Jump to content
SAU Community

Installing Tomei Procams, Gears, Lifters, Shims And Garrett Turbo,


Recommended Posts

extremely unhappy with the fact that they required such large lashcap style shims 5-6mm+, was easier and cheaper to have JHH convert the hydrolic lifters to solid.

that was the case in the head we went to set it up on anyway.

Edited by Cartman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

extremely unhappy with the fact that they required such large lashcap style shims 5-6mm+, was easier and cheaper to have JHH convert the hydrolic lifters to solid.

that was the case in the head we went to set it up on anyway.

Very frustrating to read these threads and not get the ending. Did the Tomei man get his engine to run properly, make decent power?

I take it you would be recommending Poncams as a simpler job with good power for the street?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very frustrating to read these threads and not get the ending. Did the Tomei man get his engine to run properly, make decent power?

I take it you would be recommending Poncams as a simpler job with good power for the street?

Really depends on the setup and what your aiming for. if you want to do the solid lifter conversion while rebuilding the motor i highly reccomend getting JHH to do it for you great workmanship and excellant porting.

however i wouldnt reccomend the solid lifter conversion if you arent goin to take advantage of having it done.

Edited by Cartman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

my understanding is when going to a solid lifter from a hydraulic is that you will require new Valve's as they are an extra 5 mm longer to suit a solid conversion and take up the extra spacing or shim thickness required.

I went through all this when i installed hks 256 deg in and 264 deg ex cams with upgraded valve springs.

My lifters bleed out after a while when the engine is not running from the extra tension in the springs. I explained this to my engine builder who at the time has not done any upgrade's on a 25 b4. I was going to convert to solids to try and illiminate the proble but then engine was together and thats when i found out that you require different lenth valves to suit

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What was the cost for the conversion FineLine??? Also any idea of freight costs from Tassie to Bribane??

Dont hold a gun to my head because i really cant recall the pricing but i believe it was somewhere around the 6/700 dollar range for the conversion, My bill was a fair bit more than that because i did some o/s valves, heavier springs and some major port work to boot.

It worked out far less expensive than going to a 26 head because i already had a greddy plenum and himount manifold etc to suit the 25.

Plus throw in the cost of buying a 26 head and you soon realise its very good value to convert the 25 head to solids.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dont hold a gun to my head because i really cant recall the pricing but i believe it was somewhere around the 6/700 dollar range for the conversion, My bill was a fair bit more than that because i did some o/s valves, heavier springs and some major port work to boot.

It worked out far less expensive than going to a 26 head because i already had a greddy plenum and himount manifold etc to suit the 25.

Plus throw in the cost of buying a 26 head and you soon realise its very good value to convert the 25 head to solids.

Sounds like you have done what im planning on. Was he good to deal with? Any chance I could have a spec list of your setup and how much it can flow? Am now looking at bigger cams but not sure whats "to big". It will be on a 25/30 with T51r and a 8200 - 8500 rev limit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like you have done what im planning on. Was he good to deal with? Any chance I could have a spec list of your setup and how much it can flow? Am now looking at bigger cams but not sure whats "to big". It will be on a 25/30 with T51r and a 8200 - 8500 rev limit.

both john & will @ jhh are both champs. john is semi retired now i believe so its mainly will and another bloke there.

will is just like john though, he recently did a big head for me and it came out spot on how i wanted it, perfect

noels (fineline) only got baby poncams in his head, he also runs a 35r .82rear, i'd be looking at 260-280deg 10.5+ lift for ur setup, but depends on how much coin u want to throw at it. the head i got done has 1mm valves both sides, dual springs, ti retainers, bronze gudes, big port work, intake 270 10.8 exhaust 280 10.8. its on a 26/30 with a t51r kai, rev limit will be where it stops making power. no numbers yet as its waiting engine mounts to go back in

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I see what you mean Cartman. Just by sitting the type B spring and solid lifter in the head its easy to see that its going to need a fairly decent sized shim in there. Might just put them aside for another build that may come along lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm still not sure what you are trying to acheive, but I wanted to clarify something about Lithium's response to your question...   Only within certain limits. All of the examples Lithium gave were of detuning for a particular reason. Before the engine/turbo/wastegate combination has hit full boost, you can't increase it....the wastegate is shut and the turbo is pushing as hard as it can Once the combination has hit the target (controlled) boost, you generally have full control over whether it makes more or less boost, because it is being limited/reduced from its potential. This is generally done by controlling the wastegate In the top end, with an undersized turbo, it is possible you won't get to your target boost anymore if the turbo is choking up. In this case you cannot increase boost any more without changing the setup. No change in cost compared to any decent build, other than tuning time to get the engine to make less power than it is able to at a certain point
    • Welcome.  Glad to hear that you have gained some knowledge that has helped you. I believe the only fix for the power steer belt is an electric conversion with a Holden astra pump. If you get a chance, post pics of your car, please. 🙂
    • Just ordered those bosses, hopefully that does the trick thank you very much everyone for your replies it's really appreciated  
    • to have this type of adjustment possible with a curve as I wish, what budget (engine) should be planned?  
    • People still have Skylines? I thought they're non-existent now. 
×
×
  • Create New...