Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

don't listen to him..

yes you can replace with just one.

you'll need to make some sort of adapter up though.

I'll buy your shitty stock ones for $50.

that should be enough to have a custom, shiny metal adapter plate for your single atmo bov.

I would imagine just fitting one and blocking the other off as if you wanted to do the flutter it would work. I haven't actually seen the piping of the GTR and thought about it to really say.

Edit: Just realised there was no point to this post. :P

Edited by adam-__-

You can do that no worries, but remember its one pipe going into two bov's. Not two pipes, so all the air will just be fed to the one bov. You usually put two on as a better attempt to vent all the air. Putting one atmo bov on will just make it work harder and possibly not vent enough air so the excess would be sent back to the turbo charger and you would experience the flutter noise.

thanks for the info guys. I dont want to change the bovs by choice its just that i have bought a hard pipe kit for my gtr and the pipeing kit does not have provisions for the bov's to be plumbed back so my standard bov's are venting to the atmosphere at the moment and i think this is why i have poor idel and boost response takes a little longer to come on

thanks for the info guys. I dont want to change the bovs by choice its just that i have bought a hard pipe kit for my gtr and the pipeing kit does not have provisions for the bov's to be plumbed back so my standard bov's are venting to the atmosphere at the moment and i think this is why i have poor idel and boost response takes a little longer to come on

Id say your problem is more likely attributed to the fact you're venting to atmo, not that your using stock BOV to do so.

IE stock or aftermarket, without a retune your still going to have the same problem

GTR stock BOV's are better in every way than almost every aftermarket BOV I have ever tried. It's a 99.9% guarantee that it won't matter what BOV you use, you will still have the same problem.

Cheers

Gary

if your car still uses AFM, then they have to be plumbed back in.

the factory ones do not stay shut at idle.

so essentially, you have an air leak.

un-metered air entering your engine.

a:f mixture is screwed and you get idle/stalling issues etc.

If you are still running air-flow meters, you need to plumb the BOVs back to make the car run properly. no ifs, no buts.

If you have MAP fuelling, feel free to go nuts with BOVs that vent to atmosphere.

there are people who have atmo venting bovs on AFM equipt GTR's with no problems.

but there is always some tuning to help it.

I'm not sure of the exact parameter that needs to be adjusted but it would have something to do with overrun fueling or throttle closed fueling or something that describes what the ecu does when throttle is shut.

basically, you want to remove fuel at that point so that when the atmo bov vents the air out of the system, then the ecu doesn't inject the fuel it was going to, that would have mixed with the air that was vented.

  • 4 weeks later...

My GTR came over with twin atmo Blitz BOVs, no major issues - just runs a lil rich between gear changes, but I would of kept the stockers if I had a chance.

btw the newer hks ssqv for gtr comes with the adapter/replacement pipe to suit single atmo bov.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (Rb25det intake manifold) I’m having a hell of a time trying to find the full part or part number of this coolant hardline so far I was given these (Below) but they aren’t what I’m looking for and was told it’s the IAR or aac valve but that doesn’t seem to be it either. If someone could point me in the right direction it’d be greatly appreciated. Or if anyone has it for sale that’d be great too. I have recently purchased a greddy manifold and I can’t seem to find my old one to pull it off.  (Front Heater Return / Water Pipe (under intake): Primary part: 14053‑21U10 (front return pipe assembly for R33/R34 RB25DET) Alternative listing: 14053‑21U00 (same pipe, sometimes interchangeably referenced)   Heater Feed Pipe: Listed as 14075‑04U00 or feed-related variant 14053‑AG500)    
    • This sounds cool. But, as per usual, anything really complicated like that, that I take on, constitutes a steep learning curve that I never actually "learn". I just get it working, install it and start using it. Then, when it breaks a few months later, I've got no memory of what I did, how I did it, or even the bloody IP address I gave it. I'm having more or less exactly that problem right now. My Proxmox machine was discovered to be non-responsive, and the VMs on it were ditto. Power cycle it to a stream of loud Dell beep codes - which was unpopular at midnight, I can tell you. Move it to the lounge room so I can HDMI it to the TV for a screen, see the boot messages complaining about the /PVE/data having all sorts of LVM problems, saying it needs to be fixed manually. And I'm like....great. How am I going to work out what I need to do? At least it wasn't the stupid Silicon Power SSD shat itself. Mental note for all readers - DO NOT BUY SP SSDS! They are shit. I have had one take out an entire VM setup already, and this one could have done the same. Maybe it actually has. Cheap Chinesium shitbaskets. I won't cheap out again, even on play projects with no budget. Because my time budget having to fix shit is worth far more than the cost of proper parts.
    • I do typically agree. These days even the screens most people use have more of a boot time than the main device. However, I've seen an interesting use of the RPi in vehicle, however it involves effectively building your own OS and MBR, as then it boots up exceptionally quickly, as you don't have everything needing to start up, and you can then also run it up as an RTOS, while still having more compute than an Android can give for things like display, and processing. A very huge task that would be though for Duncan, I'm not sure that's his skill set (or Arduino programming and wiring) ha ha. If end goal is definitely just water cooling, Arduino would be the simpler setup especially for a rookie. If he wants extra display stuff though, bashing some code in Python on an RPi may be the better result for both systems.   Unfortunately the new device I'm building at work which runs a display, is too slow of a display for dashboard style purposes. More extreme low power, update only a couple of times a day type system
    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
×
×
  • Create New...