then I got lazy and also figured the thing about brakepads & clutch wear and just coasted until just before the car needs more revs and neutraled it.

Edit: ^^ agree with the guy above in regards to when you engine brake, people behind you can't see you slowing down as easily.

madbung Grand Master

madbung

Posted
Posted

Many years ago I was taught to downshift and brake...The reason behind it is when the car is in gear you have more control over the car with engine braking ect, coasting less control. If you've ever driven anything heavy like a fully laden truck you'd never consider coasting.

Also i'm on year 4 with both brakes and clutch on this car(app 42k on em), so I won't be changing my driving style....also sounds cooler :blink:

The cost of a decent h-d clutch, compared to h-d pads and quality rotors? who'd like to call that one? :blush:

We could also throw in the occasional calliper rebuild or 2 just bump cost a bit..

Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

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Clutch plus install is about $1-1.5k I thought.

Stockish brake pads are like what, $200 a set? Rotors are about $600-800 a set? But you wouldn't need to replace your rotors unless you do a lot of hard braking and they warped would you? ie., track use. In that case you would need to replace your clutch before anything else anyway.

I don't intend to do much track driving, and brake pads should last around 30k I think, so I am happy to sacrifice them rather than my clutch. And I'm too lazy to downshift (main reason) :blush: My clutch has been changed about 1 year ago to a Nismo copper twin plate clutch, so I think with my driving style it should last many many years to come.

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

If it's wet I put the clutch in and rip the handbrake on then hold the car at a 45 degree angle as I approach the lights. Tyres don't wear in the wet, and since the rears are locked and I'm not on the pedal I'm not using any brakes at all!

(I'm not serious, btw)

normally downshift at least to 3rd, and coast in-gear until i need to put the clutch in. it's better to be in gear, you'll get docked during a driving test if you neutral + coast, because if something happens and you need to put your foot down you're going to get a whole lot of revs and not much else.

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted

I think its illegal to roll in neutral (in victoria)..

What i do is just stay in gear as im coming up to the lights and clutch in as soon as the car comes to a stop. By downshifting you're just revving the engine more and burning more fuel..

Downshifting is good if you are rolling to the lights which are going to change green before you come to a stop.

madbung Grand Master

madbung

Posted
Posted
Clutch plus install is about $1-1.5k I thought.

Stockish brake pads are like what, $200 a set? Rotors are about $600-800 a set? But you wouldn't need to replace your rotors unless you do a lot of hard braking and they warped would you? ie., track use. In that case you would need to replace your clutch before anything else anyway.

I don't intend to do much track driving, and brake pads should last around 30k I think, so I am happy to sacrifice them rather than my clutch. And I'm too lazy to downshift (main reason) :) My clutch has been changed about 1 year ago to a Nismo copper twin plate clutch, so I think with my driving style it should last many many years to come.

Ahh so you're comparing a nice "brand name" clutch against the price of stock rotors and pads...same quality pls ;)

Probably more chance of warp/hotspots from using the coast/brake method than a combo of gearing and brakes...less load on the brakes = less heatsoak through pads/rotors and calipers.

I wonder If where people live or learnt to drive has an influence on there method of stopping ie:mountain areas compared to plains dwellers..I think It might.

But hey each to their own.. Whatever suit your stylez !!! :)

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