Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think you need a rear bar... seems silly doing skirts and front, and then using the stock rear, just my opinion.

for ten grand spent wouldnt u want a little more than 230? my brothes manual r33 series 2, full kit, custom paint job, 220 rear kw cost him 11,000 all up.

which he has just spent 4 grand on new stuff and now has 260.

but anyway back on topic, nice looking car :P

is that bn front bar & side skirts or theyre something else?

you need to lose the matt black bonnet hehe but everything else is :P

it is a final konnexion kit was the firs one to bye it in aus for the 32 about 2 1/2 years ago

And am happy with the power it is all on a safe tune so im not going to hard on the engine. Every thing that we put in was rated at around the 1000hp mark so its all nice and strong thats were all the money went.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
×
×
  • Create New...